Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 57 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242

FS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great valueRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits Rough Country Jeep Suspension Deals at Rockridge 4WD!

Reply
Unread 10-24-2011, 09:17 PM   #841
Mediokrates
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario
Posts: 222
Hey Jr,

My tc won't shift gears via the cab handle. When I investigated I found that the torque shaft had come out of the frame bracket, and is pressed up against the bottom of the bracket. I gave a cursory attempt at prying the shaft back in, but couldn't get enough play to get that to work.

Looking closer, I found that, yes, the bushing on the bracket had fallen apart, and was likely the reason why the torque shaft had come out.

My next thought was to remove the torque shaft frame bracket, since I have the one from the 242, which has an intact bushing, and put it back in that way. However, despite the fact that the bushing screws came out easily enough, the frame bracket nuts wouldn't come loose.

So I decided to go from the other side, and see if I could remove the transmission bracket, since it only has the 2 bolts. The rear came out easily, and the front nut came off without too much issue, but the front bolt also won't come out.

Funny, I now occurs to me that my original plan was probably the right one, just not executed correctly to its logical conclusion. As the handle is currently located in 2wd, the torque shaft is jammed up against the bottom of the frame bracket. Yet, from earlier experimenting, I know that if I shift the handle into another gear like 4ft, N, or 4lo, the torque shaft will swing free from its position to the front of the frame bracket. Perhaps, if I do this, and detach the shift lever rod from the tc, I'll have enough play in the linkage to pry the torque shaft back into position in the frame bracket (after having first slipped the bushing back onto it).

Think that would work? Or how would you correct this?

Mediokrates is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 07:13 AM   #842
mrgreen98ski
Registered User
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dell rapid, sd
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediokrates
@ mrgreen,

Just wondering why you found it necessary to take the shift sensor from your 249 and put that in your 242. I don't believe Jr mentions anything about doing this procedure.

Like sskilla, my 249 harness plugged into the 242 shift sensor. Now, mind you, I still have to fix my shift linkage so I can change gears via the handle in the cab, but after having switched the vic plugs, my display does correctly display 2wd. I'll see what happens once I get the linkage fixed and put the tc into 4wd.

As far as the different locations for the shift sensor on the 249 (front) and 242 (back), I don't think this should be an issue. Carl's write up on the swap process mentions no issues caused by 242's with that config, even though his pics clearly show this is the config on the 242 he used.

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

I would think that all you would need is enough play on your wiring to reach the farther sensor plug.

A little off topic, I'm wondering why Jr advised us to switch the speedsensor. Even though I followed this advice, I noticed that both were identical.
The 242 I picked up was out of a 90 Cherokee and the **** sensor was a 2 wire not a 4 wire like it was on my 249 that's why I used a dif sensor
mrgreen98ski is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 08:21 AM   #843
Mediokrates
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario
Posts: 222
@ mrgreen,

OK, I got ya.

According to Carl's write up, he implies that a pre-93 shift indicator from a 242 will not work with the ZJ. He doesn't mention anything about being able to swap in the 249 indicator, but does indicate that the part would have to be purchased. He says he'd post the part number, but I can't find it.
Mediokrates is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 02:14 PM   #844
Mediokrates
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario
Posts: 222
OK finally got the torque shaft back in and the shifter linkage together.

I actually disassembled the entire linkage, and installed the torque shaft from the 242... since the only bushing I had for the torque shaft frame bracket was from the 242, and had a raised lip. The torque shaft from the 249 had a flange on it, which would not allow me to sink it deep enough into the bushing and frame bracket in order to sink the other end into the transmission bracket. The 242 torque shaft did not have this flange.

I also replaced the selector rod with trunnion, as the trunnion on the 249 was frozen, and needed to be moved about an inch. My spare from the 242 was free moving.

So that all went together.

Have a few issues and questions still...

