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post #20221 of Old 02-18-2013, 09:39 PM
WhiteOut
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The flattened part is supposed to be there.

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post #20222 of Old 02-18-2013, 10:17 PM
Afdude88
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1998 ZJ 
 
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But can you run a tailpipe without it?

1993 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L AW-4

1998 Grand Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 42RE, np249 (ugh), stock (ugh)
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post #20223 of Old 02-18-2013, 10:23 PM
csouers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Afdude88 View Post
But can you run a tailpipe without it?

1993 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L AW-4
It might hit stuff if it's not. It's there for a reason. Leave it alone. You're not going to notice on a 4.0l. It's slow even with mods.

1998 Bright Platinum ZJ 5.9 Limited - 5.9l, 46RE, NV-242, D30/44a (Trac-Loc) w/3.73s - The DD
1999 White XJ Sport - 4.0l, AW4, NP-231, D30/8.25 w/3.55s - The Rig

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post #20224 of Old 02-18-2013, 10:48 PM
comptiger5000
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You certainly don't need the flat spot if it's routed correctly. I've got a 3" tailpipe in there with no flat spots or anything and it clears the track bar and such just fine.
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post #20225 of Old 02-18-2013, 10:49 PM
torchd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz
It's actually pretty quick and painless. If I wasn't up in Green Bay, I'd do it for you.

I guess kinda on topic, my Aussie came today. I won't be installing it today though, obviously.
Is it hard to take that whole section out that has the headlights, fog lights and dimmer switch??

Seems like remove wood grain panel, and maybe 4 screws to hold that switch panel in place and unhook some wire connectors??

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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
2" BB Pucks | SkyJacker Hydro Shocks | Rubicon Wheels | Cooper 245/75/16 Tires

2002 Trans Am
Cam, Full Exhaust, Stock Heads, Stock LS6 Intake and Stock 10 bolt with 3.42s
420 RWHP and 382 RWHTQ
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post #20226 of Old 02-18-2013, 11:15 PM
JColee
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Noticed a nasty little streak of bubbled rust on my passenger side rocker. Sad indeed. Any efficient way to combat this?
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post #20227 of Old 02-18-2013, 11:19 PM
torchd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torchd
It all started with my blinker on the dash not always working. Meaning I would turn on the blinker, the light would come on the dash but wouldn't always flash on and off. Sometimes it would flash on and off and some times it wouldn't. Then the turn singnal would stay solid on the dash when turned on. All the turn signal lights front and rear work when it is turned on.

Then lately I started noticing my dash lights dimming and brightening on their own. Kind of flickering, not noticable but I caught it.

Then last night, my dashboard lights and HVAC just stopped illuminating. Then if I turned my turn signal on, and if the turn signal decided to flas on and off, it would make all my dash lights and HVAC lights turn on and off with my turn signal. Or is my turn signal stayed solid on the dash, all my dashboard lights and HVAC lights remained solidly lit as well.

Also, if I applied my breaks, my dashboard lights and HVAC lights would flicker on and off......

Stupid electrical issues. Does anyone know how to fix this?
I added more problems that I've encountered!!!


Ok some more things I noticed.

This is all happens when the head light switch is in the AUTO position!!

-As you saw in the video ALL lights are out (dash board, HVAC, GDM, Drive selector [P R N D 2 1], and all my Selec-Trac lights)

-Radio still lights up on its own

-When my head lights are on, in the auto position or manual position, my tail lights DO NOT light up. Got stopped tonight from a LEO to warn me.

-Break lights still light up as normal when you press the break pedal

-When the head lights are in the AUTO position and you tap the breaks, ALL lights that are mentioned in the first part of list and as seen in the video all flicker, turn on and off.

-When the head lights are in the MANUAL position, when I hit the break pedal, none of the above mentioned happens. All lights remain off

-When head light switch remains in the MANUAL position, when you go to open the drivers side door, the chime to let you know that your head lights are still on doesn't go off at all

I think that is all that I've noticed and that I can think of for now.

All my above problems that I mentioned and what you've seen In the video, is that all related to the head light, dimmer and fog light switch??

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1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
2" BB Pucks | SkyJacker Hydro Shocks | Rubicon Wheels | Cooper 245/75/16 Tires

2002 Trans Am
Cam, Full Exhaust, Stock Heads, Stock LS6 Intake and Stock 10 bolt with 3.42s
420 RWHP and 382 RWHTQ
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post #20228 of Old 02-18-2013, 11:34 PM
Afdude88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000 View Post
You certainly don't need the flat spot if it's routed correctly. I've got a 3" tailpipe in there with no flat spots or anything and it clears the track bar and such just fine.
Thanks, ill talk to a local exhaust shop about making me one then. I only have stock sized piping, even after a new cat and muffler (don't have a real need to up the size) so I definitely shouldn't have clearance issues then if you don't with your 3" tailpipe.

I just don't like flat spots in an exhaust. Especially if you can route it with em.

Thanks again for the info

1993 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L AW-4

1998 Grand Cherokee: 4.0L I6, 42RE, np249 (ugh), stock (ugh)
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post #20229 of Old 02-19-2013, 05:09 AM
ejschultz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torchd View Post
I added more problems that I've encountered!!!


Ok some more things I noticed.

This is all happens when the head light switch is in the AUTO position!!

