[nitecop]

Originally Posted by greasefingers

No I do not think that the cts would prevent normal starting times.

This probiblely the most influentual sensor for a cold start. It tells the computer how cold or hot (depening upon your view) the engine is so that it can send the proper amount of fuel.
If the temp is as low as 20F It can need as much as 3 to 1 ratio mix (it is known that at fulltemp (195f) 14.7 air to fuel is best in most situations.

[ZJcrawler45]

Having the exact same problems as you. How do i check fuel pressure and where is the CTS located at? Also where is a good place to get one?

[jeepunlimited]

i got mine from the local part store, set me back 15 bucks ......its on the thermostat housing , look at the front of the engine right on the top front, by the fan, you will see a housing that has a sensor and a heater line going to it , that sensor is the coolant temp sensor

[ZJcrawler45]

Also how do i check fuel pressure?>

[jeepunlimited]

get a fuel pressure gauge, abotu 25 bucks at the local part store, there is a nipple one the fuel rail that has a threaded fitting, install the proper fitting onto this nipple and hook the gauge all up, i know it sounds confusing but its simple when you get into it, start the jeep up and observe the fuel pressure on the gauge, also prime the pump first to be sure you dont have any leaks !!

[ZJcrawler45]

ok thanks, i was just researching a bit on the CTS and found out that a symptom of it is the jeep taking forever to warm up, which is exactly what mine does. I can't remember the last time i saw my jeep reach 190 degreez. I hope the CTS is my problem also.

[greasefingers]

The coolant temperature sensor is probably the one of most dependable sensors it has. So test it first before replacing it.

[ZJcrawler45]

how do you test it?

[nitecop]

With a multimeter using this graph.

Originally Posted by greasefingers

The coolant sensor for the PCM is the one on the thermostat housing.

[lma1973]

I just (within the last week) changed my TPS and IAC and my jeep runs much smoother now and "seems" to be quite a bit more responsive- especially on low end/take off.

If i was smoking those civics with coffee can exhausts before-watch out! Hehe

[ZJcrawler45]

where do i get a multimeter? can i get these through autozones loan a tool?

[fotonm]

After having this same problem on my 94 with a 5.2 I changed EVERYTHING that people have been talking about on here the TPS, New Tranny, New fuel filter, New fuel pressure regulator. Sometimes it would run great then other times just very sluggish and especially between about 1000 to the 2000 rpm mark. It didnt matter if it was hot or cold just very frustrating and intermittent.

Well I started to suspect a vacuum leak. While monkeying with the vacuum lines and wiggling them I got a surge and thought I was on to it. It wasn't the vacuum after all.

It was the wires that go into the TPS and when I would wiggle them it would surge and even cut off the engine. I unplugged it and Ohmed out the wires while my ohm meter was plugged into and wiggled the wires and I didnt get any Resistance drop. I figure out that the pin that comes out from the ground part of the TPS was not making a good contact with the connector. When it was not making a good solid contact I would get the problem.

You can fix this one of two ways.... you can replace the entire plug assembly to one where the female end of the connectors make a better contact or you can take up the slack in the now too loose female end with a small piece of wire inserted into the tooled out female end (lol) and now it wont be like a hotdog in a hallway and will make a good ground. Plugged it all back in and now runs like it should with full power all the way through the spectrum.

This worked for me so you may try this!! Its a connection and grounding problem not an actual prob with any of the devices.

if your grounding and connections in that TPS are not solid it spikes all up and down sending the wrong voltage to the rest of the injection system.