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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 02-06-2014, 10:48 PM   #30121
comptiger5000
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stamford, CT / Rochester, NY
Posts: 4,324
McCloudsZJ - That's about what mine looks like right now, maybe slightly worse. Except add heavy slush / ice caking on the insides of the wheel wells and on the rocker covers.

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Unread 02-07-2014, 12:45 PM   #30122
AlphaLorde
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Forest Lake, MN
Posts: 714
I got my 8.8 dropped off finally to have the artec truss welded on
__________________
1998 ZJ Laredo 5.2L 139k 231 w/SYE artec trussed 8.8 4.25"F/5"R lift
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Unread 02-07-2014, 03:13 PM   #30123
Maine1994ZJ
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phippsburg, Maine
Posts: 746
So, today Weezy got her rear axle swapped out.
What I had figured to be a 3 to 4 hour job turned into 7 hours.... Typical.
Upper control arm bolts fought me tooth & nail despite the fact that they have loosened themselves 5 times in the 10 months I've owned her.
Guess I got 'em tight enough the last time....
Lower control arm bolts came out slicker than snot on a glass doorknob!
Had to cut the axle side track bar bolt out with an angle grinder because the bolt was rusted to the bushing sleeve.
Apparently the heat and vibration from grinding was just right, because after I got the head ground off it, the rest of the bolt literally fell out!
Brakes, brake lines, shocks, and sway bar links all came apart slick and the ABS wires were easier to remove than I anticipated!
The bolts that holds the ABS wheel sensors in place on the outgoing axle were rusted badly enough that I had to cut them off with said grinder as well.
Salvaged the wheel sensor bolts from the ingoing axle!
Got the new axle in place and swapped in the used, but basically new, adjustable rear upper control arms w/Johnny Joints!
Hand tightened all CA bolts, found a suitable replacement track bar bolt and put that in hand tight too.
The u-joint strap bolt holes were really rusty, so I used a pipe cleaner folded over and tried to clear the threads.
Started the bolts in and they were being stubborn.
So I tried turning them in like you would use a tap, half turn ahead, quarter turn back, repeat.
First three strap bolts came up tight successfully. The fourth bolt broke off half way threaded in....
After attempting in vain to remove it from the yoke, and after a good temper tantrum because of that, I said **** IT and removed the yoke from the freshly removed axle without issue.
The impact gun I was using wouldn't even begin to budge the nut on the transplanted axle....
Used the biggest pipe wrench I could find, put it over the yoke tightly, and wedged it against the new-to-me beefcake upper CAs.
I put an 18" ratchet on it, braced myself on the unibody rail and couldn't move that SOB at all.
Slid a 6 foot long pipe over the ratchet, stood up and lifted the handle and the nut broke loose finally.
Swapped yokes and put the nut on as tight as the wimpy impact gun would get it(not tight, I gave it an extra 1/8th of a turn with a 10" ratchet with ease).
Put the brakes back together, used an adjustable clamp across both brake shoes to squeeze them slightly.
Opened the bleeder and let gravity bleed it for a second, tightened the clamp to compress the air out of the wheel cylinders, and tightened the bleeders(I have NEVER had better brakes in her!!! They're great!!!).
Put tires on it and set it on the ground to tighten everything as it normally sits.
I need new, longer sway bar end links really soon but the ones on it will do for now.
Come to think of it, I need front sway bar links too...
So over all it was a typical PITA but all said and done, it sure is nice to be without rear wheel steering.
My back is completely spent...
Also found this on the driver's side rear unibody rail. It's just below where the rear seat is.
__________________
'93 V8 ZJ Mountain Goat Edition.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 04:20 PM   #30124
big98tnzj
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: elizabethton, tn
Posts: 841
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine1994ZJ View Post
So, today Weezy got her rear axle swapped out.
What I had figured to be a 3 to 4 hour job turned into 7 hours.... Typical.
Upper control arm bolts fought me tooth & nail despite the fact that they have loosened themselves 5 times in the 10 months I've owned her.
Guess I got 'em tight enough the last time....
Lower control arm bolts came out slicker than snot on a glass doorknob!
Had to cut the axle side track bar bolt out with an angle grinder because the bolt was rusted to the bushing sleeve.
Apparently the heat and vibration from grinding was just right, because after I got the head ground off it, the rest of the bolt literally fell out!
Brakes, brake lines, shocks, and sway bar links all came apart slick and the ABS wires were easier to remove than I anticipated!
The bolts that holds the ABS wheel sensors in place on the outgoing axle were rusted badly enough that I had to cut them off with said grinder as well.
Salvaged the wheel sensor bolts from the ingoing axle!
Got the new axle in place and swapped in the used, but basically new, adjustable rear upper control arms w/Johnny Joints!
Hand tightened all CA bolts, found a suitable replacement track bar bolt and put that in hand tight too.
The u-joint strap bolt holes were really rusty, so I used a pipe cleaner folded over and tried to clear the threads.
Started the bolts in and they were being stubborn.
So I tried turning them in like you would use a tap, half turn ahead, quarter turn back, repeat.
First three strap bolts came up tight successfully. The fourth bolt broke off half way threaded in....
After attempting in vain to remove it from the yoke, and after a good temper tantrum because of that, I said **** IT and removed the yoke from the freshly removed axle without issue.
The impact gun I was using wouldn't even begin to budge the nut on the transplanted axle....
Used the biggest pipe wrench I could find, put it over the yoke tightly, and wedged it against the new-to-me beefcake upper CAs.
I put an 18" ratchet on it, braced myself on the unibody rail and couldn't move that SOB at all.
Slid a 6 foot long pipe over the ratchet, stood up and lifted the handle and the nut broke loose finally.
Swapped yokes and put the nut on as tight as the wimpy impact gun would get it(not tight, I gave it an extra 1/8th of a turn with a 10" ratchet with ease).
Put the brakes back together, used an adjustable clamp across both brake shoes to squeeze them slightly.
Opened the bleeder and let gravity bleed it for a second, tightened the clamp to compress the air out of the wheel cylinders, and tightened the bleeders(I have NEVER had better brakes in her!!! They're great!!!).
Put tires on it and set it on the ground to tighten everything as it normally sits.
I need new, longer sway bar end links really soon but the ones on it will do for now.
Come to think of it, I need front sway bar links too...
So over all it was a typical PITA but all said and done, it sure is nice to be without rear wheel steering.
My back is completely spent...
Also found this on the driver's side rear unibody rail. It's just below where the rear seat is.
Youve got a rust issue big time.