After my initial install, I was only intermittently getting 4lo. I made some adjustments, and things are worse. Not only can I not get 4lo, but I can't get neutral. Not so bad, since I don't plan on using either any time soon.

However, I'm also not sure that I'm fully engaging 2wd or 4ft.
In 2wd, it feels rougher than it did before, and maybe a little noisier
In 4ft, it's turning roughly.

Any ideas?
Mediokrates is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 02:55 PM   #845
mrgreen98ski
Registered User
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dell rapid, sd
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediokrates
@ mrgreen,

OK, I got ya.

According to Carl's write up, he implies that a pre-93 shift indicator from a 242 will not work with the ZJ. He doesn't mention anything about being able to swap in the 249 indicator, but does indicate that the part would have to be purchased. He says he'd post the part number, but I can't find it.
Lol I just noticed my phone must have made a swear word cause I got some stars on my last post. Sorry didn't mean that. Where's calls write up located maybe I can pm him for a part number.
mrgreen98ski is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 03:05 PM   #846
Patriotsfan0613
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Posts: 45
I hit 200k on my ZJ today!!!
Patriotsfan0613 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 03:25 PM   #847
mrgreen98ski
Registered User
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dell rapid, sd
Posts: 23
@ Mediokrates

I found the link u posted and emailed to see if I can get that part number. I'll post it up if I am able to get it.
mrgreen98ski is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-25-2011, 04:40 PM   #848
Mediokrates
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario
Posts: 222
Hope it helps mrgreen!

OK, so I crawled back under the ZJ and think I found the problem. When I referred back to the FSM, the selector rod for an auto trans was positioned so that the trunnion was attached to the shift lever assembly. Mine was backwards with the trunnion attached to the torque shaft.

I thought that I saw signs of someone fiddling with the tc and linkage when I did the swap, otherwise howelse to explain already stripped bolts? Since I just broke 300 000km, I'm guessing the vc was swapped out already around 150 thousand, by the previous owner (a mechanic).

I pulled the selector rod off, and reversed it. It sits much better... with the trunnion against the torque shaft, it looked like it didn't quite fit. Anyway, I first pulled on the tc shift lever, and got a little more play going into 2wd, so the issues I just reported were probably that the tc was not fully engaged in each gear. Once I had done that and reattached the selector rod properly, and tightened the trunnion, I went for a ride.

In 2wd, it was no longer noisier or rougher. In both 2wd & 4wd, no more skipping on turns. So I think I've got that fixed!

Only problem is... still no Neutral or 4lo. I noticed that the shifter handle is not pulling all the way back, but sticking on something. Not really a big deal, other than neutral being needed for getting a tow. I'll have to readjust and check when I've got someone to sit in the cab and shift gears for me.

EDIT: Oops, I spoke too soon. Just went for a ride, and did a quick shift into 4ft and back to 2wd. 2wd is not fully engaging now. Rough and skipping on corners. I guess I didn't tighten the trunnion enough.
Mediokrates is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-26-2011, 01:47 PM   #849
wildman90
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st louis
Posts: 201
ok,

so for me to do the swap on my 98 grand with 5.2, i need a 231 (my preference) with 23 spline, .840 input shaft, internal yoke (whats on mine now) and a speed sensor in the tail housing (again whats on mine now). i have a double cardan joint on the front shaft. will the 231 like be set up to use this or will i have to swap yokes?

the junkyard has them already pulled, so i dont get to shop for the right vehicle.

what am i looking for on the t-case itself?
__________________
nothing i cant do--i'l pay myself $50/hr labor!!

the only thing you cannot do, is that which you have already accepted defeat!

many people search for god in the eleventh hour, only to die at 10:30
wildman90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-26-2011, 04:42 PM   #850
sskilla
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: sacramento, CA
Posts: 791
you need a post 94.5 t-case with all that you mentioned above.

dont forget to see if you have an internal or external slip yoke for the rear output. you'll want to get the same as you have now or you will need the drive shaft from the donor also
__________________
'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

sskilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-26-2011, 05:51 PM   #851
Mediokrates
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario
Posts: 222
Shifter Linkage

Hey all,

Crawled under the jeep again and found that, indeed, the 2wd was not fully engaged.

