Send Message Advertisers Vendors Announcements
Advertise Here
Jeep Forum Classifieds JeepSpace Reviews Gallery Blogs Clubs Groups Videos Wiki Links Events Articles
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Blogs Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Wiki Jeep Links Jeep Events Jeep Articles



Support JF - Equipment Drive and Future Downtime
Go Back   JeepForum.com > Models > Grand Cherokee & Commander Forum Group > ZJ & WJ Technical Forum
Register FAQ Mark Forums Read Search Members


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old05-15-2007, 12:45 AM #1
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
The Ultimate Roof Rack Wiring Guide

Hey everyone,

Well I've seen alot of thread showing how people wired their lights on their roof racks. Some chose the hole through the roof method, some chose down the door method and some chose down the lift gate method.

Personally I couldnt stand the thought of drilling a hole through my roof and then accidently screwing up, although it would look very clean which I like. I also thought that having a bulk of wires running down my drivers door wouldn't look good either.

So I went with the lift gate method.

This is my guide for you guys being such a big help to me. This install is not extremely difficult but if you get frustrated easily, this install may not be for you.

Here we go.

1)Tools & Supplies needed:10mm Socket wrench
13mm Socket wrench
13/16 socket wrench
Standard Philips Screwdriver
Wire stripper & crimper
Electrical tape
Zip ties
Wire loom tubing
16 guage butt splices (or whatever size your using)
150 feet 16 guage wire (or whatever size your using

2) First disconnect the negative wire from your battery

3) Mount your roof rack on your car (if its not already) and then mount your fog or driving lights to your mount that attaches to your rack.

4) Strip about 1/4th of the wire off from your positive and negative wires coming from your lights and your 18 guage wire. Using the butt splices connect +/+, -/- (duh) Next, roll out about 20-25 feet of wire then cut it. Do this however many lights you have, i.e I had 4 lights so i needed 8 butt splices and 100 feet of wire.

5) Now for the disassemly. Start by opening your lift gate and removing the 4 screws around where the door locks.(pic coming) Then remove 1 screw on the left of the ceiling holding the vent in place. Next remove your spare tire (if you have one) unscrew 2 screws near the left side rear seat belt

Once all screws are out remove panel above the rear lift gate shock (pic coming)by simply pulling on it and it will pop out. Next, move to the left rear door and using a 13/16 socket wrench unscrew the bolt that holds the seat belt in place

Then remove panel around the seat belt slider, which in the picture above is right behind it. Use the same method as the last panel, pull and pop.
Once you get the panel off there will be a screw, which you need to take out.

Now right in the middle of the plastic foot panel inside the car there is a screw which also needs to be taken out.

You can now take off the entire panel that covers the left rear tire

6) Now that you have that off, next remove vent on the outside of the car.


There will be a small hole already there, which you can use to run the wire through.

7) Finish wiring and zip tying up the roof rack and cover the wires with wire loom tubing

8) Start to one by one push your wires into that hole and by reaching up through this part
you can grab hold of the wires and string them through. Once all wires are strung through, leave a little slack on the outside for some adjusting.

9) Next start to run your wires through this


Then start wiring them like this




10) Now it is time to remove the rear passenger seat and using you 10mm socket wrench remove the bracket that hold the seat in place (pic coming)

Last edited by th3godf4th3r : 05-15-2007 at 06:31 PM.
th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 12:47 AM #2
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
11) Next remove the drivers seat by unscrewing the 4 bolts holding them down the your 13mm socket wrench, there are 2 screws in the front, 2 in back

After you unscrew them, push the entire seat back and you will see a wire connecting to your seat. Push the red slider to the right


Then pull the harness out and take the seat out of the car.

12) Time to remove all plastic foot paneling. First start by taking out the 3 screws by the drivers side left foot panel


next remove 3 screws in foot panel (pictures starting from front to back)




Then using your 13/16 socket wrench remove seat belt bolt on the floor
th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 12:48 AM #3
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
Next move up and still using your 13/16 wrench remove upper seat belt bolt like you did for the rear


Then remove panel like the rear

After you remove the panel there will be two screws mid way up the pillar, remove them


You can now take the entire foot panel off and get back to your wiring

13) Continue your wiring down to underneath the carpet. Follow the pictures as a guide




You can remove 3 screws from this plastic wire holder


And run your wires in with the others. They will then pop out right here


14) Unless you have done other previous wiring, you will need to make a bigger opening in your firewall. I did not have to do this but if you have to but a 1" circle cutter that goes on a drill and make a hole.

