Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 92 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 11-29-2012, 09:43 PM   #1366
FPKites
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96-98 XJ or ZJ will do the trick.

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Unread 12-02-2012, 08:38 PM   #1367
mandrews000
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So I swapped the 242 from my 4.0 Laredo, into my 5.2 TSi 100% solo. The 4.0 rear drive shaft only made about a half inch of contact with the ESY of the 242, The TSi's original which was on a 249 w/internal slip yolk is about .5inch from full engagement. Should I swap the spline portion of the drive shafts? How much slip yolk Travel is needed on a stock ZJ? Other than this small issue everything else went well, thanks to this awesome write up! I finished ahead of schedule so i decided to do the rear main and oil pan. WTF was I thinking? : You should add a section about what not to do with the spare time!

FYI the 4.0's transmission ends about 2 inches further back than the 5.2. and does anyone know if the 231 had internal or external slip yolk? my little brother is giving me a 231 for Christmas and its going to go on the 4.0
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Unread 12-02-2012, 09:12 PM   #1368
zarnold
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I have the same scenairo, 1/2 inch is not enough. It worked fine until I got out on the highway, at about 65 vibrations from my JY driveshaft exposed problems.
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Unread 12-02-2012, 09:45 PM   #1369
Mierdota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrews000 View Post
So I swapped the 242 from my 4.0 Laredo, into my 5.2 TSi 100% solo. The 4.0 rear drive shaft only made about a half inch of contact with the ESY of the 242, The TSi's original which was on a 249 w/internal slip yolk is about .5inch from full engagement. Should I swap the spline portion of the drive shafts? How much slip yolk Travel is needed on a stock ZJ? Other than this small issue everything else went well, thanks to this awesome write up! I finished ahead of schedule so i decided to do the rear main and oil pan. WTF was I thinking? : You should add a section about what not to do with the spare time!

FYI the 4.0's transmission ends about 2 inches further back than the 5.2. and does anyone know if the 231 had internal or external slip yolk? my little brother is giving me a 231 for Christmas and its going to go on the 4.0
I was going to do my rear main on mine at the same time also, bad idea? Why was it a pain?
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Unread 12-03-2012, 05:28 AM   #1370
mandrews000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mierdota

I was going to do my rear main on mine at the same time also, bad idea? Why was it a pain?
Because if the shape and size of the oil pan. It took me about 3 hours to get it torn all the way down. You have to creat enough space in between the oil pan and the axle so that you can get the pan out without damaging the oil pickup. That's what frustrated me so bad.
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Unread 12-03-2012, 05:33 AM   #1371
mandrews000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zarnold
I have the same scenairo, 1/2 inch is not enough. It worked fine until I got out on the highway, at about 65 vibrations from my JY driveshaft exposed problems.
Thank you.
I think I am going to trade slip yolks from each drive shaft. ESY off of my 4.0 is about 2 inches shorter. So that should take care of it, without havering to get the driveshaft cut down. I just need to get new Spicers first.
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Unread 12-06-2012, 02:30 PM   #1372
airwolf9090
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I read something somewhere and i wanted to run past the people here. But will a ESY Driveshaft from an XJ work on the ZJ's?
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Unread 12-06-2012, 03:40 PM   #1373
mandrews000
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Thanks for the bezel zachjf!
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:21 PM   #1374
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Good reading in this thread. I got a 231 with a Sye coming Christmas.
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Unread 12-08-2012, 12:34 PM   #1375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zarnold View Post
I have the same scenairo, 1/2 inch is not enough.
LOL. This has to go into somes sig.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 11:05 AM   #1376
yellow_submarin
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Hi all.

Performed the swap yesterday with a NP242. Everything went quite smooth, lifting the box on my own was not a problem at all, just gotta find the right position to lift it with ease.
Concerning the top bolt, I figured out the best way was to jack down the tranny so you can access the nut with a crescent wrench from the OPPOSITE side. Break the nut loose with a 1/2 wrench, then go with a 1/4 wrench to remove it faster. No surprise besides, thanks to all the great tutorials.
I'm only waiting for the bezel to be delivered to complete the swap. BTW, I am experiencing trouble setting up the linkage properly, I don't have enough throw to go into 4 low, thoughth lever is full up front when into 2wd. I have noticed no particular play in the torque tube. Will look closer when swapping the bezel.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 12:29 PM   #1377
Sclay115
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I attempted to read most of this thread, but to be honest I feel like I might have missed some information. I had a few questions that I hope can just get a solid answer so I can try and source a new case.

My current 249 has a Internal Yoke, but most of the 242 cases that I see have an External Yoke, and are from a XJ. Sourcing one from a ZJ is not proving easy.

My question(s) being, if I round up an ESY case(case only, from an XJ), I will either need to shorten my rear driveshaft, or shorten the yoke itself(not recommended). Correct?
Can I swap out the yoke from my 249 and move it to the 242 to utilize the ISY? Or is this more trouble than it is worth, and would I be better off just shortening the driveshaft and sticking with the ESY?

