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Unread 12-14-2012, 08:58 PM   #1
kb9mfd
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 60
Transmission shifting slowly

I have a 1995 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 135k on it and I am a new Jeep owner. It shifts funny and I am checking to see if it may be just a adjustment issue or I will eventually have to replace it. It just had the transfer case replaced last year (ran out of fluid and the owner did not know it). When driving, it seems to pause between the upshift. It will reach around 2200 rpm (normal city driving, not pushing it) and then the RPM will jump up about 500 rpm or so for a second or two then it will shift to the next gear and the rpm drops. During that time you can feel the acceleration pause, like its clutching. It feels like if you are driving a manual and you press the accelerator too fast before you have the clutch engaged and you rpm jumps for a second. I thought it may be the TV cable so I adjusted it to shift at a higher RPM. It does, and the RPM spike is not there anymore, but the pause and loss of acceleration is still there for a second. A couple of years ago the person I got it from had a transmission cooling line bust and it ran out of fluid while on a trip (towing a boat) and he did not realize it until it ran out. I assume it must of damaged the tranny so I expect this is a result of that, but if there is a way to save from replacing the whole thing I am open to suggestions. I have found a lot of useful info on this site so I figured I would join and see what anyone might have to say, Thanks!! - Jeremy

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Unread 12-15-2012, 02:27 AM   #2
96JGCZJ
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Location: Chanute, Kansas
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Mine was doing the exact same thing and I fixed my tv cable. Problem solved. You said that you had already adjusted it and you still have a problem. You might check for a break in the cable. I'm not sure on what else could be the problem. I do know that running out of fluid is not good for them though . Maybe someone else with more knowledge on the subject will chime in and give better advise. Good luck.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:10 AM   #3
kb9mfd
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Thank you for your reply. I did buy it with full knowledge of the issue, the rest of the jeep is in excellent shape, nothing wrong with the body and all the engine needs is the valve cover gasket replaced (its leaking oil) and the exhaust manifold replaced (its loud and leaking exhaust) but both of those are easily taken care of. I was hoping to find a fix that may give me a couple of more years out of the transmission, but I was assuming I may need to replace it. I was thinking of seeing if I can replace the fluid pump, that would be cheaper than replacing the whole thing and I was thinking if the pressure was low that would explain the slow shift and I could see running out of fluid damaging that. Since I have not done that before I am not sure how difficult it would be and if it would be worth it. Thanks! - Jeremy
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Unread 12-15-2012, 07:51 PM   #4
kb9mfd
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Boy I feel stupid. After doing research on this I found out I was checking the fluid level wrong. I did not know it was suppose to be in neutral instead of park. The guy that owned it before me talked to a mechanic and I thought they would of checked it and he always takes it to a oil change place, but I guess the trans fluid was not on the list of things checked. I found another thread on checking the level. It was low so after fixing that and re-adjusting the TV cable again it drives fine now. My next question is there any tips on replacing the pan gasket successfully so it will no longer leak. I have replaced trans pans before but I cannot seem to do it without them leaking a little in the end. I am going to assume the filter has not been changed either so I should do that too. So I guess I solved my own issue, Thanks - Jeremy
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Unread 12-15-2012, 08:12 PM   #5
xcaliber81
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When i check my tranny fluid i shift through all the gears, then shift to neutral and check the fluid that's how i get an accurate reading and must be on level ground as well trannys can be funny with that at least mine is.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:21 PM   #6
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb9mfd View Post
My next question is there any tips on replacing the pan gasket successfully so it will no longer leak. I have replaced trans pans before but I cannot seem to do it without them leaking a little in the end. I am going to assume the filter has not been changed either so I should do that too. So I guess I solved my own issue, Thanks - Jeremy
I've had the best luck in using Mopar trans pan gaskets on my 96 4.0 42RE if you don't want any leaks. Make sure every bit of old gasket, rtv, fluid, etc, is removed from the mating surfaces. I use a fine wire wheel on my bench grinder for cleaned the pan surface off where the gasket goes. Also cleaning the surfaces with cheap spray brake cleaner is a good idea.

Probably the biggest cause of leaks is over-torquing the pan bolts. Spec for the 42RE pan bolts is only 150 in lbs which converts to 12.5 ft lbs. Much more torque than this and you'll cause the gasket to leak where the bolt holes are. You don't need to use any gasket sealer/maker and it shouldn't leak.

You're correct in also replacing the filter and it should take about 4 1/2 qts of ATF4 to refill what you drained. Good luck and don't forget to put the magnet back in the bottom of the pan before installing.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 04:45 AM   #7
KoreaZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uniblurb View Post
...don't forget to put the magnet back in the bottom of the pan before installing.
!!! DO NOT place the magnet in the BOTTOM of the pan !!!

The donut shaped magnet belongs off to the side on the
raised edge positioned "over" the raised dimple in the pan.


Tossing the magnet into the center of lowest area of the pan
seems like the logical place to catch the most metal fragments.

If installed in the bottom, when the pan in installed, the magnet will be CRUSHED by
the metal retainer plate which extends down below the Governor Pressure Solenoid.


This results in magnet fragments EVERYWHERE, which will quickly destroy the solenoids/sensor.
If you're lucky that's all... and they will only need to be replaced once.


How do I know...? Ask the Jeep Certified Service Manager at a local garage here who actually did this.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 10:01 AM   #8
Uniblurb
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Interesting KoreaZJ. I've never seen such a thing where the magnets break apart and I've changed the fluid/filter in each of our 3 high-mileage select-trac trans Jeeps multiple times. I'll keep that in mind.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 11:36 AM   #9
newfieZJ
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I've had no luck sealing the pan in my Slate 5.9 . Even using a new aluminum pan . I have always followed the torque sequence to a tee . Multiple gaskets , no luck .

I recently did an oil and filter on the White 5.9 . I had a new filter , so , I decided to use a mopar gasket I previously used on the Slate 5.9 . Instead of following the torque specs , I brought it hand tight in the proper sequence using the screwdriver socket . I'll be damned , it hasn't leaked a drop . This was also using the original pan from the Slate 5.9 .

Either I have a bad torque wrench , or hand tight works the best Now I`m gonna do the same thing on the Slate 5.9 and hope it does the trick ..... finally .
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