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
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Unread 02-07-2014, 04:39 PM   #30125
Maine1994ZJ
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phippsburg, Maine
Posts: 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by big98tnzj View Post
Youve got a rust issue big time.

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
Yeah, I need to look deeper into it and do some cutting, fab, and welding.
Got to keep the old gal around a little longer if I can!
__________________
'93 V8 ZJ Mountain Goat Edition.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 04:45 PM   #30126
big98tnzj
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: elizabethton, tn
Posts: 841
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine1994ZJ View Post

Yeah, I need to look deeper into it and do some cutting, fab, and welding.
Got to keep the old gal around a little longer if I can!
Im so glad that im down south and dont have to deal with all the snow from up north

Sent from my tent in the woods using JeepForum
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Unread 02-07-2014, 07:42 PM   #30127
OCDComputing
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Orangeville, Ontario
Posts: 81
LOL..wow these comment make me laugh! Come to Canada and enjoy playing in the snow! I took the ZJ out to the store and played in the snow a bit...the biggest banks I have been seeing are in the local Wally World...about 20+ feet high...I'm tempted to see if I can climb them in the ZJ! If you don't see me until Spring..you know where to look! LOL!
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Unread 02-07-2014, 10:12 PM   #30128
EndIsNear
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Amarillo, Texas
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post

Oh calm down Florida boy. This is Texas, where garages are used in place of basements or attics, and that's not snow, that's dust that's pretending to be snow.

Still, I would like to garage it every day.
My travel trailer didn't even come with a garage :P
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Unread 02-08-2014, 08:45 AM   #30129
Midnightluckey
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Houston, TX, Tx
Posts: 1,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz

Better yet, don't get stuck!
I'm not worried about getting recovered myself, I'm worried about finding some moron stuck on the trail, and, trying to be a nice guy, pull him out only to find out he thinks hooks go on sheet metal, hurting me, my friends, or my family in the process.
__________________
95 Limited Chargold ZJ 5.2L -5.5" lift (IRO, Ironman, and RC parts), 33" BFG M/T's, 15x8 procomp crawlers, 242 swap, 2 12" subs, 1000w amp, cherry bomb, full skid package, Kevins rear stealth bumper clone w 3/4" D rings, Rlcwelding front bumper w 3/8" D rings, XRC-8, front tow hooks, 2 daylighter fairlead lights, 2 daylighter windsheild lights, 2 55w driving lights, OBA, Cobra 18 CB, dual 4' whips, RC disconnects, smittybuilt jack, optima yellowtop.
Built not bought #512
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Unread 02-08-2014, 09:01 AM   #30130
Midnightluckey
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Houston, TX, Tx
Posts: 1,293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine1994ZJ
So, today Weezy got her rear axle swapped out.
What I had figured to be a 3 to 4 hour job turned into 7 hours.... Typical.
Upper control arm bolts fought me tooth & nail despite the fact that they have loosened themselves 5 times in the 10 months I've owned her.
Guess I got 'em tight enough the last time....
Lower control arm bolts came out slicker than snot on a glass doorknob!
Had to cut the axle side track bar bolt out with an angle grinder because the bolt was rusted to the bushing sleeve.
Apparently the heat and vibration from grinding was just right, because after I got the head ground off it, the rest of the bolt literally fell out!
Brakes, brake lines, shocks, and sway bar links all came apart slick and the ABS wires were easier to remove than I anticipated!
The bolts that holds the ABS wheel sensors in place on the outgoing axle were rusted badly enough that I had to cut them off with said grinder as well.
Salvaged the wheel sensor bolts from the ingoing axle!
Got the new axle in place and swapped in the used, but basically new, adjustable rear upper control arms w/Johnny Joints!
Hand tightened all CA bolts, found a suitable replacement track bar bolt and put that in hand tight too.
The u-joint strap bolt holes were really rusty, so I used a pipe cleaner folded over and tried to clear the threads.
Started the bolts in and they were being stubborn.
So I tried turning them in like you would use a tap, half turn ahead, quarter turn back, repeat.
First three strap bolts came up tight successfully. The fourth bolt broke off half way threaded in....
After attempting in vain to remove it from the yoke, and after a good temper tantrum because of that, I said **** IT and removed the yoke from the freshly removed axle without issue.
The impact gun I was using wouldn't even begin to budge the nut on the transplanted axle....
Used the biggest pipe wrench I could find, put it over the yoke tightly, and wedged it against the new-to-me beefcake upper CAs.
I put an 18" ratchet on it, braced myself on the unibody rail and couldn't move that SOB at all.
Slid a 6 foot long pipe over the ratchet, stood up and lifted the handle and the nut broke loose finally.
Swapped yokes and put the nut on as tight as the wimpy impact gun would get it(not tight, I gave it an extra 1/8th of a turn with a 10" ratchet with ease).
Put the brakes back together, used an adjustable clamp across both brake shoes to squeeze them slightly.
Opened the bleeder and let gravity bleed it for a second, tightened the clamp to compress the air out of the wheel cylinders, and tightened the bleeders(I have NEVER had better brakes in her!!! They're great!!!).
Put tires on it and set it on the ground to tighten everything as it normally sits.
I need new, longer sway bar end links really soon but the ones on it will do for now.
Come to think of it, I need front sway bar links too...
So over all it was a typical PITA but all said and done, it sure is nice to be without rear wheel steering.
My back is completely spent...
Also found this on the driver's side rear unibody rail. It's just below where the rear seat is.
I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to just tighten the yoke as much as you can. It screws with the bearing preload. Iirc, you need a new crush washer and torque it to 185 ft lbs. I didn't do this to my first d30 when swapping yokes and f'ed it all up. I'd just hate for you to have to swap that axle again.
__________________
95 Limited Chargold ZJ 5.2L -5.5" lift (IRO, Ironman, and RC parts), 33" BFG M/T's, 15x8 procomp crawlers, 242 swap, 2 12" subs, 1000w amp, cherry bomb, full skid package, Kevins rear stealth bumper clone w 3/4" D rings, Rlcwelding front bumper w 3/8" D rings, XRC-8, front tow hooks, 2 daylighter fairlead lights, 2 daylighter windsheild lights, 2 55w driving lights, OBA, Cobra 18 CB, dual 4' whips, RC disconnects, smittybuilt jack, optima yellowtop.
Built not bought #512
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Unread 02-08-2014, 09:54 AM   #30131
Maine1994ZJ
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phippsburg, Maine
Posts: 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightluckey View Post
I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to just tighten the yoke as much as you can. It screws with the bearing preload. Iirc, you need a new crush washer and torque it to 185 ft lbs. I didn't do this to my first d30 when swapping yokes and f'ed it all up. I'd just hate for you to have to swap that axle again.
The D35 is only temporary until I can swap in an 8.8".
I'm more worried about the unibody rust at this point.
__________________
'93 V8 ZJ Mountain Goat Edition.
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Unread 02-08-2014, 10:32 AM   #30132
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stamford, CT / Rochester, NY
Posts: 4,324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maine1994ZJ View Post
The D35 is only temporary until I can swap in an 8.8".
I'm more worried about the unibody rust at this point.
Time to start cutting and welding. You can rebuild it, stronger and stiffer than it ever was!
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Unread 02-08-2014, 10:57 AM   #30133
ejschultz
Web Wheeler
 
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 3,159
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightluckey View Post
I'm not worried about getting recovered myself, I'm worried about finding some moron stuck on the trail, and, trying to be a nice guy, pull him out only to find out he thinks hooks go on sheet metal, hurting me, my friends, or my family in the process.
I 100% agree. I know the recovery on my vehicle is suitable for use. I'm afraid of the other guy kn the trail who thinks his hooks are good enough or the guy that puts his vehicle into a ditch and thinks his chain and hook are good enough. I hate not helping people, but I'm not doing it at the risk of anyone's well being.
__________________
97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
14 JKU Sport S - Stock
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Unread 02-08-2014, 11:08 AM   #30134
zj97ltd
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Cape Coral, FLORIDA
Posts: 1,078
Climate control started blowing hot last night. Swapped the controls out with a spare I had. All is well again.
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Unread 02-08-2014, 11:22 AM   #30135
ejschultz
Web Wheeler
 
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 3,159
Quote:
Originally Posted by zj97ltd View Post
Climate control started blowing hot last night. Swapped the controls out with a spare I had. All is well again.
I was going to say that's a good thing since the high for today is 9, then I realized you're in Florida.
__________________
97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
14 JKU Sport S - Stock
Build
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