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Poison spyder items @ oconee off road 706 534 9955OPTIC ARMOR WINDOWS all sale now !!!!!!!!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 02-23-2014, 01:13 PM   #30436
zj97ltd
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FLORIDA
Posts: 1,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post

I don't recall... is it a factory 93?
Yes this is a factory 5 speed 93 Laredo. Pretty sweet ride. Sold my 97 Limited to pick this up.

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Unread 02-23-2014, 01:18 PM   #30437
mikebontoft
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Murray, UT
Posts: 245
That would be nice to have. Every other one of my cars is or was a manual. I've always said I wouldn't buy an auto unless it was a V8. So I bought the biggest one I could get. Haha.

(But let's be realistic here... I didn't enjoy burning my clutch every time I wheeled the Yota. So I prefer to burn ATF. It's better that way).
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Unread 02-23-2014, 01:30 PM   #30438
zj97ltd
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FLORIDA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebontoft View Post
That would be nice to have. Every other one of my cars is or was a manual. I've always said I wouldn't buy an auto unless it was a V8. So I bought the biggest one I could get. Haha.

(But let's be realistic here... I didn't enjoy burning my clutch every time I wheeled the Yota. So I prefer to burn ATF. It's better that way).
I'm having a blast with it so far. Noticeably better on gas than the 5.2 but still fun switching gears. I just wanted something that you don't see every day.
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Unread 02-23-2014, 03:30 PM   #30439
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss, MD
Posts: 16,024
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine1994ZJ View Post
Polka, you'll notice a difference for sure!
Made a huge difference when I put one on my wife's ZJ.
I need one for my ZJ now...
I also bought the Energy Suspension sway bar link for a 4" lift to go with it.

You won't be unhappy!
You said it first! It was a noticeable improvement in handling. Takes turns much better and highway speeds are straight as an arrow. I should have done the rear sooner.
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Unread 02-23-2014, 04:03 PM   #30440
Hytek
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Romeoville, IL
Posts: 792
Since I can't find a bumper I figured I'd have some fun with it.
"Franken-niner"
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98 5.9 Limited - IRO 3.5", IRO short arms track bars Bilsteins, Addco, JK wheels, 255-75/17 BFG, Magnaflow, Flowmaster
04 Limited 4.7H.O QD, UC+BB, Bilsteins, 245/75-16 Duratracs Addco sway bar
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Unread 02-23-2014, 04:25 PM   #30441
big98tnzj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: elizabethton, tn
Posts: 801
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
Since I can't find a bumper I figured I'd have some fun with it.
"Franken-niner"
They have plastic welders that can fix that with ease. Just take the bumpdr cover off and flip it over and weld it back together from inside and touch up paint on the outside and yours good to go

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
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Unread 02-23-2014, 04:31 PM   #30442
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stamford, CT / Rochester, NY
Posts: 4,303
Determined that my water leak into the driver's footwell is almost definitely from a sunroof drain. Now I just need to fix it as soon as I get nice enough weather to drop the headliner and a-pillar trim.

Being that it was warm enough and the ground was finally dry enough today, I crawled around under the Jeep and gave it a good once over. And now it's looking like I need to replace my main rear brake line ASAP. It's not leaking yet, but what was previously just surface rust on it is now flaky in one spot. Sadly, the weather is looking like it's probably not going to allow me to DIY this job. I'll have to look around this week and see if I can get a pre-bent line that'll just swap in. If not, I'll have to see what a shop will charge to do it.
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Unread 02-23-2014, 04:34 PM   #30443
970001zj
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hytek View Post
Since I can't find a bumper I figured I'd have some fun with it.
"Franken-niner"
Quote:
Originally Posted by big98tnzj View Post
They have plastic welders that can fix that with ease. Just take the bumpdr cover off and flip it over and weld it back together from inside and touch up paint on the outside and yours good to go

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
nooo this is the thing now its drift tastic brah , such blue , many stitches , very wow

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Unread 02-23-2014, 04:41 PM   #30444
Hytek
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: Romeoville, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big98tnzj View Post

They have plastic welders that can fix that with ease. Just take the bumpdr cover off and flip it over and weld it back together from inside and touch up paint on the outside and yours good to go

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
Thought about that but needed easy and cheap for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 970001zj View Post

nooo this is the thing now its drift tastic brah , such blue , many stitches , very wow

Have no idea what you're talking about...
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98 5.9 Limited - IRO 3.5", IRO short arms track bars Bilsteins, Addco, JK wheels, 255-75/17 BFG, Magnaflow, Flowmaster
04 Limited 4.7H.O QD, UC+BB, Bilsteins, 245/75-16 Duratracs Addco sway bar
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Unread 02-23-2014, 05:53 PM   #30445
txbass06
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 602
Had a weird noise that started Friday morning that I narrowed down to a tensioner pulley or alternator. Lucked out on it being a $16 pulley instead of a $160 alt.

