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What did you do to your ZJ today?

4M views 55K replies 2K participants last post by  98ZJ 
#1 ·
This thread is to serve as an inspiration to others modifying their ZJ's. Pretty simple, just post what you did to your ZJ today!


Today I shamefully took my Jeep to get the oil changed because it was to hot to change it myself.
 
#27,322 ·
When comparing brands of parts, there is no quantitative data. There's just the experience of many people coming to similar conclusions.

Champion plugs are really good for Chrysler vehicles. Champion is also the number one manufacturer of ignition components for small engines.
What plugs do you recommend then for the 4.SLOW???
 
#27,323 ·
So then, with all the spark plug talk going on, what are the best plugs to use on my 4.SLOW? I haev a 99 WJ Intake, header, full 2.5" exhaust.......

BTW, I made this thread back in 4/2011 regarding spark plugs.... A must look!!

So I'm not here to start anything, I jsut wanted to post up what is going on another forum that I visit everyday. Granted it isn't jeep related, it's related to my Trans Am (LSx motors) but hey we all use plug wires...

So Granatelli (GMS) made a thread claiming that their wires have a 0 ohm drop when you measure their wire on a voltmeter. Here is how they advertise their wires..
  • Direct OEM replacement, exceeds OEM specifications, OBD-II computer safe
  • Increase power to the spark plug up to 400% over stock
  • Customers have reported up to 15 hp (normally aspirated) & 35 hp (s/c, turbo, & nitrous). Average gains on an otherwise stock motor are 5 hp N/A and 12 hp to 15 hp with factory forced induction
  • 0 Ohm resistance, no RFI / EMI interference thanks to patented protector ring
  • Patented* design works with all fuel injection systems, street cars and race cars
  • Solid stainless connector cable with stainless snap lock spark plug connectors
  • High temperature silicone boots, 8MM jacket with fiberglass-reinforced braid resists temperatures up to 500°F (1200°F. boots optional).
  • Ideal for use with aftermarket headers and/or turbocharger systems
  • Includes all necessary hardware
  • Over 600 fitments!
* Granatelli O ohm wires are patent protected by United States Patent number 7,185,622. This patent covers our unique method of producing ignition wires of extremely low resistance while maintaining very high noise suppression. The benefit of this invention is that full electrical energy from the ignition source is transmitted to the spark plug. The end result of the application of this method is increased horsepower, torque and fuel economy.

So a lot of people on the website bashed him calling BS and started a ruckus. So all GMS did was back his product up. He posted 3 videos of just a wire swap on a Vette, 03/04 Cobra and a Ford GT40 where they all gained +10 RWHP and +15 RWTQ. This was on back to back dynos with hardly any cool down time, in fact they made sure the operating temp was the same as the first run so there was no variations.

Here is a video that GMS posted using an MSD board to test ohm drop. There was 8 wires tested, all stated in the video and displayed. #2 being wire bing tested was magnecore wires :( very bad.. They experienced an 1600 ohm drop..

So the purpose of me making this thread is, again not start any problems, but to get eduacated.

With that being said, I am using Magnecore wires bc I was sold on how awesome they were, then I saw the tests.. And it wasn't good for them. So here's the video

Thanks guys for listening

 
#27,326 ·
This!
Wet sanded with 1000 grit first, then Polished. They look brand new in person.
When I wet sanded my headlights, this is what I did.

started off using 600 grit going up and down

switched to 800 grit going left to right

switched to 1000 grit going up and down

finished with 1200 grit going left to right

Polished with Meguiar's PlastiX
 
#27,327 ·
So then, with all the spark plug talk going on, what are the best plugs to use on my 4.SLOW? I haev a 99 WJ Intake, header, full 2.5" exhaust.......

BTW, I made this thread back in 4/2011 regarding spark plugs.... A must look!!

So I'm not here to start anything, I jsut wanted to post up what is going on another forum that I visit everyday. Granted it isn't jeep related, it's related to my Trans Am (LSx motors) but hey we all use plug wires...

So Granatelli (GMS) made a thread claiming that their wires have a 0 ohm drop when you measure their wire on a voltmeter. Here is how they advertise their wires..

[*]Direct OEM replacement, exceeds OEM specifications, OBD-II computer safe
[*]Increase power to the spark plug up to 400% over stock
[*]Customers have reported up to 15 hp (normally aspirated) & 35 hp (s/c, turbo, & nitrous). Average gains on an otherwise stock motor are 5 hp N/A and 12 hp to 15 hp with factory forced induction
[*]0 Ohm resistance, no RFI / EMI interference thanks to patented protector ring
[*]Patented* design works with all fuel injection systems, street cars and race cars
[*]Solid stainless connector cable with stainless snap lock spark plug connectors
[*]High temperature silicone boots, 8MM jacket with fiberglass-reinforced braid resists temperatures up to 500°F (1200°F. boots optional).
[*]Ideal for use with aftermarket headers and/or turbocharger systems
[*]Includes all necessary hardware
[*]Over 600 fitments!

