[drob951]

recently put in a new front axle control arms and all and all new steering setup lately the steering is real loose and i only get dw when i hit a bump and when the steering wheel is straight if the wheel is turned it does not death wobble any ideas???

[-cAcHe-]

track bar....pitman arm......make sure everything is tight...and make sure the hole where the trac bar mounts on is not oval..

[drob951]

ok also when i turn my entire axle makes a click before it turns

[Virmagicus]

So you put in new steering. Has it been aligned ?

[drob951]

no not yet this will be done tomorrow

[Virmagicus]

Sounds good. I don't know if you swapped out the control arms when it was in the air or on the ground but make sure you torque them to spec after it is sitting on the ground. The best way to check the trackbar for tightness is to have someone forcefully push the front end from side to side or turn the steering wheel to the left & right. Look for play in the bushing or mount.

[kwellzz]

track bar....pitman arm......make sure everything is tight...and make sure the hole where the trac bar mounts on is not oval..

What would one do if said holes were oval?

[Virmagicus]

Originally Posted by kwellzz

What would one do if said holes were oval?

Weld a strong washer over the hole. Another option is to get a rear trackbar bushing which is bigger and drill the hole out to 1/2". I did this with my HD trackbar setup. The HD bars use the same outside diameter bushing on the body and axle end. The front and rear trackbars also have the same outside diameter as well. Your best bet is to use poly bushings. They come in two pieces with a sleeve and are a breeze to install.

[Bort62]

I too have seemingly uncurable DW.

I had it slightly w/ the stock suspension - I then added the IRO F>R swap. It got un driveable.

I've since replaced TRE's, Both ends of the drag link, all 4 BJ's, SS, and both hubs. Literally the only component of the front suspension that isn't brand new (and either Mopar or Moog) is the control arm bushings (which look okay).

I found that I was able to tame the DW by adjusting the toe out. W/ any toe in, it is undriveable above ~ 45 mph. If I toe it out it is ~ok. I was able to drive ~800 miles this last weekend w/ an annoying shake at 45 mph but tolerable.

I took it in to get officially aligned last week and they set it to stock specs... I didn't make it 2 blocks down the street from the alignment shop before the entire front end tried to shake off. Because the shop was closed, I had to get out and toe it out on the side of the road to make it home.

So it kinda sounds like we are in the same boat. All new parts, still have DW. What is it that we are missing ?

It is frustrating to have a problem that can't even be solved by money.

[NEp8ntballer]

Originally Posted by Bort62

I too have seemingly uncurable DW.

I had it slightly w/ the stock suspension - I then added the IRO F>R swap. It got un driveable.

I've since replaced TRE's, Both ends of the drag link, all 4 BJ's, SS, and both hubs. Literally the only component of the front suspension that isn't brand new (and either Mopar or Moog) is the control arm bushings (which look okay).

I found that I was able to tame the DW by adjusting the toe out. W/ any toe in, it is undriveable above ~ 45 mph. If I toe it out it is ~ok. I was able to drive ~800 miles this last weekend w/ an annoying shake at 45 mph but tolerable.

I took it in to get officially aligned last week and they set it to stock specs... I didn't make it 2 blocks down the street from the alignment shop before the entire front end tried to shake off. Because the shop was closed, I had to get out and toe it out on the side of the road to make it home.

So it kinda sounds like we are in the same boat. All new parts, still have DW. What is it that we are missing ?

It is frustrating to have a problem that can't even be solved by money.

my local parts store told me they soon will be selling explosives...

[elmer_fud]

Originally Posted by NEp8ntballer

my local parts store told me they soon will be selling explosives...

what type? how much can I get

bort62, I think IRO had differn't alignments specs for thier lift, may not hurt to check those

[ryandavenport]

IRO has different specs for their lift. im going through them to fix all my death wobble problems since i bought the lift from them. its not their fault but i figured they would know what is goin on. i know what you mean by all new parts. ive replaced everything. SS, sway bar, end links, shocks, track bar x2, control arm bushings, control arms. we've finally figured it out. after talking to IRO, they said that sometimes if not enough lift is gained from the front springs moved to back, it messes up the weight balance of the jeep. mine is lower in the back, therefore more weight is in the back. also, my 33 inch tires have made it where im unable to set my caster correctly because the control arms cant be moved back any further. adjustable control arms and a set of small spacers for the rear are goin on tuesday. its then gonna be aligned to IRO specs. hopefully this fixes it. hope it also helps everyone else with their death wobble problems. just remember to be persistent

[newfieZJ]

Funny , everyone says ball joints , or TREs cause DW , but I recently replaced 2 very bad uppers and one bad lower BJ , no DW . Amungst the bad parts was my TRE on my T-bar , outer left TRE , no DW , not even a shakey wheel over bumps . Good shocks? I am still running RRO's hydro 8000 on the frt , certainly not great quality and now , 3 yrs old . When they start to fail , I'll change em out , the rears went 2 months ago .
Before you start spending any more gobs of money , spend $10 on some frame bushings for the SB . They are as important as shocks when it comes to the suspension dapmening system and rarely get seen to . After all , DW is lack of being able to absorb the bumps on the road unless you own a WJ . The difference in road manners is night and day . BTW , you won't see them worn out until they are removed , don't be fooled , they will look fine while installed

The click while turning is probably a bad Ball joint . I just re-did mine again , had a click too , but no more

Also , I fun 1.75 spacers in the frt , 1.25 in the rear to compensate for the weight of the bumper/winch combo and make my ride level , I think Josh and the boys might be on to something . My extra weight on the frt definate translated into a better heavier feeling in the steering wheel .

[ROCKSOLID98XJ]

track bar might be loose and you might want to balance and get an alignment just in case

[gatorayde]

Nice thread rez