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Unread 10-19-2011, 12:46 PM   #826
tobyjp1
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NP249 NP231 Swap

Hello, I have a 1993 ZJ 4.0l with a NP231 TC and I just bought an early 94 ZJ 5.2l with a NP249 and the VC is going bad. I would like to remove the 249 and install the 231 TC and was wondering if this would be a direct swap or would I have to tear into the cases and change the input shafts? I can take the shifter and bezel from my 93 and I see that I can swap the wire harness connector at the back of the control center but do I have to swap speed sensors also? Any tips or shortcuts would be Greatly appreciated as I am disabled and have to do the work right the 1st time because I may not be able to do it twice. Please help and Thank you for your time

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Unread 10-19-2011, 05:18 PM   #827
sskilla
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look on the tag to see if it was in the first half of 94 or the 2nd half of 94. if your 231 was made in the first half of 94 you should be good as far as gear cut is concerned.

as far as input shafts, i dont know of any way to tell until you pull the t-case's off and look at them.

i believe there will be some modding you have to do to the speed sensor harness for the 231, i think it mentions it in the write up.

if you decide to give it a go, study the write up really well and make sure you have the tools and seals on hand.

good luck
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

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Unread 10-20-2011, 04:56 PM   #828
mrgreen98ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgreen98ski View Post


the 249 is on the left and the 242 on the right

It's the ball end I m concerned with

ok so i got it all done test drove it bout 60 miles today, it will shift into all modes on the t case but still needs a lil adjustment on the linkage.

i get a "service 4wd switch" in the message center. i did unplug the red plugs and plugged in the the black ones and still get he error. could this be due to the length of the ball end in the pic above? the threaded portions are the same length but as you can see the ball end is much longer on the one from the 249 compared to the 242s
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Unread 10-20-2011, 07:42 PM   #829
Mediokrates
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Hey all,

OK, so I worked all weekend and didn't have the chance to check my linkage.
Yesterday, I swapped out the bezel plate and changed over the vic. Took about 10 minutes.

I had today off, so I tried out the shifter. I can move the handle thru the gears, but it's not engaging. It just stays in 2wd.

I crawled under the jeep, and found the problem. The torque shaft has somehow slipped out of the torque shaft frame bracket. I can't be certain, but I'm pretty sure it was in the bracket when I did the swap. I think it may have popped loose when I initially tried to shift thru gears right after the swap. (The torque shaft is shorter on the 249 than the 242.)

So when I move the shifter handle, the linkage does not rotate around the torque shaft to push or pull on the tc shift lever.

It's a very simple issue, but very frustrating as well. I tried to undo the 4 screws attaching the bracket to the frame, but they are on really tight. I ended up breaking both my 1/2" and 13mm sockets. They cracked right open.

I don't think I can pry the torque shaft end back into the bracket. On closer inspection, I noticed that the bracket holder (for lack of a name that I can find) had broken. I was able to undo the 2 3/8" screws holding it on, and remove it. I also considered prying the other end of the torque shaft out of the torque shaft transfer case bracket, but wasn't sure how easy it would be to pop back in. I also considered removing the torque shaft transfer case bracket, but wasn't sure exactly how to go about it.



Here's the bracket and holder from the 242, and the broken holder from the 249. You can just see the 242 torque shaft, which appears to be about 1" longer than the 249 currently on the jeep. As well, you can see that the lip for the 249 bracket holder has broken off, leaving just the ends attached by the rubber washer.

I think I'm going to have to get a propane torch and see if I can heat up the bolts and undo them. Unless anyone can think of a quicker and easier way to fix it.

I only have cursory tools currently at hand, and no jack stands. All the good tools are up at the farm, which I don't expect to be going back to until Christmas.

EDIT: OK, after going over the shift linkage diagrams in the FSM, I think I'm going to try removing the torque shaft transfer case bracket on the otherside. If all goes well, I should then be able to attach the replacement torque shaft frame bracket holder, slide the torque shaft back inside it, and reattach the TSTCB. Sounds so easy!
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Unread 10-21-2011, 02:05 PM   #830
Mediokrates
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OK,

Here's a question. I tried removing the torque shaft transfer case bracket (the one attached to the trans). It has 2 bolts, which I believe are 15mm. I was able to remove both nuts, and the rear (closest to tc) bolt. But the front bolt is in there real good. Does anyone know whether this bolt should just push out, or does it have to be turned out?

I tried heating the nuts on the torque shaft frame bracket to no avail. They just want to strip, so I think this is the easier method.

Otherwise, I'm gonna have to break out the grinder and start cutting the torque shaft frame bracket free, which I'd rather not do, as I'd have to start pulling up carpet to refit the replacement bolts (plus it'll be a tight squeeze to get the upper bolts).
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Unread 10-21-2011, 03:46 PM   #831
sskilla
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as far as the bracket on the body side is concerned the bolts are inside under the carpet on the driver side.

this also happened to me, what i had to do was put a jack stand under the... passenger side of the cross member i believe and slowly lower the cross member until i could line it back up and jack it back into place.

i just removed the tranny side bracket as well when i put my novak cable shifter in and the bolts should just push out.

also on the body side bracket there is that little oval plate with the actual hole for the torque shaft that comes off with two bolts. i had to loosen those up to get the angle i needed to get that shaft back in.
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-21-2011, 04:32 PM   #832
Mediokrates
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Thanks sskilla,

I'm gonna whack the $#@% outta that front bolt on the TSTC bracket this weekend then. Good to know it doesn't screw out. Whew!

