Eh, as long as you get the part that the fender bolts to straight, I think I'd cut away the rest, especially if you're going to be putting a real bumper on it with that insurance check. I've seen plenty of guys cut off the whole piece from the frame rail out, leaving only the piece of steel connecting the two rails. All you really have to move is the evap can.
Only example I could find atm.
95 Limited Chargold ZJ 5.2L -5.5" lift (IRO, Ironman, and RC parts), 33" BFG M/T's, 15x8 procomp crawlers, 242 swap, 2 12" subs, 1000w amp, cherry bomb, full skid package, Kevins rear stealth bumper clone w 3/4" D rings, Rlcwelding front bumper w 3/8" D rings, XRC-8, front tow hooks, 2 daylighter fairlead lights, 2 daylighter windsheild lights, 2 55w driving lights, OBA, Cobra 18 CB, dual 4' whips, RC disconnects, smittybuilt jack, optima yellowtop.
There's another guy whos friends with a guy on the niner Facebook who has a ZJ with a WJ face. I might be able to find his write up again.
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__________________ March 2014 GCOTM. 1998 Deep Slate 5.9 On the Jeep:Hot intake, 52mm TB, Summit 8mm wires, catch can, 703s, insulated fuel rails, indexed Champions, Bilstein 4600s, Eibach lowering springs, Moog SS, Ironman mounts, Lotek 2GP, lots of gauges, sparkly paint. In the garage: M1 4bbl In the works: Addco/Hellwig sway bars, nitrous, full polly bushings, full exhaust, data logging, billet UD pulleys
At least 8.
This is the part that concerns me. I'm not a body guy at all so Idk for sure anything. But I know its not Jus a bolt up fix. That looks like a good lil bit of metal work.
Hood still lines up, and evap box didn't break!
I'm not an expert, but I have a bit of experience, and it looks to me like the damage is all to the superficial body, and not to the unit frame, which means it can probably be pulled back into shape. Worst case, some cut-and-weld action.
I did this to an RX7 once. Looked like this:
Luckily, the superficial body took all the damage and spared the frame (which is much softer than a ZJ frame I might add), so it still drove straight and could have been fixed for probably a few hundred dollars. (Plus used panels) I'm glad I didn't, though. Selling that car's what got me into my Jeep.
I'd be willing to bet your damage is the same story.
1997 Grand Cherokee Orvis Edition
1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited
1996 ZJ Green Laredo V8, 2.5" OME and Bilsteins, 33's, Holes drilled in the roof.
1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
replaced the o-rings on the compressor last night and charged the system with fresh 134A, now it blows COLD! hopefully it wont leak out again, lol
also decided to do something about the ac drain before it became an issue. used a hole saw and drilled a hole to access the drain tube from the fender then added a piece of old preformed heater hose i had at the shop so that the water drains out in the fender instead of inside the body structure. working great!
1993 Jeep ZJ Laredo 4.0L/42RE 242 4x4. 3" springs. Front and rear RC tubular lowers. Rusty's adjustable rear uppers. RE double-sheer front track bar. JKS adjustable rear track bar. Bilstein 5100s. 31" Falken Rocky Mountain A/T. 15" Eagle wheels. V8 steering linkage.
Yesterday me and a friend replaced the track bar (got 65mph death wobble on the way back from the used car lot) and muffler (the one on it is rusted). Im buying a new Serp belt (is screeching) and a valve cover gasket (its leaking) today. Fixed the truck latch (wouldn't open).