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Unread 12-14-2013, 11:41 PM   #28546
txbass06
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 601
Got the '95 back to town a few minutes ago. Decided to drive it back instead of trailering it and it did surprisingly well for having 184k miles on her. Steering feels about the same as mine but doesn't want to road walk as bad.
Temp never got past the 1/4 mark on the gauge so I don't know how the heat is but it does cycle through all the settings correctly. I'm guessing stuck open/no thermostat. Here's a parking lot pic from tonight. Not a bad deal for $1300


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Unread 12-14-2013, 11:56 PM   #28547
BoostinChick
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: West Chester, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platinum5nine View Post
I dont agree but like i said it's your engine not mine. Ill run what i know and thats it. Diesel oil is diesel oil and gas engine oil is gas engine oil. I un like some dont believe everything i read on the internet. Even though "the internet doesnt lie" lol
I run Rotella T6 in my WRX, my SV650, and my Jeep. Zero issues for 60k+ miles and nothing has seized or blown up on me. The price tag is also very good.

To keep on topic, I am jut collecting parts....Hella 450's
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Unread 12-15-2013, 12:28 AM   #28548
big98tnzj
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Location: elizabethton, tn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platinum5nine View Post

You know diesel oil is not made for gas engines and can actually harm the engine right

Anyway, 10-30 Valvoline oil from walmart at $15 for 5 quarts, Purolator filter from advance at about $3.50, and im good to go.
The 10 30 that i run is the made for anything. It matches all of the clasifications for everything and its what i run in everyones generators that only run between 2000 and 3000 rpms when theh are running and thats only when they are camping in their rvs. The back of the jug actually says for gas or diesel engines and if you would bother to read thd back of the jugs you would see that they can be run in gas or diesel engines as long as they meet the classification requirements for whatever you drive.

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Unread 12-15-2013, 01:45 AM   #28549
SchizophrenicMC
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Location: Arlington, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platinum5nine View Post
Problem is it's not made to lubricate at high RPM. Diesels top out at 3000-3500 RPM When used in a gas engine at 5000+ RPM you arent lubricating bearings properly, it just doesnt flow the way it should. Use it long term and it will be the death of your engine. You arent doing yourself or youe engine any favors by using diesel oil. Use a good quality 10-30 and be done with it.
I'm gonna say you don't know the first damn thing about motor oil. Or the SAE oil weight system. Because that post really suggests you don't know a damn thing about motor oil.

First off, diesels are not exclusively low-revving engines. The really big ones, like the Ford Powerstroke and Cummins 6.7l engines rev to 3500 before the limiter kicks in. Smaller ones, which still call for heavy diesel oils, rev even higher. The VM Motori 3.0l TDI V6 in the WK2, for example, doesn't even hit peak HP until 4000 RPM.

Second: It is the oil's weight, and the pump's characteristics, which define an oil's ability to move in and around an engine at high speeds, not a sticker on a bottle. The whole point of the SAE oil weight classification is that it classifies viscosity, and viscosity determines the rate at which the oil can flow at a given pressure. 10W30 is 10W30 no matter what the bottle says. They are both dual-weight oils that have the viscosity of SAE 10 weight when cold and SAE 30 when hot. They both have the same lubricating properties and flow properties. There are motorcycles that call for diesel engine oil, and these same motorcycles rev to 12 and 15k RPM. They call for thick diesel oil because its viscosity helps it stick to the cylinder walls and bearings when the engine is spinning faster than the pump can move fluid.

The only differences between diesel and gasoline oil at a given weight are the additives. Diesel oils have additives that help it better deal with contaminants, including blow-by contaminants and water, as well as additional detergents to break down carbon buildup. Gasoline engine oils do not have the same types or amounts of detergents.

And you might not believe me because what I'm saying is "on the internet". But I'm not speaking a load of BS I learned on the internet, I'm applying the theories regarding motor oil, which I learned in a much more professional environment. I suggest you take a moment to learn what the hell you're talking about before you open your mouth with backward tripe.

Getting minor details wrong is one thing. I do that and I don't hold it against anybody. But making sweeping categorizations regarding something you obviously know nothing about beyond some superstitions, is just foolish.