I want to see what my options are for this. From what I gather, I would need to remove about 1.5" of my rear driveshaft to work with an ESY unit. Being that I like having all of my parts ready ahead of time, I would purchase a spare driveshaft and get it shortened and balanced before I begun the swap.

It seems to be relatively difficult to find an ISY 242, or perhaps, they are all being bought by us ZJ owners!

Steve
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Unread 12-09-2012, 03:10 PM   #1378
zarnold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sclay115 View Post
I attempted to read most of this thread, but to be honest I feel like I might have missed some information. I had a few questions that I hope can just get a solid answer so I can try and source a new case.

My current 249 has a Internal Yoke, but most of the 242 cases that I see have an External Yoke, and are from a XJ. Sourcing one from a ZJ is not proving easy.

My question(s) being, if I round up an ESY case(case only, from an XJ), I will either need to shorten my rear driveshaft, or shorten the yoke itself(not recommended). Correct?
Can I swap out the yoke from my 249 and move it to the 242 to utilize the ISY? Or is this more trouble than it is worth, and would I be better off just shortening the driveshaft and sticking with the ESY?



I want to see what my options are for this. From what I gather, I would need to remove about 1.5" of my rear driveshaft to work with an ESY unit. Being that I like having all of my parts ready ahead of time, I would purchase a spare driveshaft and get it shortened and balanced before I begun the swap.

It seems to be relatively difficult to find an ISY 242, or perhaps, they are all being bought by us ZJ owners!

Steve
From this page

Quote:
Drive Shafts

While there are several different length drive shafts used though the years, the physical dimensions of the 231, 242, and 249 are very similar. The overall length of each case is within + or - 1/4" of each other, per slip yoke configuration. There are two different slip yoke styles used for the rear drive shaft: Internal and external slip yokes. They are easy to decipher from one another as, well, one has an internal shaft with a tail cone and the other has an external shaft with a dust boot. The external slip yoke is generally found in 96 or newer Jeeps while the internal slip yoke is found in older Jeeps. There is really no huge advantage to either style, however I like how the drive shaft splines are always submerged in ATF in the internal slip yoke case.

The biggest difference between the two is that the external slip yoke case is about 1.5" longer than an ISY case, meaning if you replace your ISY 249 with an ESY 242 for example, you will have to cut and balance your rear drive shaft or have the drive shaft from the donor Jeep on hand.
So 96, and newer 242's have an external slip yoke. Your going to have to get your ds shortened, you may want to get the tc installed to find exactly how much.
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Unread 12-09-2012, 04:53 PM   #1379
mandrews000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sclay115
I attempted to read most of this thread, but to be honest I feel like I might have missed some information. I had a few questions that I hope can just get a solid answer so I can try and source a new case.

My current 249 has a Internal Yoke, but most of the 242 cases that I see have an External Yoke, and are from a XJ. Sourcing one from a ZJ is not proving easy.

My question(s) being, if I round up an ESY case(case only, from an XJ), I will either need to shorten my rear driveshaft, or shorten the yoke itself(not recommended). Correct?
Can I swap out the yoke from my 249 and move it to the 242 to utilize the ISY? Or is this more trouble than it is worth, and would I be better off just shortening the driveshaft and sticking with the ESY?

I want to see what my options are for this. From what I gather, I would need to remove about 1.5" of my rear driveshaft to work with an ESY unit. Being that I like having all of my parts ready ahead of time, I would purchase a spare driveshaft and get it shortened and balanced before I begun the swap.

It seems to be relatively difficult to find an ISY 242, or perhaps, they are all being bought by us ZJ owners!

Steve
I also have this same problem, both slip yokes are actually the same length just different shape. So shortening seems to be the only option for me. Now which way to shorten... It seems like I need to take off about an inch.
image-1324932523.jpg   image-2939107089.jpg   image-1177745131.jpg  
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Unread 12-09-2012, 09:06 PM   #1380
zarnold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow_submarin
Hi all.

Performed the swap yesterday with a NP242. Everything went quite smooth, lifting the box on my own was not a problem at all, just gotta find the right position to lift it with ease.
Concerning the top bolt, I figured out the best way was to jack down the tranny so you can access the nut with a crescent wrench from the OPPOSITE side. Break the nut loose with a 1/2 wrench, then go with a 1/4 wrench to remove it faster. No surprise besides, thanks to all the great tutorials.
I'm only waiting for the bezel to be delivered to complete the swap. BTW, I am experiencing trouble setting up the linkage properly, I don't have enough throw to go into 4 low, thoughth lever is full up front when into 2wd. I have noticed no particular play in the torque tube. Will look closer when swapping the bezel.
Not going into 4 low is a pretty common problem. Some people have problems getting the 249 linkage to work on the 242,as did I, but I got it to work. My problem was the adjusting block was rusted to the shift rod. Once I got it to move adjusting it was no problem. To adjust: shift to 4 low. Loosen the lock bolt on the shift rod. Make sure the TC is in 4 low. Retighten. Done.
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