Water Pump is leaking, what should i do ? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 05:05 AM
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1997 ZJ 
Join Date: Aug 2011
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While the car is still running go to the hardware and get a copper scraper, go to the car parts and get a solvent to remove any of the sealer you have now used. Get the right size socket for the bolts, Remember you have to take the fan off, I use a Pipe wrench, New sealant, I would not use what I indicated above. The stuff really worked, I have to use lacquer thinner to get if off. I would use RTV sealant, read the can before putting it on. Get a Haynes, Jeep Grand Cherokee, 1993 through 2004, All models, Repair Manual. Do the work when you do not need the car for several days. Take your time, remember that Mr. Murphy is with you every step of the way for your personal comfort. Use the water pump you have. O, and loosen and tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Page 0-9.

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post #17 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 08:12 AM
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Advance auto has the water pump for less than $60 online

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post #18 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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1998 ZJ 
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dpsoup . I just dont want to buy a new pump mine doesnt leak outa the weep hole or make any noise, its just leaking outa the gasket we replaced.

Anyway gunner44, The old/new gasket shouldnt need to be scrapped off but we'll see, because for the old/old gasket before it we used one of those power tools he had with a sanding like attachment to remove all the old gasket off. I dont know the name of the round sander thing.. its those things that i see all mechanics use to clean gasket surfaces.

Anyway, going to the store now gonna buy a new gasket, some permatax right stuff, and some coolant. Another Q i have, is do I really need to torque these bolts down with a torque wrench, since my friend left and took all his tools i dont have access to one, and stores dont rent em. Since im strapped for cash i dont want to buy a $60 torque wrench right now. I was just going to tighten the 7 bolts in a pattern with a normal socket wrench.
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post #19 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 12:13 PM
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If you can estimate that amount of torque by hand then you don't need a torque wrench. Water pumps are generally not critical applications. And definitely lay a straight edge across the flange, it only takes a millimeter of bend and you've got a leaker. Sealer is not a substitute for straight, clean flanges and honestly you shouldn't need any sealer for the gasket, only for bolt threads that tap into the water jacket.

Consider assembling enough to add coolant, then run the engine til it's 100 degrees. Allow cooldown then retorque. This is overkill but since you're working with a problem leaker it's worth considering if the work schedule allows it.

Good luck
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post #20 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 03:10 PM
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I don’t know how to answer your question. I am tempted to get technical, but this is not the place. Just remember "If you can't do the time, don’t do the crime". I just half to cushion though, torquing is done as much to tighten as it is to prevent over tightening.

Good luck to you.
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post #21 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 09:18 PM
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Why take it off for the second time and not replace the pump? I'd like to have said, "Have Mr. Peabody take you in his "Wayback Machine" and redo it right the first time." I think I've just dated myself.
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post #22 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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1998 ZJ 
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I just bought a new pump today actually, it was only $60 whatever, now im poor and my mom is pissed was suppose to be for bills. I got it all together, but that metal tube that goes into the water pump on the drivers side... has an o ring and its leaking bad outa that, the O ring is torn. I bought a o ring kit for $8 but none of them work.. 2 of them fit, one is a thick O ring but i cant for the love of god get it into the hole.. The other is a thin one but it just leaks when i put it in..

This O ring thing has been taking more time up then replacing the water pump... Does anyone know what size the o ring is ?? Cause like im gonna bash my head against a wall, i can believe this one little thing is causing so many problems..
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post #23 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 10:13 PM
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The new water pump should have come with a new O ring. Go back to the parts store and have them give you an O ring out of another pump box.

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post #24 of 25 Old 08-24-2011, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JrMechanic View Post
The new water pump should have come with a new O ring. Go back to the parts store and have them give you an O ring out of another pump box.

It was a brand new pump from DMB i believe, all it came with was a gasket and no 0 ring. Thats why i bought the O ring kit when i was there because I had the same problem before when my friend and I replaced my timing cover gasket.. the felpro kit had a o ring in it, but my friend tore it lol.. i dunno how he managed but he got one of those thick o rings on that i tore in half.. gah this is so frustrating.

Guess I'll go back and see what i can do.. tomarow..

Oh and another thing, i noticed my power steering pump the plastic inside on the pully is cracked. You know the 3 holes where you put the socket through to remove the 3 bolts the plastic is cracked right there on both sides. When i was getting rdy to remove the pump bolts i noticed it was cracked. Just on the inside tho, not the part where the belt attachs too. Can the pully be replaced without replacing the whole pump ?
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post #25 of 25 Old 08-25-2011, 04:49 AM
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If you decide on a aftermarket pump,eyeball it carefully for casting defects. Seen it alot lately.
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