Anyway, I looked at some parts I want for this Orvis. The fun part will be deciding what tires I want. The not-fun part will be buying 5 new light truck tires in a large size.

EDIT:

txbass06, shoulda bought mine. Working heat, working A/C, new steering, new water pump and thermostat, all sorts of new sensor-related goodies, all for only $1200.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 02:20 AM   #28550
big98tnzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post

I'm gonna say you don't know the first damn thing about motor oil. Or the SAE oil weight system. Because that post really suggests you don't know a damn thing about motor oil.

First off, diesels are not exclusively low-revving engines. The really big ones, like the Ford Powerstroke and Cummins 6.7l engines rev to 3500 before the limiter kicks in. Smaller ones, which still call for heavy diesel oils, rev even higher. The VM Motori 3.0l TDI V6 in the WK2, for example, doesn't even hit peak HP until 4000 RPM.

Second: It is the oil's weight, and the pump's characteristics, which define an oil's ability to move in and around an engine at high speeds, not a sticker on a bottle. The whole point of the SAE oil weight classification is that it classifies viscosity, and viscosity determines the rate at which the oil can flow at a given pressure. 10W30 is 10W30 no matter what the bottle says. They are both dual-weight oils that have the viscosity of SAE 10 weight when cold and SAE 30 when hot. They both have the same lubricating properties and flow properties. There are motorcycles that call for diesel engine oil, and these same motorcycles rev to 12 and 15k RPM. They call for thick diesel oil because its viscosity helps it stick to the cylinder walls and bearings when the engine is spinning faster than the pump can move fluid.

The only differences between diesel and gasoline oil at a given weight are the additives. Diesel oils have additives that help it better deal with contaminants, including blow-by contaminants and water, as well as additional detergents to break down carbon buildup. Gasoline engine oils do not have the same types or amounts of detergents.

And you might not believe me because what I'm saying is "on the internet". But I'm not speaking a load of BS I learned on the internet, I'm applying the theories regarding motor oil, which I learned in a much more professional environment. I suggest you take a moment to learn what the hell you're talking about before you open your mouth with backward tripe.

Getting minor details wrong is one thing. I do that and I don't hold it against anybody. But making sweeping categorizations regarding something you obviously know nothing about beyond some superstitions, is just foolish.

Anyway, I looked at some parts I want for this Orvis. The fun part will be deciding what tires I want. The not-fun part will be buying 5 new light truck tires in a large size.

EDIT:

txbass06, shoulda bought mine. Working heat, working A/C, new steering, new water pump and thermostat, all sorts of new sensor-related goodies, all for only $1200.
I know a lot more then some might think so. Ive been around cars my whole life and i never said that the sae has anything to do with the classifications for which it can be used. Im talking about 300 plus cummins and cat diesels in rvs that run a 10 30 diesel or even a 15 40 oil and the generators that are in them use the 10 30 more than anything and they are 3 cylinder engines. Here is the label off of the oil that i use in my 5.2. Like i said it is for diesel and gas engines both.
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil
Outperforms Conventional Diesel Oils
Exceeds both 10W-30 multi-grade and SAE 30 straight-grade viscosity requirements. Provides outstanding performance in pre-2007 diesel engines in on-road applications as well as all model-year diesel engines in off-road apps. Also recommended for gasoline engines requiring API SL or previous specifications.

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Unread 12-15-2013, 02:46 AM   #28551
xrunndonex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big98tnzj View Post

I know a lot more then some might think so. Ive been around cars my whole life and i never said that the sae has anything to do with the classifications for which it can be used. Im talking about 300 plus cummins and cat diesels in rvs that run a 10 30 diesel or even a 15 40 oil and the generators that are in them use the 10 30 more than anything and they are 3 cylinder engines. Here is the label off of the oil that i use in my 5.2. Like i said it is for diesel and gas engines both.
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil
Outperforms Conventional Diesel Oils
Exceeds both 10W-30 multi-grade and SAE 30 straight-grade viscosity requirements. Provides outstanding performance in pre-2007 diesel engines in on-road applications as well as all model-year diesel engines in off-road apps. Also recommended for gasoline engines requiring API SL or previous specifications.

