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Unread 09-01-2013, 03:38 AM   #1
orvisss
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1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Davenport, Iowa
Posts: 42
transmission is leaking?

So, ok, I'm moving up towards more intimate relations with my jeep. After it just sit there for a month, without a battery, bad battery clamps (very broken ones, someone smashed them with a hammer, not sure why)
I finally getting funds to give tons of love to my orvis. So Inspection underneath revealed that only thing that is not really leaking is T-case. Diffs are leaking and the transmission pan looks depressing the most


what should I do about it? Transmission fluid is actually ok. Do I need to change gasket or something? what actually is leaking?

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Unread 09-01-2013, 03:57 AM   #2
shaban
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Give it a good clean with a degreaser, and see where it comes from.
Check how tight the pan nuts are, but don't overdo them.
In the meantime, get a new cork seal, and redo it if you're certain that it's the pan gasket.
When the pan is off, check the metal around bolt holes with a straightedge. If it's not flat, hammer it flat gently.
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Unread 09-01-2013, 05:13 AM   #3
Uniblurb
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Agree or using a degreaser to find out where the leaks coming from. You say the fluid's ok but are you just talking about the level and when was the last time it was changed? If it's been a while, or your aren't sure when it's been changed, I'd change it out if you have to install a new pan gasket because it's leaking.

Personally I'd go with a new Felpro pan gasket and filter or use Mopar. You shouldn't need any RTV or gasket maker. The main cause of new pan gasket leaks is over-tightening the pan bolts and the torque spec in only 13 ftlbs. It's best to use an inch/pound torque wrench where 13 ftbs equals 156 inlbs.

As far as the type of ATF you may want to check your trans specs. Some are real quick to install ATF+4 when that's not the type of fluid to use and can cause some slippage. I'm getting ready to change out the ATF4 in my 42RE trans and replace it with MaxLife Dex/Mercon which is only $17/gal at Walmart. Good luck!
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 09-01-2013, 07:44 AM   #4
newfieZJ
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I'd blast it off at the car wash . Nothing to harm . If you have a creeper , use it and do a nice job from both sides .

Could be the pan , or , another common leak comes from the shift rod seal . I'd clean it , and replace both with a new filter/fluid
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Unread 09-01-2013, 02:27 PM   #5
orvisss
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Thanks, guy! I will do that after I put new cv-axles and wheel bearings.
Quote:
You say the fluid's ok but are you just talking about the level and when was the last time it was changed?
I didn't change it, I only changed engine oil. I was going to bring it to local jeep dealer to change trans fluid.
So, before I get to it, I hope transmission isn't suffering It doesn't slip, shifts smoothly. Aside of squeaky belt and grinding noises from falling apart wheel bearing, jeep runs smoothly.
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Unread 09-01-2013, 10:52 PM   #6
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orvisss View Post
Thanks, guy! I will do that after I put new cv-axles and wheel bearings.

I didn't change it, I only changed engine oil. I was going to bring it to local jeep dealer to change trans fluid.
So, before I get to it, I hope transmission isn't suffering It doesn't slip, shifts smoothly. Aside of squeaky belt and grinding noises from falling apart wheel bearing, jeep runs smoothly.
"Do I need to change gasket or something?" Who said dat? LOL, the point I was trying to make is if the pan gasket is leaking it's time to change the fluid & filter too. First person usually means DIY and you need to avoid the dealer to save some $ on fluid changes/simple repairs. Hey, we're here to lead you though it!
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 09-06-2013, 04:57 AM   #7
Speedymcracer01
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You do save alot of money DIY i save thousands every year from doing my own work. My uncle got my 98 zj cheap when we test drove it the transmission slipped it was leaking transmission fluid and oil so we pulled over before we took it back and checked all fluids transmission pan bolts,valve cover bolts. When we got back we talked the guy into letting it go for $1400. After that we went home and changed the transmission pan and valve cover gaskets along with the transmission fluid and oil with the filters too. That fixed all the fluid leaks and the transmission has done great only time it has slipped since is when the transmission fluid cooling line clamp popped loose poring my transmission fluid every where, but who ever they took the zj to for mantience didn't tighten the valve cover bolts or the transmission pan bolts like they should have causing it to leak. It was a easy fix for what has been a great ZJ two months after he got it i bought it for $2500 after over 3 years of owning it i wouldn't trade it for almost anything
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Unread 09-07-2013, 03:01 AM   #8
orvisss
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Quote:
You do save alot of money DIY i save thousands every year from doing my own work.
oh yeah, that's the whole idea, I want to do all this by myself (well, aside of exhaust and alignment)
Quote:
Hey, we're here to lead you though it!
Thanks, this has been awesome forum for me.
So, finally, my ZJ is getting lots of love, after being neglected for 2 months. Is there a way to work on the thing without lift or pit? I'll need to do few things underneath. Bunch of stuff is leaking like diffs or trans. Amazingly, engine does not leak or burns oil
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Unread 09-07-2013, 06:37 AM   #9
Uniblurb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orvisss View Post
oh yeah, that's the whole idea, I want to do all this by myself (well, aside of exhaust and alignment)

Thanks, this has been awesome forum for me.
So, finally, my ZJ is getting lots of love, after being neglected for 2 months. Is there a way to work on the thing without lift or pit? I'll need to do few things underneath. Bunch of stuff is leaking like diffs or trans. Amazingly, engine does not leak or burns oil
Most of us don't have the luxury in having a lift or pit to work on our ZJ's. I've been able to do the exact same repairs laying on the ground with it jacked up or on ramps that I could do on a lift. And big collapsed cardboard boxes are my friend. Lol. Just make sure you have plenty of jack-stands, your wheels on the ground are blocked front/back, and use the best jacking/stand points. Keep in mind if you lift both rear wheels off the ground at the same time you no longer have park or an ebrake to hold it in place and that's why it's so critical to have the front wheels blocked.

So are your differentials leaking from the seals where the drive shafts fit in or from the differential covers? You don't need a gasket for the covers even though some may call for them. Just use a good gasket maker like Permatex Right Stuff and follow the directions. You'll also need a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern and Harbor Freight has real good deals on them. Believe the torque spec on my 35C real axle cover is 30 ftlbs.

If you don't know exactly what you have on your 95 fill out the below form and Chrysler/Jeep will send you a factory build sheet. In the first box type "Request for build sheet" and also ask what recall work has/hasn't been done in the next box.

http://www.jeep.com/wccsapp/universa...ull&category=U

Once you receive this info within a couple days plug all the info into your profile and it will help us to help you. Good luck!
__________________
96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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