And got my tj bezel installed tonight. Looks a lot better than I was expecting. Had to do a little trimming so the gas cap would sit flush easier but took a total of an hour from start to finish
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Unread 02-23-2014, 06:42 PM   #30446
roughknight69
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Jamestown ny
Posts: 1,833
Yesterday I tore my dash apart and attempted to fix my broken actuator arm. Upon getting ready to put the new one in I realized the small tab that holds the small metal piece of the blend door and rotates it was broken. So I attempted to remove the non broken prince from the blend door and broke said small metal piece in the process. : So I said **** it and put a screw through the top of the heater box and it holds the door completely shut. Allowing all the air to go to either the defrost or face setting. After assembling the actuator and arms back into place, well must not have been the correct because I heard a plastic grinding and the non attached arm that was broken to begin with fall off and now it can't move on its own. But I can shift between defrost and face very easily by moving the plastic arm that controls it just above the drivers foot vent. Ghetto but it works. While the dash was apart I replaced the heater core. In order to do this without taking the whole box out I snipped the tube in the old one and removed it. My new spectra core had rotating tubes that I removed by opening up the 4 pinched metal spots on the core holding the tubes in. Put the core in and re pinched the metal for the tubes. All looked fine and I put the dash mostly back together, Hooked the battery back up and turned it on. (I must say it nice not having your lights flash and etc. when reconnecting the batt. Since I disabled the alarm.)while it running I was messing with the vents and noticed coolant start to flood my pass floor board. I quickly turned it off and in plugged the batt in order to tear through it again. When doing this I noticed that one of the core lines was leaking where it connected to the rubber hoses. The damn old factory clamp wasn't working well enough. : so I put a new clamp on that and took my dash apart to make sure where I took the metal heater core tubes off wasn't leaking and the weren't. Then I cleaned up the coolant mess around the box as best I could. I connected the electric panel on the pass side floor board and turned it on. From what I could tell I couldn't see where any more coolant was leaking. So I put the dash back together and called it a day. I notice that some times a get an ever so slight trickle on the pass side fire wall to the floor board of coolant now, just enough to make a trail but not enough that it pools up. I thing the new clamp isn't tight enough and it dripped slightly when hot or maybe the excess coolant that spilled from before just finding it way down. Either way I'm going to let it go until spring as long as it doesn't get worse. Today I replaced my pass side ball joints and cv axle in hopes of solving a clunk when going over small bumps. Went smoothly since I had everything lathered in anti seize from previous fixes. When I puy the cv axle in though I'm sure I got a small amount of dirt in the diff though since the axle tube was really dirty. : I'll need to wait till this weekend to change it after I do the drivers side ball joints as well. Being my first time doing ball joints, I'm pretty happy that I can now replace everything on a d30 axle besides the gears. But it didn't solve my clunk though. : I think it's either the upper control arm axle bushing. The only bushing that's not new, sway bars (going to disconnect them tomorow to check), or the inner tie rod end that connects to the draglink.

Also I ripped my registration off of my windshield while pulling it apart. Does anyone knowing it costs anything to get a new one?
image-1686959974.jpg

image-1164091719.jpg

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Unread 02-24-2014, 07:11 AM   #30447
McCloudsZJ
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Roanoke, VA
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Started playing with this POS. If the Lotek piece wasn't so cheap, I'd be a little upset about the crappy quality. But you get what you pay for, and our only real option is a cheap one.

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March 2014 GCOTM. 1998 Deep Slate 5.9
On the Jeep:Hot intake, 52mm TB, Summit 8mm wires, catch can, 703s, insulated fuel rails, indexed Champions, Bilstein 4600s, Eibach lowering springs, Moog SS, Ironman mounts, Lotek 2GP, lots of gauges, sparkly paint.
In the garage: M1 4bbl
In the works: Addco/Hellwig sway bars, nitrous, full polly bushings, full exhaust, data logging, billet UD pulleys
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Unread 02-24-2014, 08:15 AM   #30448
PolkaPower
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Location: The Abyss, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ View Post
Started playing with this POS. If the Lotek piece wasn't so cheap, I'd be a little upset about the crappy quality. But you get what you pay for, and our only real option is a cheap one.

I remember when those first came out when I had my first ZJ like ten years ago. People complained about them back then too The big gripe back then was that the gauges didn't face the driver at a decent angle.
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Unread 02-24-2014, 08:25 AM   #30449
McCloudsZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
I remember when those first came out when I had my first ZJ like ten years ago. People complained about them back then too The big gripe back then was that the gauges didn't face the driver at a decent angle.
I don't even mind that part. They make angle rings that are like $5 that point them right towards your face. These were my biggest complaints... There's enough burring and flashing left over that the gauges physically didn't fit into the holes with out modification. The piece doesn't sit flush up against the a pillar, and doesn't have a rolled edge like the OEM piece does. And it's gonna take some serious convincing with a heat gun to get everything to sit flush. For the price of two generic single gauge pillar pods, though, it's not the worst thing in the world.



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March 2014 GCOTM. 1998 Deep Slate 5.9
On the Jeep:Hot intake, 52mm TB, Summit 8mm wires, catch can, 703s, insulated fuel rails, indexed Champions, Bilstein 4600s, Eibach lowering springs, Moog SS, Ironman mounts, Lotek 2GP, lots of gauges, sparkly paint.
In the garage: M1 4bbl
In the works: Addco/Hellwig sway bars, nitrous, full polly bushings, full exhaust, data logging, billet UD pulleys
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Unread 02-24-2014, 09:21 AM   #30450
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: The Abyss, MD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCloudsZJ View Post
I don't even mind that part. They make angle rings that are like $5 that point them right towards your face. These were my biggest complaints... There's enough burring and flashing left over that the gauges physically didn't fit into the holes with out modification. The piece doesn't sit flush up against the a pillar, and doesn't have a rolled edge like the OEM piece does. And it's gonna take some serious convincing with a heat gun to get everything to sit flush. For the price of two generic single gauge pillar pods, though, it's not the worst thing in the world.



Well at least they are consistent!
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