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Unread 07-28-2013, 01:19 AM   #24466
Gazang
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: T-end, MT
Posts: 52
Had the distinct honor (like so many other zj owners) of replacing my power steering pump bracket... twas broke in two and pump pulley was screaming like a drunk monkey. 1 hr later and new (beefed up) mopar bracket and screaming GONE!!!
And for S&Gs, seafoamed the zj and it's running 100% better now

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Unread 07-28-2013, 08:09 AM   #24467
ejschultz
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 3,074
I took it out to a couple car shows last night with my dad. I talked to a guy with a military spec K5 diesel Blazer for a while at one of the shows then walked around and checked out all the muscle cars and hot rods that were there. We left there to go to another show. On the way, just when I thought it might have stopped working, my check engine light came on. It wasn't running rough or anything, but it was on. I checked the code at the next little show and found it is 27. Apparently one of my injectors isn't properly responding. Maybe I'll put in the stock injectors and get rid of the 703s everyone holds dearly.
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97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
14 JKU Sport S - Stock
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Unread 07-28-2013, 08:16 AM   #24468
moparlover1992
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Whittemore, Iowa
Posts: 354
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
I took it out to a couple car shows last night with my dad. I talked to a guy with a military spec K5 diesel Blazer for a while at one of the shows then walked around and checked out all the muscle cars and hot rods that were there. We left there to go to another show. On the way, just when I thought it might have stopped working, my check engine light came on. It wasn't running rough or anything, but it was on. I checked the code at the next little show and found it is 27. Apparently one of my injectors isn't properly responding. Maybe I'll put in the stock injectors and get rid of the 703s everyone holds dearly.
How long have you had the 703s?
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95 zj 5.2 np242 3.5'' IRO lift, IRO adjustable arms, KOR front trackbar, steering stabilizer and box brace, IRO rear adjustable trackbar, bilsteins, Hughes plenum plate, flow master 40, 31x10.5s on 15'' dc-2 rims
Mopar or no car!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 08:22 AM   #24469
ejschultz
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
Posts: 3,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by moparlover1992 View Post
How long have you had the 703s?
Over a year now.
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97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
14 JKU Sport S - Stock
Build
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Unread 07-28-2013, 09:03 AM   #24470
xrunndonex
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1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: coffeyville, Kansas
Posts: 1,666
Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post

Over a year now.
You can soak them in a cleaner and use a compressor and clean them out I think a ricer guy said it so it may not be true lol
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Unread 07-28-2013, 09:26 AM   #24471
coralman
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: florida
Posts: 4,226
Were they new or reconditioned ej? Just wanted to know. Was the swap worth it in the first place?
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Unread 07-28-2013, 09:43 AM   #24472
ejschultz
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Location: Crown Point, Indiana
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I reconditioned them when I put them in. I soaked them in carb cleaner and changed their filters. I checked the resistance of 12 of them and took the 8 that had the closest value. In all honesty, after checking today, it may have been a looser connector that lowt connection when I hit a bump just long enough to throw the light. As far as the swap being worth it, no. Probably not. I didn't notice any difference in MPG or acceleration. It idled a little smoother after, but that is very marginal.
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97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
14 JKU Sport S - Stock
Build
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Unread 07-28-2013, 09:43 AM   #24473
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Stamford, CT / Rochester, NY
Posts: 4,277
Getting ready to hook up the new heater core and replace the bad A/C line so I can leak check the system and then charge it up!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 09:49 AM   #24474
Darkrocker
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vassalboro, Maine
Posts: 277
So far I've replaced both of my rear lower control arms. They were starting to rot pretty bad. Also I ****ing love my dewalt cordless impact. It makes jobs like this so much quicker and easier. It took about an hour and a half for both sides, start to finish. And that was with wrestling the driver side arm into place for 20 minutes so the damn bolt would line up. Taking a breather for a bit then going out to put in new motor mounts.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 12:41 PM   #24475
coralman
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: florida
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Passed it 23.000 times doing yardwork.

Thanks ej, kinda taking a very loose poll of people who have.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 12:57 PM   #24476
970001zj
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,989
Quote:
Originally Posted by 970001zj View Post
diagnosing leaks
forgot i left a weak spot in the cooling system in case of head gasket leaks

mustve come looser than when i did the rad and t stat
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Unread 07-28-2013, 12:59 PM   #24477
CareyKimber
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Mannford, Ok
Posts: 141
Removed the dif covers inspected gears. Everything looks good(Thank God at 279000miles). Painted Dif Covers since I dont plan on smashing them on rocks anytime soon and I figured 8.99 for paint is a better option then 200+ for new tough ones. About to put it all back together with some lubelocker gaskets and some lucas 80w90.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 02:30 PM   #24478
Darkrocker
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vassalboro, Maine
Posts: 277
Well I jynxed myself, everything went to smoothly with the control arms. Started on the passenger side mount and was able to free every bolt except the through bolt. It would come out about 90% of the way but after that it wouldn't budge. Tried to get it lined up by starting her up, hoping that would give it the jolt I needed to wiggle it out of place. She didn't really crank, just kinda grrrd then the silent alarm went off. Checked the battery and it's at 6.5 volts. Can leaving the doors open for an extended period of time kill the battery? I'm hoping it was something stupid along those lines and not a new unknown issue. Although that never gave me a problem before.

Point being yeah I have 2 shiny new control arms but now I have a dead battery and a motor mount that's being held in place by a through bolt on one side.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 02:37 PM   #24479
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: The Abyss, MD
Posts: 15,780
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkrocker View Post
Well I jynxed myself, everything went to smoothly with the control arms. Started on the passenger side mount and was able to free every bolt except the through bolt. It would come out about 90% of the way but after that it wouldn't budge. Tried to get it lined up by starting her up, hoping that would give it the jolt I needed to wiggle it out of place. She didn't really crank, just kinda grrrd then the silent alarm went off. Checked the battery and it's at 6.5 volts. Can leaving the doors open for an extended period of time kill the battery? I'm hoping it was something stupid along those lines and not a new unknown issue. Although that never gave me a problem before.

Point being yeah I have 2 shiny new control arms but now I have a dead battery and a motor mount that's being held in place by a through bolt on one side.
I've killed the batt leaving the doors open/stereo on before. Put it on a tricle charger overnight.
For the MM loosen up both mounts before you tighten them down for good. It will allow you to use a pry bar to move the motor.
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Unread 07-28-2013, 03:19 PM   #24480
Darkrocker
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vassalboro, Maine
Posts: 277
It looks like that was the case, got it jumped and she's fine now. That's never been an issue before though. Starting to think my battery is growing weak. I've been noticing it now takes a moment to turn over about half the time. That's despite having a new alternator and starter. And I might just have the motor mounts done by a friend of the family, it's getting harder and harder to find time to get all this done. Plus I have a deadline, gotta have everything done by August 16th when I'll be driving 400 miles to move my gf into her dorm. But now I'm pretty sure the reason why it's proving so difficult to line up is the slope on my street, you kinda lean toward the curb when your parked.
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