* Granatelli O ohm wires are patent protected by United States Patent number 7,185,622. This patent covers our unique method of producing ignition wires of extremely low resistance while maintaining very high noise suppression. The benefit of this invention is that full electrical energy from the ignition source is transmitted to the spark plug. The end result of the application of this method is increased horsepower, torque and fuel economy.

So a lot of people on the website bashed him calling BS and started a ruckus. So all GMS did was back his product up. He posted 3 videos of just a wire swap on a Vette, 03/04 Cobra and a Ford GT40 where they all gained +10 RWHP and +15 RWTQ. This was on back to back dynos with hardly any cool down time, in fact they made sure the operating temp was the same as the first run so there was no variations.

Here is a video that GMS posted using an MSD board to test ohm drop. There was 8 wires tested, all stated in the video and displayed. #2 being wire bing tested was magnecore wires :( very bad.. They experienced an 1600 ohm drop..

So the purpose of me making this thread is, again not start any problems, but to get eduacated.

With that being said, I am using Magnecore wires bc I was sold on how awesome they were, then I saw the tests.. And it wasn't good for them. So here's the video

Thanks guys for listening

Video Link:

Copper plugd
 
#27,331 ·
I mocked up my jcr stage 3 sliders. Took a little undercoating off that was in the way of the mounting plate. And I drilled all the mounting holes. Tomorrow I'll paint all the holes and start painting the sliders.





I installed my cb, fender mount, and coax. But I think I got a bad swr meter. I'm not getting a reading. So on Monday I'll go get another one and see if everything is wired properly.
 
#27,333 ·
Autolite or Champion copper plugs are the way to go. OEM plugs are copper, run copper. General rule of thimb is run what it came with stock. if the factory used copper, use copper. If the factory ran platinum, run platinum.
 
#27,336 ·
Can someone please direct me to a Taurus E-fan installation and parts list write up please! And I need the most basic witing write up ever. Unless its a stereo and subs I suck with electrical. Haha

Thanks guys!
You can check my build on here or speedfreaks. I think I have more pics over there. I can get you a parts list and a schematic I designed for my application if you decide you want it the same way I have mine. Low works automatically and high is switched. When the switch (3way) is off, the fan won't turn on at all.
 
#27,337 ·
You can check my build on here or speedfreaks. I think I have more pics over there. I can get you a parts list and a schematic I designed for my application if you decide you want it the same way I have mine. Low works automatically and high is switched. When the switch (3way) is off, the fan won't turn on at all.
I appreciate it and ill definitely look through your write up but I think from everything I've seen I'm going to do a 3way switch for both high and low. Just seema a little mote basic. How did you make low automatic? A sensor? Either way I'd def like to look through what you have. Think I'm going to do a little more research and planning before I dive into this considering its my DD.
 
#27,338 ·
So for the past few months my steering has been popping whenever I turn, I assumed it was ball joints for the longest time and just drove as was. Finally yesterday I went and bought new ball joints to replace mine, however I figured I'd check the suspension before I start tearing it down, just in case it was something else. I had a buddy turn the wheel back and forth the imitate the pop while I watched the steering, after a little observation I noticed the trackbar bracket was moving! :eek: Pulled out a ratchet, one half turn on each bolt and it was tight and snug, plus no more popping. I feel like a ******* driving with it like that for the past few months. Hopefully it didn't wallow out the track bar holes in the frame rail too much.

Oh well, long story short I'm just glad I was able to return the ball joints and get all that $ back :thumbsup:
 
#27,339 ·
I appreciate it and ill definitely look through your write up but I think from everything I've seen I'm going to do a 3way switch for both high and low. Just seema a little mote basic. How did you make low automatic? A sensor? Either way I'd def like to look through what you have. Think I'm going to do a little more research and planning before I dive into this considering its my DD.
My switch is an on/off/on switch. I have one side on a fan controller for the low speed. The controller has an ignition wire so it only comes on on when the vehicle is on. I hooked that to my switch so I can kill power if needed. The other side of the switch is hooked to a 70 amp relay for the high speed. I figured instead of buying a relay for the low speed, I'd just get a controller that comes with the relay. For normal driving, and especially when someone other than me drives my ZJ, I just leave it on auto. I haven't had to use high. I'd imagine I'll only need to use it when wheeling in the summer. The switch gets its power from a "create a circuit" fuse adapter with one of the cigar fuses. The fan can only turn on when the Jeep is on because of that.
 
#27,340 ·
Using a switch is great till you foget to kick the fan on one day in traffic on a nice hot summer day. Do it right, play it safe, use an automatic switch.
 
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