15) Run your wires through your fire wall


and out into the engine compartment
th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 12:49 AM #4
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
16) Run them over to your battery where your fuses should be for the lights and properly crimp your wires

17) HAVE FUN PUTTING EVERYTHING BACK INTO PLACE

I will be updating this in the next few days to add things that I have forgotten. Please feel free to PM if you need any help
th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 08:16 AM #5
97 ZJ Steve
Senior Member
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 755
Send a message via AIM to 97 ZJ Steve
no pictures of the lights?!?!
__________________
97 zj 5" lift I6 KOR rad support Class 3 hitch
8 adj. RE super flex arms..f/r adj. IRO track bars
extended front brake lines 33" tires
4.56 gears D44a rear solid front dif cover
Aussie front locker safari snorkel KOR steering brace
www.njjeep.org
97 ZJ Steve is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 09:31 AM #6
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
and the final pics:








th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 03:33 PM #7
dooboy2112
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mission Viejo, Ca
Posts: 187
That's awesome Now how about for a WJ
__________________
2000 Grand Cherokee Limited
2000 Wranger Sport SOLD
1979 Wagoneer SOLD
dooboy2112 is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 03:38 PM #8
Texas WJ
Web Wheeler
 
Texas WJ's Avatar
2005 WK 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 1,359
Excellent write up.
Texas WJ is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 03:55 PM #9
froggo27
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 1,531
looks good, .wish there was a way to get rid of that hudge wire bundle between the rack and tail gate.
__________________
Kamil

Colorado Club Member # 53

04 WJ Limited
My Trail Pics!!

froggo27 is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 06:20 PM #10
Ds4x4
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Alloway, NJ
Posts: 1,749
Send a message via AIM to Ds4x4 Send a message via Yahoo to Ds4x4
drill a hole where it's not noticeable.. anyways. good write up for not drilling the roof.. i drilled a 1/4hole and ran the wires from the roof, down the A-piller and thru the fender .. much much easier..
__________________
1996 ZJ Orvis Edition,V8 5.2L
Tow & Skid Package, FM 40,44a - 3.73, NP249
265/75/16 Destination M/T's, JKS Discos, UC; Dual Intake;Red Top;
OME Stab.; Rustys 2" BB + shocks, xtreme hi-lift, Kennesaw Rear MultiCarrier
Proud To Be A FF/EMT/Police/Military Club Member #15
Ds4x4 is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 06:29 PM #11
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
do you have a pic of that?? I dont know how people are doing that with the kind of rails the ZJ has
th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-15-2007, 07:47 PM #12
Ds4x4
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Alloway, NJ
Posts: 1,749
Send a message via AIM to Ds4x4 Send a message via Yahoo to Ds4x4



sorry i don't have any of the wires run down the a-piller i just took the molding off and ran the wires.. replaced the molding and everything was fine..
__________________
1996 ZJ Orvis Edition,V8 5.2L
Tow & Skid Package, FM 40,44a - 3.73, NP249
265/75/16 Destination M/T's, JKS Discos, UC; Dual Intake;Red Top;
OME Stab.; Rustys 2" BB + shocks, xtreme hi-lift, Kennesaw Rear MultiCarrier
Proud To Be A FF/EMT/Police/Military Club Member #15
Ds4x4 is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-17-2007, 01:38 AM #13
scubatch2
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Valencia, Cal.
Posts: 280
I ran mine through the inside channel of the factory roof rack.then I removed 1 screw from the rack and ran the wires through the hole and down. if needed i can take some pic's.
__________________
95 zj 5.2,Re 4.5+3/4in spacer,456's,true-trac frt,trac-lock rear,Hanson rockers,33"MTRs,surco,hella's,high-lift,flow-masters&cat,ax&shovel mounted on rack,onboard air,231 swap,Hanson front & rear bumper,ford elec fan
- jeff-

jeep pics
scubatch2 is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-17-2007, 01:58 AM #14
CLNinja
I like Nachos
 
CLNinja's Avatar
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 5,721
thats what i plan on doing...removing a scre from the roof rack...running the wires thru it and applying silicone to hole so water doesnt leak thru
__________________
Matt
**September 2009 Grand Cherokee Of The Month**
Colorado Jeep Club Member #88
WANTED : Addco Rear Anti-Sway Bar for ZJ ... please PM me

NEED A 242 Shifter Bezel? PM ME .. I have several for sale
CLNinja is offline  Reply With Quote
Old05-17-2007, 08:46 AM #15
th3godf4th3r
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to th3godf4th3r
Quote:
Originally Posted by scubatch2
I ran mine through the inside channel of the factory roof rack.then I removed 1 screw from the rack and ran the wires through the hole and down. if needed i can take some pic's.

that would be good!
th3godf4th3r is offline  Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Jeep Forums Replies Last Post
5.9 Roof Rack Dillonzj ZJ & WJ Technical Forum 18 03-11-2009 08:05 PM
Roof rack lights wiring - how to. jeep_zj98 ZJ & WJ Technical Forum 9 09-29-2007 12:57 AM
roof rack irate808 ZJ & WJ Technical Forum 6 06-14-2007 07:38 AM
Durable Roof-rack vs. Trailer-hitch Rack? DenverCruiser ZJ & WJ Technical Forum 12 01-10-2006 04:58 PM
wiring roof rack? snakeyes93 ZJ & WJ Technical Forum 10 01-28-2005 04:38 PM




The time now is 02:52 PM.

Jeep®, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation.

JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.