I replaced the RH front hub/ bearing this afternoon. It went very well, everything is torqued to spec, Loc-tite added, greased all the front end zerks with Valvoline Synthetic. A couple of the zerks needed to be persuaded, one puked muddy looking grease. None of the joints deflected with the fresh grease/ pump pressure! Amazing how quiet it is!
Huge amount of thanks to the FAQ tips!! I used my spare tire to keep the hub stationary; my ½” IR impact zipped the hub nut off dang near instantly. I used a 3/8” impact and spline sockets on the hub mounting bolts, zip & done! If you turn the tire by hand and not by the steering wheel, be prepared for air in your PS System!
I did notice that the disc brake pad mounts on the spindles had groves cut into them by the pad backing plates. I’ll have to run a weld bead on them and re-machine that area.
A quick note on air impact tools, they can only be as good as your compressor. A Ingersoll Rand middle to top of the line impact needs a lot more than 4 – 6cfm (as noted in a previous post). Most Impact’s (the butt kickin, nut bustin type) need a minimum of 7 – 11cfm @ 125 – 150 PSI or more. If you want a high quality, powerful shop tool, skip HF, and spend the money. You’ll have no regrets, less aggravation and perform better work. There are a lot of very good electric/ corded impacts. If you want a cordless, rechargeable, Snap-On’s 18v is awesome. Breaking suspensions down is easy with that brute!
1983 Ranger 5.0