This time I followed the FSM instructions on adjusting the linkage, by starting with neutral. By doing this, I was still unable to get 4lo, or to get 2wd to fully engage. There was still room in the shifter handle slide assembly, but the handle wouldn't move further into 4lo.

Investigating further, I believe the problem is the shift lever rod, which connects the torque shaft to the transfer case shift lever. It's too long. When I reset by starting in 2wd, I realized that the torque shaft arm to which the rod is attached was almost parallel with the ground (pushed towards the engine). This means that the torque shaft is at or near the end of its travel. I'm thinking that the torque shaft arm attached to the selector rod is doing the same thing when trying to get into 4lo (pushed toward the engine). I haven't confirmed this yet bc it was raining, but it would explain why the handle won't move further into 4lo. (The shift lever on the tc was not binding on anything).

I checked the shift lever rod that I got with the 242, and it looks like it's about 2 inches shorter. I'm going to try installing this. It should pull the torque shaft arm it attaches to a more upright position when in 2wd (rather than to its' furthermost forward position). I'll probably have to slide the trunnion down further on the selector rod, to fit, but that too should leave it's torque shaft arm in a more vertical position when shifting into 4lo.

Hope it works.
Mediokrates is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-26-2011, 06:19 PM   #852
wildman90
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: st louis
Posts: 201
Quote:
Originally Posted by sskilla View Post
you need a post 94.5 t-case with all that you mentioned above.

dont forget to see if you have an internal or external slip yoke for the rear output. you'll want to get the same as you have now or you will need the drive shaft from the donor also
its an internal slip yoke, from where do i measure the input shaft length?
__________________
nothing i cant do--i'l pay myself $50/hr labor!!

the only thing you cannot do, is that which you have already accepted defeat!

many people search for god in the eleventh hour, only to die at 10:30
wildman90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-26-2011, 11:22 PM   #853
sskilla
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: sacramento, CA
Posts: 791
@mediokrates

lol good luck man, welcome to my world. still havnt got mine figured out either

@wildman90

i think from the bearing retainer?
__________________
'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

sskilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2011, 02:42 PM   #854
Mediokrates
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Burlington, Ontario
Posts: 222
Oh man!

It was such a sweet plan, and I think it would have worked; however, when I put the shorter shift lever rod in, the selector rod and trunnion were about 1/4"-1/2" too short. I checked the original selector rod and it's the exact same size (and seized too, but I could've tried again).

So, I'm still having issues with 2wd engaging properly after shifting thru the gears. I can get away with maybe 2 trips into 4ft, but eventually, 2wd will fail to engage properly, and I get a noisy feeling in the tc, and hard to turn. I then have to crawl back under, detach the selector rod and trunnion, and pull the tc all the way into 2wd (usually just a smidgeon of movement on the shift lever). I don't know, maybe the trunnion on the selector rod is going bad. I tightened it pretty good.

Still having issues getting into neutral and 4lo. Put the tc into 4ft, and crawled under the jeep. Couldn't see anything binding or locking. The shift lever on the tc is pointing down and slightly forward. My idea that the torque shaft had reached the end of its' travel turned out to be wrong. There's obviously travel left. The tc will go into neutral, since I had it briefly when I first fixed the linkage, and yesterday, when I manually put it in. The shift handle just won't go further. But if I loosen the trunnion or detach the selector rod, I get full motion in the handle.

Any ideas.
Mediokrates is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-27-2011, 04:00 PM   #855
JrMechanic
Registered User
1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lima, Ohio
Posts: 3,368
Did you use the long shift tab from the 249 or the short shift tab from the 242?
__________________
Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...pdated-685644/
JrMechanic is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.