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Jeep LED Light Lights! OCONEE OFF-ROAD 706-534-9955RCV Axles at CCOR15 x 8 Black D-Window Steel Wheels Set of 4

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Unread 10-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #26491
MyKeyB
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Posts: 300
Bought some synthetic trans. fluid for the t case. Bought a big enough allen wrench to change the fluid. Bought a transfer pump to change the diff oil. Looked everywhere for synthetic 75-140 gear oil for the diffs. None to be found under $20.00 a quart and I need at least 3 maybe 4 quarts and no one had 4 quarts. Then I ran over my muffler when it fell off. When I checked how bad it was I noticed the converter was rusted through and the O2 sensor was barely hanging in there. FML. I have some work to do and money to spend. It does really sound bad *** through just the converter though. Lol. Looks like a trip to Summit is in my future. At least they will have my gear oil. SMH.

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Unread 10-24-2013, 09:23 PM   #26492
Platinum5nine
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Middle Island, NY
Posts: 510
You dont need 75-140 gear oil, 80-90 and no need for synthetic. As for the transfer case 1.5 quarts ATF+4
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Unread 10-24-2013, 09:25 PM   #26493
riot1987
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: In your attic, with the squirrels and wrapping paper
Posts: 3,568
hammered down more fender well. I think im done. Finally.
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/riots-97-grand-1436100/

Build thread^^
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Unread 10-24-2013, 09:51 PM   #26494
Bullwinkle_98ZJ
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 57
Converted the wood grain inserts to stainless
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Unread 10-24-2013, 09:57 PM   #26495
MyKeyB
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Youngstown, Ohio
Posts: 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Platinum5nine View Post
You dont need 75-140 gear oil, 80-90 and no need for synthetic. As for the transfer case 1.5 quarts ATF+4
I have the towing package. 75-140 is the recomended gear oil. I don't tow a thing and am about to buy 80-90. ATF +, screw that. I found dex syn on sale and thats what its getting. From what I understand as long as the tc has some type of oil it should be okay. As far synthetic goes, not a user as far as oil goes but in diffs, tc's, and transmissions (parts that need fluid changes every 30,000 miles) I like the piece of mind it gives me and the percieved benifits (whether real or not). Piece of mind I guess. (whether real or not.)
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Unread 10-24-2013, 11:13 PM   #26496
SchizophrenicMC
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 2,382
Decided that, while she's still going, a JK will not be replacing her.
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1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited

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Unread 10-25-2013, 12:12 AM   #26497
ElCaminoManT
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 224
yesterday; replaced front and rear lower procrap arms with beefier RC units with clevite bushings. no longer could drive above 30mph due to rear driveline vibration from ****ty pinion angle from longer rear lower arms.

today; reinstalled procrap lower rear arms until i get adjustable upper arms. at least i can drive above 30mph again.

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1993 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0L/42RE 242 4x4. 3" springs. Front and rear RC tubular lowers. Rusty's adjustable rear uppers. RE double-sheer front track bar. JKS adjustable rear track bar. Bilstein 5100s. 31" Falken Rocky Mountain A/T. 15" Eagle wheels. V8 steering linkage.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 04:23 AM   #26498
ejschultz
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 3,104
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnotherRedZj View Post
2 1/4 BB, 31x10.50's, shim the steering stops, extend your rear bump stops (if you disco the rear offroad) and love it!
You should never have the need to disco the rear, stock swaybar off road. It doesn't add any flexibility. It's mainly there for on road stability. A bunch of "seasoned vets" on here will argue keeping it on at all times as well.
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97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
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Unread 10-25-2013, 04:38 AM   #26499
AnotherRedZj
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: fort walton beach, fl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post

You should never have the need to disco the rear, stock swaybar off road. It doesn't add any flexibility. It's mainly there for on road stability. A bunch of "seasoned vets" on here will argue keeping it on at all times as well.
Hence the (..if..) mine don't come off.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 05:09 AM   #26500
coralman
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 4,281
Getting closer to the core replacements. Just waiting for more funds. Its starting to cool off here so I'm not looking forward to the elements. Just hope the heater core doesn't blow before I get to it. Oil change{all} needs doing. Ordered a new trans pan and want to put a bung in it. Question there is weld or not to weld? Welding shop did a good job on the diff cover but the trans pan is thinner material. Jegs has a good selection of fittings.
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Move over bear.I'm tired of working on the jeep

Links to axle rebuilds, mount replace,a/c box rebuild,ect in history section of my profile page
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Unread 10-25-2013, 05:49 AM   #26501
95z
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Originally Posted by Myusername1674 View Post
D30 locker came in the mail today


Gonna have to install it, probably next weeked. Can't wait!
What'd ya pay?
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Unread 10-25-2013, 06:41 AM   #26502
Maine1994ZJ
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phippsburg, Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
You should never have the need to disco the rear, stock swaybar off road. It doesn't add any flexibility. It's mainly there for on road stability. A bunch of "seasoned vets" on here will argue keeping it on at all times as well.
^This^
I have my rear hooked up and just haven't got around to hooking my front back up, ya know, because it's just SO difficult to hook it back up....
I only drive 6 miles to work and 6 miles back. No highway driving, period!
If I did do highway driving, I prolly woulda paid attention to what I did with the bushings, bushing cups, and the nuts when I put in my lift....
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Unread 10-25-2013, 07:22 AM   #26503
Myusername1674
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95z View Post
What'd ya pay?
Well rustys offroad was doing a sale for $210, it was $226 with shipping, so Kolak matched that and even brought it down some. Final total was $219 including shipping
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My 5.9 swap (in progress)

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Unread 10-25-2013, 07:26 AM   #26504
Myusername1674
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Location: Chattanooga, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
You should never have the need to disco the rear, stock swaybar off road. It doesn't add any flexibility. It's mainly there for on road stability. A bunch of "seasoned vets" on here will argue keeping it on at all times as well.
I discoed my rear and it actually did help me climb this stump one time, I tried it with it connected and couldn't keep my tires on the ground, disconnected I went right up. That's my personal experience, though I'm not the most experienced it did help me out in that one instance.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 08:04 AM   #26505
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stamford, CT / Rochester, NY
Posts: 4,295
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
You should never have the need to disco the rear, stock swaybar off road. It doesn't add any flexibility. It's mainly there for on road stability. A bunch of "seasoned vets" on here will argue keeping it on at all times as well.
Disco-ing it can help a little bit in some situations. It'll add about 2" of downtravel when at full flex in the rear (assuming stock height). If you're running UC springs or something else stiffer in the rear the slight stability drop from removing likely won't be an issue. Once I re-do my spring / shock setup to stiffen things up a bit I'll probably end up deleting the rear sway bar.
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