Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 98 - JeepForum.com
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post #1456 of 3106 Old 01-21-2013, 10:49 PM
ghatid
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Shoot, I measured the distance between the 2 holes to be 1.95 inches from the picture, but when I drilled it and put it on, it still gets stuck by the linkage:-/. I have increased my transfer case from 3 modes to 4! Sooo close. No 2wd yet.

I have 1 more linkage, then I have to start spending money. Anyone have the measurement?

*edit*
I see, the problem is now the angle of the slotted hole is quite a bit different on the 242 than the 249, so I can't just drill a hole...looks like I'm going to have to find a tab in a junkyard...Unless someone has a better idea?


Last edited by ghatid; 01-22-2013 at 12:12 PM.
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post #1457 of 3106 Old 01-21-2013, 11:29 PM
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post #1458 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 04:07 PM
airwolf9090
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.
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Originally Posted by airwolf9090 View Post
As you quoted there, That is another i been waiting to hear. Can you cut that output shaft to fit the OE internal driveshaft and get away with that?

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post #1459 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 04:24 PM
ghatid
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Originally Posted by airwolf9090 View Post
.
Actually, since us question askers are the only ones responding currently, I will respond to your question. I did exactly what you're talking about; I cut the output shaft of the 242 I bought and put the driveshaft on...but I don't think I cut enough and I had to wedge the driveshaft to get it on. The car drives unsmoothly, so I'm going to cut off more of the output shaft and try again. I have no idea if this is okay to do, but I'm kind of just messing around here...In my mind, the reason it's driving rough is that the drive shaft is pushing the output shaft into the end of the tcase and making everything bind a little (or something like that). It also makes the tcase switch from 2wd to 4part without moving the lever, once in awhile which is HORRIBLE.

Anyways, don't do what I did, and measure it before you cut. I think I removed about .5-.75 inches.

I did it the first time with a dremel (also horrible), so I'm going to wait to do it with a proper tool borrowed from my coworker:-D. I'll cut off another .5" and see how that works.

Again, I am new to this, and I don't know what I'm doing.
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post #1460 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 05:30 PM
airwolf9090
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If i remember right in order for the internal driveshaft to work with the external output the driveshaft has to be cut 1.something inches.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghatid View Post
Actually, since us question askers are the only ones responding currently, I will respond to your question. I did exactly what you're talking about; I cut the output shaft of the 242 I bought and put the driveshaft on...but I don't think I cut enough and I had to wedge the driveshaft to get it on. The car drives unsmoothly, so I'm going to cut off more of the output shaft and try again. I have no idea if this is okay to do, but I'm kind of just messing around here...In my mind, the reason it's driving rough is that the drive shaft is pushing the output shaft into the end of the tcase and making everything bind a little (or something like that). It also makes the tcase switch from 2wd to 4part without moving the lever, once in awhile which is HORRIBLE.

Anyways, don't do what I did, and measure it before you cut. I think I removed about .5-.75 inches.

I did it the first time with a dremel (also horrible), so I'm going to wait to do it with a proper tool borrowed from my coworker:-D. I'll cut off another .5" and see how that works.

Again, I am new to this, and I don't know what I'm doing.

1996 Jeep ZJ Orvis
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post #1461 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 05:51 PM
ghatid
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Originally Posted by airwolf9090 View Post
If i remember right in order for the internal driveshaft to work with the external output the driveshaft has to be cut 1.something inches.
Yeah, sounds about right. I read somewhere that someone said you only need to cut .5-.75 so that's what I was shooting at. *shrug* Better that I cut off too little than too much.
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post #1462 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghatid View Post
Yeah, sounds about right. I read somewhere that someone said you only need to cut .5-.75 so that's what I was shooting at. *shrug* Better that I cut off too little than too much.
just do it right instead of guessing, measure.
it will depend upon how much lift you have and how your axle is placed as to how much you'll cut

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #1463 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 08:18 PM
airwolf9090
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So Ratmon does that mean that what we are talking about is okay to do?
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just do it right instead of guessing, measure.
it will depend upon how much lift you have and how your axle is placed as to how much you'll cut

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post #1464 of 3106 Old 01-22-2013, 10:12 PM
ghatid
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Originally Posted by airwolf9090 View Post
So Ratmon does that mean that what we are talking about is okay to do?
Sounds like it! Good enough for me!

As an engineer, you'd think I have the intelligence to measure before I cut...but *shrug* you measure all day, you don't want to do it when you go home:-D.
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post #1465 of 3106 Old 01-23-2013, 04:40 AM
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Don't cut the output, shorten the drive shaft.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #1466 of 3106 Old 01-23-2013, 01:17 PM
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Just picked up a 242 today at the local JY. Thank goodness for half-days, I picked it up for less than $40.

Anyway, the t-case has a manufacture date of January 1997, and the ZJ was a '97 model year as well.

If I read the OP correct, this should drop right in my '96 with no need to swap input shafts?

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff

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It is what Jeeples has stated.
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post #1467 of 3106 Old 01-23-2013, 01:40 PM
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I have a dumb question about my possible swap.

I have a 93 zj with a 249 and v8.

I found a 231 out of a 91 xj with a manual trans/4.0 and 21 spline input.

Can i swap the input from my case into the 231, or what would i have to do to make this happen?

Is it worth it, or should i look for something else?

Thanks in advance for your help!
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post #1468 of 3106 Old 01-23-2013, 01:45 PM
ghatid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples View Post
Just picked up a 242 today at the local JY. Thank goodness for half-days, I picked it up for less than $40.

Anyway, the t-case has a manufacture date of January 1997, and the ZJ was a '97 model year as well.

If I read the OP correct, this should drop right in my '96 with no need to swap input shafts?
The junkyards in my area want a hell of a lot more than $40 for a transfer case...Anyone know where to get tcases that cheap in CA (bay area)?
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post #1469 of 3106 Old 01-23-2013, 01:48 PM
zarnold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeples
Just picked up a 242 today at the local JY. Thank goodness for half-days, I picked it up for less than $40.

Anyway, the t-case has a manufacture date of January 1997, and the ZJ was a '97 model year as well.

If I read the OP correct, this should drop right in my '96 with no need to swap input shafts?
That's a great deal! Hopefully it has a chain. You are correct, no input shaft swap required.
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post #1470 of 3106 Old 01-23-2013, 01:52 PM
Jeeples
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Yeah, I made sure the shaft spun when turning the driveshaft yoke before I loaded it up lol. Also moved the shift selector to make sure nothing was bound up.

Awesome, looks like I'll freshen up the seals and toss 'er in this weekend.

Even better was I spotted it just laying on the ground next to the donor vehicle when I was there this past weekend. No getting dirty for this guy!

His: '00 WJ 4.7 Limited- Some stuff

Hers: '03 WJ 4.7 Laredo- Some more stuff

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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjeep19 View Post
It is what Jeeples has stated.
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