Yeah, that oval plate with the flanged opening, where the torque shaft enters, on the TS frame bracket actually broke apart on my jeep. All there was left was the rubber seat and enough metal to form the screw holes. I guess that's how the torque shaft came loose.

Good thing I got the entire bracket when I picked up the tc. If I can get that bolt in the TSTC bracket out, then I'll replace the plate and put everything back together. Hopefully, after that I'll have 4wd too.
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Unread 10-21-2011, 08:44 PM   #833
sskilla
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if it was good when you tested prior to install it should be good. when i first got it back in after i swapped the vc plug i got under it and manually shifted it to see if the vc would at least tell me its working. according to the vc it did.

still workin on moddin the novak cable shifter to work. major head way today, but what it really is boiling down to is i need to buy/build a new shifter for the TC in order to engage 4Lo. the stock shifter's throw is about 1/2" short of being long enough.

really played with all the adjustments and i dont think extending the shifter tab is going to position the link correctly so its time for some R&D on fabin up a new shifter.

ill try to document or at least take lots of pics for the few peeps i know are sittin on this cable shifter.

wish me luck!
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-22-2011, 10:53 AM   #834
mrgreen98ski
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Sorry I left out that the switch is In a different spot on my 242 compared to the old 249. On the 249 its up front by the shifter on the 242 its on the back by the speed sensor. I know this I my issue to why the shift sensor dnt work. Has ant one gotten this to work?
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Unread 10-22-2011, 12:58 PM   #835
sskilla
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my 249 harness plugged right onto my 242 sensor. never had any problems with it.
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-23-2011, 02:39 AM   #836
mrgreen98ski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sskilla
my 249 harness plugged right onto my 242 sensor. never had any problems with it.
Did the sensor move spots? See my sensor move positions from one to the other like mine? I m thinkn I should have used the front half of my 249 case
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Unread 10-24-2011, 06:07 AM   #837
Mediokrates
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@ mrgreen,

Just wondering why you found it necessary to take the shift sensor from your 249 and put that in your 242. I don't believe Jr mentions anything about doing this procedure.

Like sskilla, my 249 harness plugged into the 242 shift sensor. Now, mind you, I still have to fix my shift linkage so I can change gears via the handle in the cab, but after having switched the vic plugs, my display does correctly display 2wd. I'll see what happens once I get the linkage fixed and put the tc into 4wd.

As far as the different locations for the shift sensor on the 249 (front) and 242 (back), I don't think this should be an issue. Carl's write up on the swap process mentions no issues caused by 242's with that config, even though his pics clearly show this is the config on the 242 he used.

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

I would think that all you would need is enough play on your wiring to reach the farther sensor plug.

A little off topic, I'm wondering why Jr advised us to switch the speedsensor. Even though I followed this advice, I noticed that both were identical.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 06:08 PM   #838
Mediokrates
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Arrrgh!

Nothing will get these bolts loose! I've tried: liquid wrench, a propane torch, and pb breaker. I tried the pb breaker on the TS frame bracket nuts, and broke another 13mm socket. Now I'm out of 13mm!

No luck on the TS transfer case bracket front bolt either. Hitting it with a hammer is only flattening the end.

Does anyone know the easiest way to pull the carpet back around the driver's side center console, so that I can get access to the TS frame bracket screws from the inside? I'm even considering cutting out part of the carpet to get access, if someone can give me coordinates for the screws.

Otherwise, I think I'm gonna give up and call my mechanic and see what he'll charge to cut that 1 bolt out.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 07:59 PM   #839
sskilla
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man that really sucks about those bolts man.

as far as the carpet is concerned, i just loosened the screws that hold the door jam moulding down and pulled it out of there. ive sort of got it rolled back toward the driver seat enough to get access to the bolts.
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-24-2011, 08:22 PM   #840
JrMechanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediokrates View Post
Arrrgh!

Nothing will get these bolts loose! I've tried: liquid wrench, a propane torch, and pb breaker. I tried the pb breaker on the TS frame bracket nuts, and broke another 13mm socket. Now I'm out of 13mm!

No luck on the TS transfer case bracket front bolt either. Hitting it with a hammer is only flattening the end.

Does anyone know the easiest way to pull the carpet back around the driver's side center console, so that I can get access to the TS frame bracket screws from the inside? I'm even considering cutting out part of the carpet to get access, if someone can give me coordinates for the screws.

Otherwise, I think I'm gonna give up and call my mechanic and see what he'll charge to cut that 1 bolt out.
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? The bracket that mounts to the transmission shouldn't have to come off for any reason. On the body side, the bushing that the torque shaft slides into is known for going bad, it's only two machine screws holding it on that should be fairly easy to remove... I'm racking my brain trying to figure out what it is that you're doing.
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Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:
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