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The Ultimate Roof Rack Wiring Guide
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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The Ultimate Roof Rack Wiring Guide
Hey everyone,
Well I've seen alot of thread showing how people wired their lights on their roof racks. Some chose the hole through the roof method, some chose down the door method and some chose down the lift gate method. Personally I couldnt stand the thought of drilling a hole through my roof and then accidently screwing up, although it would look very clean which I like. I also thought that having a bulk of wires running down my drivers door wouldn't look good either. So I went with the lift gate method. This is my guide for you guys being such a big help to me. This install is not extremely difficult but if you get frustrated easily, this install may not be for you. Here we go. 1)Tools & Supplies needed:10mm Socket wrench 13mm Socket wrench 13/16 socket wrench Standard Philips Screwdriver Wire stripper & crimper Electrical tape Zip ties Wire loom tubing 16 guage butt splices (or whatever size your using) 150 feet 16 guage wire (or whatever size your using 2) First disconnect the negative wire from your battery 3) Mount your roof rack on your car (if its not already) and then mount your fog or driving lights to your mount that attaches to your rack. 4) Strip about 1/4th of the wire off from your positive and negative wires coming from your lights and your 18 guage wire. Using the butt splices connect +/+, -/- (duh) Next, roll out about 20-25 feet of wire then cut it. Do this however many lights you have, i.e I had 4 lights so i needed 8 butt splices and 100 feet of wire. 5) Now for the disassemly. Start by opening your lift gate and removing the 4 screws around where the door locks.(pic coming) Then remove 1 screw on the left of the ceiling holding the vent in place. Next remove your spare tire (if you have one) unscrew 2 screws near the left side rear seat belt ![]() Once all screws are out remove panel above the rear lift gate shock (pic coming)by simply pulling on it and it will pop out. Next, move to the left rear door and using a 13/16 socket wrench unscrew the bolt that holds the seat belt in place ![]() Then remove panel around the seat belt slider, which in the picture above is right behind it. Use the same method as the last panel, pull and pop. Once you get the panel off there will be a screw, which you need to take out. ![]() Now right in the middle of the plastic foot panel inside the car there is a screw which also needs to be taken out. ![]() You can now take off the entire panel that covers the left rear tire 6) Now that you have that off, next remove vent on the outside of the car. ![]() There will be a small hole already there, which you can use to run the wire through. 7) Finish wiring and zip tying up the roof rack and cover the wires with wire loom tubing 8) Start to one by one push your wires into that hole and by reaching up through this part ![]() you can grab hold of the wires and string them through. Once all wires are strung through, leave a little slack on the outside for some adjusting. 9) Next start to run your wires through this ![]() Then start wiring them like this ![]() ![]() ![]() 10) Now it is time to remove the rear passenger seat and using you 10mm socket wrench remove the bracket that hold the seat in place (pic coming)
Last edited by th3godf4th3r; 05-15-2007 at 06:31 PM.. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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11) Next remove the drivers seat by unscrewing the 4 bolts holding them down the your 13mm socket wrench, there are 2 screws in the front, 2 in back
![]() After you unscrew them, push the entire seat back and you will see a wire connecting to your seat. Push the red slider to the right ![]() ![]() Then pull the harness out and take the seat out of the car. 12) Time to remove all plastic foot paneling. First start by taking out the 3 screws by the drivers side left foot panel ![]() next remove 3 screws in foot panel (pictures starting from front to back) ![]() ![]() ![]() Then using your 13/16 socket wrench remove seat belt bolt on the floor ![]() |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Next move up and still using your 13/16 wrench remove upper seat belt bolt like you did for the rear
![]() Then remove panel like the rear After you remove the panel there will be two screws mid way up the pillar, remove them ![]() You can now take the entire foot panel off and get back to your wiring 13) Continue your wiring down to underneath the carpet. Follow the pictures as a guide ![]() ![]() ![]() You can remove 3 screws from this plastic wire holder ![]() And run your wires in with the others. They will then pop out right here ![]() 14) Unless you have done other previous wiring, you will need to make a bigger opening in your firewall. I did not have to do this but if you have to but a 1" circle cutter that goes on a drill and make a hole. 15) Run your wires through your fire wall ![]() and out into the engine compartment ![]() |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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16) Run them over to your battery where your fuses should be for the lights and properly crimp your wires
17) HAVE FUN PUTTING EVERYTHING BACK INTO PLACE I will be updating this in the next few days to add things that I have forgotten. Please feel free to PM if you need any help |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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no pictures of the lights?!?!
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#6 |
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Registered User
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and the final pics:
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#7 |
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Registered User
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That's awesome
__________________
2000 Grand Cherokee Limited 2000 Wranger Sport SOLD 1979 Wagoneer SOLD http://www.oclakerfans.com/ |
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#8 |
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Web Wheeler
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Excellent write up.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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looks good,
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#10 |
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Registered User
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drill a hole where it's not noticeable.. anyways. good write up for not drilling the roof.. i drilled a 1/4hole and ran the wires from the roof, down the A-piller and thru the fender .. much much easier..
__________________
1996 ZJ Orvis Edition,V8 5.2L Tow & Skid Package, FM 40,44a - 3.73, NP249 265/75/16 Destination M/T's, JKS Discos, UC; Dual Intake;Red Top; OME Stab.; Rustys 2" BB + shocks, xtreme hi-lift, Kennesaw Rear MultiCarrier Proud To Be A FF/EMT/Police/Military Club Member #15 |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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do you have a pic of that?? I dont know how people are doing that with the kind of rails the ZJ has
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#12 |
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Registered User
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sorry i don't have any of the wires run down the a-piller i just took the molding off and ran the wires.. replaced the molding and everything was fine..
__________________
1996 ZJ Orvis Edition,V8 5.2L Tow & Skid Package, FM 40,44a - 3.73, NP249 265/75/16 Destination M/T's, JKS Discos, UC; Dual Intake;Red Top; OME Stab.; Rustys 2" BB + shocks, xtreme hi-lift, Kennesaw Rear MultiCarrier Proud To Be A FF/EMT/Police/Military Club Member #15 |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I ran mine through the inside channel of the factory roof rack.then I removed 1 screw from the rack and ran the wires through the hole and down. if needed i can take some pic's.
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95 zj 5.2,Re 4.5+3/4in spacer,456's,true-trac frt,trac-lock rear,Hanson rockers,33"MTRs,surco,hella's,high-lift,flow-masters&cat,ax&shovel mounted on rack,onboard air,231 swap,Hanson front & rear bumper,ford elec fan - jeff- jeep pics |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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thats what i plan on doing...removing a scre from the roof rack...running the wires thru it and applying silicone to hole so water doesnt leak thru
__________________
[color="#003300"]Matt[/COLOR] [color="white"][CENTER][size="1"] [url="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=434081"][color="white"]Click Here For My Build Thread[/COLOR][/url] [/COLOR][/SIZE][B]**September 2009 Grand Cherokee Of The Month**[/B] [SIZE="2"][url="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=123"][color="white"]Colorado Jeep Club Member #88[/COLOR][/url][/SIZE][/CENTER] |
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#15 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
that would be good! |
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