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We are not talking fleet oil just diesel. As I understand the scrubbing agents in diesel oil is for the soot and stuff that they produce inside a diesel engine. Which if it was inside a gas engine it'd clean the cylinder walls cool eh? But it'll produce black smoke and all that jazz also will help clog up the cat. It won't be like seafoam seafoam cleans quicker the diesel oil would just be a long process of black smoke and ****. also talking about clogging the cat the zinc level in the oil will help clog it to. Also there are no manuals for gas engines that will say you cc CD cc/CD oil it will always have se I think in front of it. The 10-30 diesel oil is also thicker then motor oil. Blah blah I'll stick with oil made for gas engines
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Unread 12-15-2013, 02:54 AM   #28552
xrunndonex
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Also the oil can cause loss of pressure in the cylinders
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Unread 12-15-2013, 03:11 AM   #28553
big98tnzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrunndonex View Post

We are not talking fleet oil just diesel. As I understand the scrubbing agents in diesel oil is for the soot and stuff that they produce inside a diesel engine. Which if it was inside a gas engine it'd clean the cylinder walls cool eh? But it'll produce black smoke and all that jazz also will help clog up the cat. It won't be like seafoam seafoam cleans quicker the diesel oil would just be a long process of black smoke and ****. also talking about clogging the cat the zinc level in the oil will help clog it to. Also there are no manuals for gas engines that will say you cc CD cc/CD oil it will always have se I think in front of it. The 10-30 diesel oil is also thicker then motor oil. Blah blah I'll stick with oil made for gas engines
The 10 30 diesel oil is not any thicker than regular 10 30 oil. They ars both the same viscosity just different engines. Yeah the diesel oil has more detergents then regular oil and it does clean the inside of the engine better but it also lubricates the cylinder walls better. Ive never had any black soot out of my tail pipe and some of the newer diesel oil is good for the cat because it is more eco friendly

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Unread 12-15-2013, 04:21 AM   #28554
970001zj
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is it easier/harder to clean diesel oil off the garage floor compared to gas oil ?

hmmmmm

also

will it help/hurt my starter when i change the oil and spill a quart on it removing the filter ?
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Unread 12-15-2013, 05:53 AM   #28555
AnotherRedZj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 970001zj View Post
is it easier/harder to clean diesel oil off the garage floor compared to gas oil ?

hmmmmm

also

will it help/hurt my starter when i change the oil and spill a quart on it removing the filter ?
These are the REAL questions! Lol
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Unread 12-15-2013, 07:10 AM   #28556
95z
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 970001zj View Post
is it easier/harder to clean diesel oil off the garage floor compared to gas oil ?

hmmmmm

also

will it help/hurt my starter when i change the oil and spill a quart on it removing the filter ?
Ever spilled Lucas! Lubing the starter every oil change can't be bad or they wouldn't have designed the oil filter to spill on the starter every time!!!
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Unread 12-15-2013, 07:51 AM   #28557
ejschultz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchizophrenicMC View Post
I have a lot of really strong memories from a young age. I remember some few things from as early as age 2 (for example, a promotional VHS tape for the Challenger Ultralight that my dad had. I used to make my parents play it over and over again, and that's how I learned What a Wonderful World by Louis Armstrong). I remember a lot of things from age 4. Seeing the first episode of Pokemon the first time it aired on WB's saturday morning cartoons, for example. I won't go so far as to say I have a full episodic memory that young, but I do have some strong, vivid memories that are historically correct according to my dad.

Actually, nostalgia is a big reason I love ZJs. See, at the tail end of the 90s, my parents had this friend, Holly. Holly was married with 2 kids just like my parents at the time, and had a 1997 Grand Cherokee Laredo in moss green with the I6 and 4WD just like mine. (Believe me, the triggered memories from getting into my Jeep for the first time were intense) Dad, my sister, and I used to go visit Holly quite a lot. I was good friends with her oldest daughter, Katie. It was a lot of fun getting to play with Katie, and for Marissa to play with Emily, and we'd go places, usually in the Grand Cherokee.

