I installed my RE super flex rear upper control arms, moved the axle forward a bit so it's centered when flexed up, and adjusted the pinion angle.
I had to make some mounts for the e-brake cables and rear brake line. I used three layers of plumbers tape heat shrink wrapped together. After it was wrapped I drilled the holes out to 3/8" on each end, bent them, and zip tied them to the axle. I can't believe they didn't come with mounts, as expensive as these arms are.
5.9 Limited, RE 4" lift, RE FTB, JK take offs w/ 255/75/17 BFG MT's, 1.25" wheel adapters, ARB Bumper, Superwinch LP10000, K&N intake, Flowmaster, custom JL & Focal stereo, 20% tint, KOR roof mount tire carrier, JCR sliders, cobra 75 wx st
How do you figure that? I'm at DTE 0 long before I need to get gas.
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1998 ZJ Platinum Limited 5.9, Backyard parts fodder
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
My o2 sensor came in today so I changed that out. What a PITA! Why that plug could not be a few inches lower down so people with average sized forearms can reach it is beyond me. But I cleared the computer and there's no engine light and the idle seems stronger and more stable. I'll know more after driving it to work later. My swollen forearm would love if this fixed my problem
95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
Mopar or no car!
It was ALL of the PITA sensors. CPS, CKP, UO2, DO2, and the ignition coil all went to hell on me. So I've got all but the O2 sensors replaced and she runs again. Needs a new muffler though. Might need a new cat. Dunno yet.
I rubbed my knuckle to all hell changing that crankshaft sensor. God that was a pain, literally and figuratively. And I ended up having to buy a new bolt and nut to hold it because the existing bolt disappeared. Changing the CPS and coil took about 5 minutes though. Not bad. Only a pain because I'd already torn my knuckle off when I went to those.
I'm considering blowing a bunch more money on a new steering box, track bar bushings, steering damper, and steering wheel. I know I shouldn't drop $350 on a steering wheel, but this leather is all torn up and gets in the way of the gauges.
1997 Grand Cherokee Orvis Edition