-As you saw in the video ALL lights are out (dash board, HVAC, GDM, Drive selector [P R N D 2 1], and all my Selec-Trac lights)

-Radio still lights up on its own

-When my head lights are on, in the auto position or manual position, my tail lights DO NOT light up. Got stopped tonight from a LEO to warn me.

-Break lights still light up as normal when you press the break pedal

-When the head lights are in the AUTO position and you tap the breaks, ALL lights that are mentioned in the first part of list and as seen in the video all flicker, turn on and off.

-When the head lights are in the MANUAL position, when I hit the break pedal, none of the above mentioned happens. All lights remain off

-When head light switch remains in the MANUAL position, when you go to open the drivers side door, the chime to let you know that your head lights are still on doesn't go off at all

I think that is all that I've noticed and that I can think of for now.

All my above problems that I mentioned and what you've seen In the video, is that all related to the head light, dimmer and fog light switch??

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With the exterior lights messing up like that, it might be more than just the dimmer. I still say the dimmer is bad, but you have something else going on as well. I guess it could be the whole switch. I don't believe there's a fix for the whole switch. I've got an extra switch somewhere at home with a known bad dimmer. I could fix it an let you have it. I don't have a need for it. It may or may not fix your issue but it's worth a try.


Oh, an taking the switch out is a little more involved than removing the faux wood trim. The whole bottom section of the dash needs to come out to access the bottom screws holding it in. Again, that's something I'd be willing to do for you.

97 ZJ - 5.2L, 242, 4" IRO lift w/short arms & adj. TBs, JKS Discos/BPEs, DT3000s, Aussie'd 44A, sliders, OEM skids/hooks/hitch, 31" Duratracs on 15x8s
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post #20230 of Old 02-19-2013, 05:28 AM
mandrews000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz
It's actually pretty quick and painless. If I wasn't up in Green Bay, I'd do it for you.

I guess kinda on topic, my Aussie came today. I won't be installing it today though, obviously.
Aussim! I have heard the installation is quicker than a break job...

On topic, about to drive it to work. it's been sitting for two weeks.
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post #20231 of Old 02-19-2013, 05:46 AM
PeteNnewburg
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I hooked up a hose to my kitchen faucet and washed the under carraige with hot water. I also washed inside the cladding, bumper covers, fender liners and door jambs as best as I could get. I noted that virtually all the bushings are rotten; the exhaust while intact is loose in the hangers. Very little rust, I can see some rust under the RH rear cladding and the rear bumper brackets.
I also noticed I do not have a rear sway bar! I'll have to hit the JY to get a bar and all related brackets. It would be nice to get the addco sway bar but that money will be better suited to a complete energy or prothane bushing kit I think. The exhaust system is really small, I see a 2.5 system in the "summer mods".

If anybody has a complete rear swaybar set up cheap, shoot me a PM!

Then I had to salt the driveway!

2000 Cherokee
1983 Ranger 5.0
1998 Mustang

Last edited by PeteNnewburg; 02-19-2013 at 06:36 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #20232 of Old 02-19-2013, 08:55 AM
torchd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
With the exterior lights messing up like that, it might be more than just the dimmer. I still say the dimmer is bad, but you have something else going on as well. I guess it could be the whole switch. I don't believe there's a fix for the whole switch. I've got an extra switch somewhere at home with a known bad dimmer. I could fix it an let you have it. I don't have a need for it. It may or may not fix your issue but it's worth a try.


Oh, an taking the switch out is a little more involved than removing the faux wood trim. The whole bottom section of the dash needs to come out to access the bottom screws holding it in. Again, that's something I'd be willing to do for you.
As for the exterior lights, you're talking about my tail lights? Well, as soon as I lost my dash board lights, etc... That's when my tail lights stopped working.. Again my break lights work.. So I'm hoping that switch has something to do with it?

As for removing the lower portion of the dash, is there a write up on that? I wouldn't mind using the help as well. You're not to far from me.

Let me know. thanks

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo
2" BB Pucks | SkyJacker Hydro Shocks | Rubicon Wheels | Cooper 245/75/16 Tires

2002 Trans Am
Cam, Full Exhaust, Stock Heads, Stock LS6 Intake and Stock 10 bolt with 3.42s
420 RWHP and 382 RWHTQ
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post #20233 of Old 02-19-2013, 09:22 AM
Freestyle713
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Got waved at by not 1, but 2 wranglers yesterday. I was amazed.

94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 33in. Federal Couragia M/T's on Procomp Steelies, np231 swap, IRO Hack n Tap SYE, Carolina Driveshaft, 4.5 in. lift, RE front upper/rear lower ca's, RC front lowers, Ironman rear uppers, IRO 4.5 coils in rear, 3.5 and 2" bb (no isolators) in front, Bilstein 5100's, Clayton/JKS adj. track bars, KOR rad support and SS, Magnaflow/Flowmaster exhaust, clear corners, custom light bar w/ Hella 500's

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post #20234 of Old 02-19-2013, 09:41 AM
970001zj
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got my can of moss green mopar spray paint !

97 zj orvis/04 wj ltd
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post #20235 of Old 02-19-2013, 10:49 AM
dunkeye11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 970001zj
got my can of moss green mopar spray paint !
How big and how much
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