Urgent help please - brake smoking after brake job - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
RoldGold
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Urgent help please - brake smoking after brake job

So as of yesterday I put on new rear rotors and pads, and new front rotors (keeping the pads that were on there). Since having the new brake parts installed, I've driven to school (12 minutes, 5 miles), where I didn't notice anything peculiar. Then from school I drove to a park (30 minutes, 25 miles, often speeds above 55mph). When I got to the park I noticed that there was smoke pouring out of my rear right wheel. My first instinct was that the caliper was sticking. I could feel the heat being radiated from that wheel from almost 2 feet away, and it smelled very strongly like tires burning.


Then I drove home from the park (about 40 minute drive, and after letting everything cool down for a couple hours) and while that wheel was slightly hotter than the others, it was just barely noticeable. It also was not smoking. I did notice that particular rotor has a lot more wear on it then the rotor on the other side of that axle.

Any way of testing whether the caliper is sticking? I called Advance Auto and they said they coat the rotors in oil to prolong their shelf life, and what I was experiencing was likely the oil being burnt off. I didn't notice any difference in ride quality during any trips, except that the brake pedal has less travel (compared to the old brakes) needed to provide the same stopping power.

Any opinions on what I should do?


1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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post #2 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 04:49 PM
dusterdude
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It aint oil burning off,you somehow have a caliper sticking
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post #3 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 06:24 PM
ZeeJay1997
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did you lube the sleeves so they slide in the bore? were they moving freely?
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post #4 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
RoldGold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeeJay1997 View Post
did you lube the sleeves so they slide in the bore? were they moving freely?
Yes and yes. I went out and spun the wheels by hand with the rear end jacked up, and both sides spin with the same resistance. I can hear something rubbing, I'm not sure what's rubbing but I can definitely hear something that sounds like metal on metal - which would make me think its the rotors/pads that are rubbing.

Why would the caliper stick on one trip and then not stick on another? That doesn't make sense.

1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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post #5 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 06:39 PM
ZeeJay1997
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you probably should pull the wheel and investigate. sounds like something came loose.
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post #6 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 06:47 PM
craddock01
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And u saw all the parking brake hardware inside rotor right nothing in there loose or out of adjustment?
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post #7 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
RoldGold
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I'll see if I can pull the wheel on Friday. I'll have to keep driving it unfortunately. Any ideas on what to look for? I can't imagine anything besides the caliper or pads are loose. I didn't touch anything else.

Parking brake shoes looked old but fine, and I didn't adjust them and had no problem with them and the old rotors, so why would the new rotors pose a problem? I'll still double check while I've got the wheel off though.

1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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post #8 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 07:01 PM
Bear304inc
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What made you change rotors and pads to begin with? Any preexisting problems possibly lingering?
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post #9 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 07:14 PM
OverlandZJ
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Once you pull the wheel look closely and make sure the pads are seated properly. A pad could be hanging up.. taking a close look at the brake lining should give a clue if this is the case.
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post #10 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 07:16 PM
Technohead
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More times than I can remember I have had this happen. This is why I always do pads, rotors, and calipers together.

Sometimes a collapsed brake hose can cause sticking so check the hoses also.
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post #11 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 07:44 PM
craddock01
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Caliper is sticking bank on it rubbing noise is the pad against rotor dragging. Mine smoked like that lubing pins didnt help piston is not releasing. Change both sides may need new pads again too now theyve been overheated
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post #12 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
RoldGold
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Ok, I'm getting 2 reman'ed calipers and putting them in and we'll see how it affects my problem.

I did rotors because the front ones had deep grooving, enough to cause suspicion. The rears were warped, and the rear pads were pretty thin and it's getting inspected soon.

What do you Overland, a pad could be "hanging up"? On what?

Short of taking the hose off Technohead, how can I tell if it's collapsed?

What's the likelihood that I've already warped my brand new rotor because of the heat?

1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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post #13 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 11:24 PM
power
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Sometimes what happens to old rubber brake hoses when they degrade is they kind of swell up inside. You can't really tell from the outside. The pressure when applying the brake gets through the blocked hose but when you release the brake pedal the pressure is blocked from the swelled hose and it keeps the caliper piston applied. I think the only way to tell is remove the brake hose and cut it apart to see the swelling/blockage. I would first suspect the calipers and pistons before the hose, but if the hoses are old I would replace them as a maintenance item anyways.

Remember to use proper brake fitting wrenches not your average open end wrench. It is not fun rounding old rusty brake fitting nuts with the wrong wrenches.

94 ZJ,4.0, AX15, NP231
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post #14 of 18 Old 09-11-2013, 11:37 PM
kachink
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Check that the tabs of the pad aren't sticking in notches that your previous pads have worn in the caliper brackets. This is a common zj/xg/tj problem with the fronts. I'm not sure if the rears could do the same thing.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/xj...rooves-924713/
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-14-2013, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
RoldGold
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New rear calipers are on and the system is bled and I put in some new brake fluid. The tabs of the pads aren't sticking in the caliper brackets fortunately. I haven't taken it out for a ride, but while my helper was pumping the brake pedal to bleed the system, I could see the pads grasping the rotor and then releasing, so I'm confident that the new calipers could have only helped. When I replace the front pads, I'll replace the calipers at the same time.

Thanks to everyone who responded to my urgent help request! It's greatly appreciated!

1996 Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L
PSC Steering Gear; NP249 w/ new VC; Moog TRE's, Track Bar, Stabilizer bar bushings and endlinks, control arm bushings
Still no lift, and almost no paint on the hood
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