It wouldn't be until I was 16 that I would learn that dad and Holly were having an affair. Everything made a lot more sense after that came to light. Go dad

Anyway, things like the VIC (which I discovered for the first time on a dealer showroom in 1998 when dad was looking, though he couldn't afford even a basic XJ) have a real nifty-factor for me and I have nostalgia for when a lot of these devices were coming into existence. This may explain my unnatural love for overhead consoles and all the little displays one can possibly pack into a car.
Alright, that makes sense then. That's probably like me and Caprices. I remember my mom getting rid of her Taurus in 93 and getting a Caprice. A year later, my grandparents bought one. Throughout 93-96 (my dad didn't like the skirts on the 91-92) my dad had a few of them as demos through his dealership. I vividly remember the Impala coming out in 94 and have wanted one since. Until recently, they've been way out of my price range. They've started to come down and I've started to make a lot more money, but I don't see myself ever getting one because it would mean, to my wife, getting rid of my 94 Caprice or my ZJ. Both of them have a lot of my blood, sweat, frozen snot, and tears in them and the Caprice also has too much sentimental value to it seeing it was my grandfather's. But yeah, I definitely can relate there to remembering certain things in certain vehicles because of who had them in the past. My other grandfather had an early 80s LTD that I remember like it was yesterday. I won't go into that one though.

Oh, and you're dad's a pimp.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davigzj View Post
Is your Aussie in the Front just asking...cause I'm wanting to put 1 in the front....
Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
I think his is in the rear. If you put one in the front, you won't be able to use 4WD in the snow unless it's deep (and fulltime becomes useless as it'll bind on pavement). In 4wd, it won't turn if you're on the throttle as the front will lock.
It's definitely in the back. With the amount of snow we're capable of getting here, I didn't want to put on in the front.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 08:36 AM   #28558
Maine1994ZJ
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Just busted it out of the snow drift it was put in last night and drove to the store to get more gas for the snow thrower.
We got about a foot of snow/sleet last night.
There is some serious snow packed in my wheels, cuz the Jeep was jumpin all over the place at around 30-35mph

Gonna take it out later and see how stuck I can get it in my back yard.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 09:15 AM   #28559
SchizophrenicMC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrunndonex View Post
We are not talking fleet oil just diesel. As I understand the scrubbing agents in diesel oil is for the soot and stuff that they produce inside a diesel engine. Which if it was inside a gas engine it'd clean the cylinder walls cool eh? But it'll produce black smoke and all that jazz also will help clog up the cat. It won't be like seafoam seafoam cleans quicker the diesel oil would just be a long process of black smoke and ****. also talking about clogging the cat the zinc level in the oil will help clog it to. Also there are no manuals for gas engines that will say you cc CD cc/CD oil it will always have se I think in front of it. The 10-30 diesel oil is also thicker then motor oil. Blah blah I'll stick with oil made for gas engines
Why would oil in your crankcase end up in your combustion chambers in enough quantity to damage your catalytic converter at all? If that's happening, you've got bad valve seals, blown oil rings, or both. It's okay to accept you're wrong, it makes you look bad to keep talking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
Oh, and you're dad's a pimp.
Damn right.

I need to get the Laredo's front suspension sorted, but it's too cold for my tiny little girl hands today, and I work really dumb shifts tomorrow and Tuesday. Not to mention I don't have the tools or additional manpower to change the front control arms on my own in my driveway. Maybe I won't need to. Maybe removing the lift will make it drivable.
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Unread 12-15-2013, 10:01 AM   #28560
comptiger5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platinum5nine View Post
You know diesel oil is not made for gas engines and can actually harm the engine right

Anyway, 10-30 Valvoline oil from walmart at $15 for 5 quarts, Purolator filter from advance at about $3.50, and im good to go.
Most diesel oils are also rated for use in gas engines.

Personally, I've been running Rotella T6 5W-40 (yes, it's diesel oil) in my 5.9 and changing it every 6k (confirmed to be fine by oil analysis).
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