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Unread 05-13-2013, 09:16 PM   #22636
SCZJ
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Location: Gainesville, Georgia
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Did all the removal stuff to replace my water pump. Cleaned the engine and swapped the water pump studs and bypass tube. All ready to put it back together tomorrow.

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Unread 05-14-2013, 04:08 AM   #22637
ejschultz
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1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Crown Point, Indiana
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Between this

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/en...g-read-663777/

and this

http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

you should have everything you need for an alignment. The 4x4xplor link says to turn the tie rod, not the adjusting sleeve. TJs have adjusting sleeves and TREs on both ends of the main shaft of the TRE. V8 ZJs don't. I can't say I'm familiar with the I6 ZJs though. I know they have a different tie rod setup. The idea is there though and it's a really easy adjustment to make. Keep in mind, for the 249, 0 toe is optimal. Neither of those links mention that because the 249 never came in TJs.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 06:32 AM   #22638
PeteNnewburg
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
Between this

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/en...g-read-663777/

and this

http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

you should have everything you need for an alignment. The 4x4xplor link says to turn the tie rod, not the adjusting sleeve. TJs have adjusting sleeves and TREs on both ends of the main shaft of the TRE. V8 ZJs don't. I can't say I'm familiar with the I6 ZJs though. I know they have a different tie rod setup. The idea is there though and it's a really easy adjustment to make. Keep in mind, for the 249, 0 toe is optimal. Neither of those links mention that because the 249 never came in TJs.
Thank You!
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1998 Mustang GT
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Unread 05-14-2013, 06:49 AM   #22639
speedbucket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freestyle713 View Post
Well I'm assuming the empty resevoir before I started bleeding something to do with it, but I did bleed all 4 brakes. And no, no proportioning valve. Do I need one?
Assuming you don't have a leak.....
I would bleed them again or have it pressure bled.
I assumed going from drums to disc needed a prop valve.
My thinking is if no prop valve there, then the same line pressure is going to the rear as the front.
So in a hard braking situation where vehicle weight ends up on the front, the rear (being lighter ,but having the same line pressure )will lock up which leads to instability. Same reason a lot of late model trucks had abs on the rear only, so your *** won't try to pass your front when it locks up. I was just going to do a t block prop valve back on the rear axle.
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V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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Unread 05-14-2013, 07:07 AM   #22640
comptiger5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
Keep in mind, for the 249, 0 toe is optimal. Neither of those links mention that because the 249 never came in TJs.
Regardless of t-case, I'd shoot for as close to 0 toe as possible if the TREs, etc. are in good shape. It's got a slightly increased death wobble risk, but will help gas mileage and tire wear slightly.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 07:49 AM   #22641
PeteNnewburg
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1995 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
Regardless of t-case, I'd shoot for as close to 0 toe as possible if the TREs, etc. are in good shape. It's got a slightly increased death wobble risk, but will help gas mileage and tire wear slightly.
PO had installed a new draglink, steering wheel is off center. There are a few strange repairs the PO did that I will repair correctly, if possible.
I am replacing the CAs, cam bolts, 2 BB and shocks. Currently it does drive ok, but it does like to dart around a bit. I have not checked the TREs or ball joints yet. With 220,000 miles I figure the steering box could stand some adjusting.
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1995 ZJ DD, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/95-zj-dd-1470403/
2000 Cherokee, http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/plain-jane-00-xj-slower-build-1555543/
1998 Mustang GT
'89 F150, 4" Rancho
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:14 AM   #22642
OldManTan
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Redlands, Ca
Posts: 276
finally pulled it out of the driveway..
got the new radiator in and almost done with the Taurus e-fan swap. need to check my connectors, low speed will not kick on at 195, but high will kick on at 210...
also leaking trans fluid at the radiator connection.. will never be done
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #22643
AnotherRedZj
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1997 ZJ 
 
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Location: fort walton beach, fl
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Dumped about half a 20oz redbull between the seat and. Console, all over my reservation maps too! Doh.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:39 AM   #22644
comptiger5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManTan View Post
finally pulled it out of the driveway..
got the new radiator in and almost done with the Taurus e-fan swap. need to check my connectors, low speed will not kick on at 195, but high will kick on at 210...
also leaking trans fluid at the radiator connection.. will never be done
If you're running the stock 195* t-stat, you should be aiming for low to come on at 210 and high at 215 - 220. If low comes on at 195 or 200, it'll never shut off once the Jeep warms up.

195 and 205 - 210 are good set points for a 180* t-stat though.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:47 AM   #22645
95knight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post

Should be about 1 quart from the add line to the full line.
I added a quart on 5.2 and only half way up now. Im was confused too cause i thought it was 1qt on all cars?
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:56 AM   #22646
comptiger5000
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Originally Posted by 95knight View Post
I added a quart on 5.2 and only half way up now. Im was confused too cause i thought it was 1qt on all cars?
How long did you wait between adding and checking? The oil may have still been draining down to the pan, or it's possible you didn't get a good read the first time. It's definitely 1 quart between the lines on my 5.9.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:57 AM   #22647
OldManTan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
If you're running the stock 195* t-stat, you should be aiming for low to come on at 210 and high at 215 - 220. If low comes on at 195 or 200, it'll never shut off once the Jeep warms up.

195 and 205 - 210 are good set points for a 180* t-stat though.
should have added:
Currently have a 180 thermostat in the jeep right now. I live in southern Crapifornia and really want the jeep to stay cool in the summer. starting to warm up... was 106 yesterday.

Just checked the BMW thermo switch I used. 195 low signal, 210 F high signal. 180 thermostat.
Think I am on to something here? or DOING IT WRONGGG! haha
thanks for the tips!
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Unread 05-14-2013, 09:13 AM   #22648
95knight
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post

How long did you wait between adding and checking? The oil may have still been draining down to the pan, or it's possible you didn't get a good read the first time. It's definitely 1 quart between the lines on my 5.9.
Well drove home let it sit 2+hrs checked it, added lil under a quart actually like 28-30oz (still alot tho) then ran it. Then atleast 2 hrs again because i cooked steaks ate and watched some Fast N Loud.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 09:16 AM   #22649
comptiger5000
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManTan View Post
should have added:
Currently have a 180 thermostat in the jeep right now. I live in southern Crapifornia and really want the jeep to stay cool in the summer. starting to warm up... was 106 yesterday.

Just checked the BMW thermo switch I used. 195 low signal, 210 F high signal. 180 thermostat.
Think I am on to something here? or DOING IT WRONGGG! haha
thanks for the tips!
That sounds like a solid plan.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 09:35 AM   #22650
OldManTan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
That sounds like a solid plan.
<- wipes sweat from brow
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