Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 53 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-10-2011, 04:25 PM   #781
squazz
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Try dropping the jack thats under the trans a little and remove what you git supporting the tc maby something on the body is holding it up

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Unread 10-10-2011, 05:16 PM   #782
Mediokrates
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ok i've got a couple screw drivers wedged in there.
I ha.ve a 5mm gap at the bottom and can see the front retainer ring.

The gap goes all the way around, but stops just short of the left hand passenger top pin (the only one still in there, the end broken off to remove the nut!) and almost to the driver's side top nut. no more give.

Do I have something jacked up too high or low.

there's a jack behind the oil pan, supporting the trans, should I remove this? and a jack under the bottom most section of the t/c

i just spray a load of liquid wrench all around the top section. couldn't find anything that I missed.

Doesn't look like the trans and t/c were RTV'd together.
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Unread 10-10-2011, 05:35 PM   #783
JrMechanic
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By jacking the rear of the transfer case, you're binding the input shaft on the output shaft of the transmission and any studs that you have left in. The very best way to do it is position yourself under it, reach up, and wiggle while slightly pulling back on the case. If you have all 6 nuts off, it will come out. Be careful not to let the case slam down onto your chest or fall onto your hands.
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Unread 10-10-2011, 05:59 PM   #784
Mediokrates
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Thanks Jr.

I tried removing the jack under the t/c and got some wiggle but not a lot. That's when I had only a 2mm gap and just at the bottom.

I'll remove it again and see what happens.

We were thinking of wrapping a come-along around the front yoke on the tc and the rear axel and tightening it to see if it would force it off.

If I can't get it off, I'm gonna have to tow it or see if someone will come out and take it off. crap

my father in law, who works as a mill wright at Ford thinks it's b/c of the mileage on the t/c, something like 300 000km.

Like I said, there's just the one stud left, as I backed out the rest, and it's only 4/5 as I broke the end off taking off the stripped nut.

the gap now runs at varying widths 4/5th of the way around the t/c just the top section where the top nuts and studs were. so maybe Jr is on to something

Unfortunately, I'm at the farmhouse in the middle of nowhere special, and b/c I took some swings at the 249 with a sledge hammer and broke off a chunk, I can't just reassemble to get it working since now there's a hole in the 249
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Unread 10-10-2011, 06:23 PM   #785
Mediokrates
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@ squazz

the jack behind the oil pan is just supporting the trans, barely, if I lower it any further I might as well remove it.

@ Jr and anyone else,

Can I remove all the jacks. If I remove the jack supporting the t/c I have to support the trans right?

Or should I jack up the trans, rather than just supporting it, when I remove the tc jack
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Unread 10-10-2011, 07:03 PM   #786
sskilla
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i didnt have anything supporting the TC. i had two jack stands under the cross member and raised and lowered the drive train via the cross member as well.

got a mirror you can angle up in there to see if theres something else goin on?
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

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Unread 10-10-2011, 07:13 PM   #787
Mediokrates
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I'll try that sskilla,

but I felt around and couldn't find anything. top driver's side nut and stud are both removed. the only stud left is the pita upper passenger side. the nut is off as the end of the stud broke off. can't get at the stud to twist it out. the fuel line bracket is now loose which was on that stud. like i said undid speedo, and even removed it. undid shift sensor and vent hose. drive shafts are off, shift lever disconnected from lever rod.

peeked my head up there when I was spraying with liquid wrench and didn't see anything, but you do have a point. better to be sure.

man!

Maybe I'll try that sskilla,

I'll put the oe jack under the bushing (since I already removed the cross member, and the saddle on the oe jack is a perfect fit for the bushing), and remove the jack under the tc altogether. I'll check with a mirror just to confirm I didn't miss anything up top, then I'll wrap a come-along (we've got one rated at 1500lbs lifting) around the tc and the rear axel and try to pull it off, with a raised creeper underneath it.

It was my father in law's suggestion to try the come-along. I wanted to tie the tc to the hitch on his pick up
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Unread 10-11-2011, 12:55 AM   #788
squazz
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Well medio? Did you get it?
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Unread 10-11-2011, 09:52 AM   #789
Mediokrates
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waited until this morning

hooked up the 1500lb rated come-along to the t/c and a 2x4 popped against the back wheels. broke the 2x4
tried a 2" diameter pipe, and bent that, but we managed to separate them about 3/4"

put two 2" diameter pipes propped against the back wheels and finally popped the tc off. if was that 1 stud (passenger side top) which was all corroded and stuff which didn't want to let go.

Now putting it back together.

Thanks to all the well wishers.

Here's to no more problems.

Having a few probs with the old seals, but hopefully they won't be too difficult.
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Unread 10-11-2011, 02:23 PM   #790
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Weird,

got the 242 together, checked that everything was spinning properly when I turned the input, depending on gear.

Just torqued on the front yoke, now it doesn't spin in 4 part time when I spin the input, but if I spin the front yoke, I can see the rear output spinning.

going forward anyway
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Unread 10-11-2011, 10:11 PM   #791
sskilla
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good luck buddy, you got this!

i however have finally given up trying to make the 249 / 231 hybrid linkage work. i still cant engage 4 Lo no matter how i adjust it.

would anyone disagree that novaks cable shifter is the best solution?

the only jeep yard in my area that says they "might" have the 242 linkage says they want $100.00 for it... if im payin that kinda money i might as well get an upgrade for a little more right?
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-12-2011, 12:22 AM   #792
Mediokrates
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@ sskilla,

I don't know what the Novaks goes for, but if it's comparable, go for it.

OK,

So my air-compressor went caput half way thru the job. Good thing I had all the insides cleaned out when it happened.

Anyway, got the 242 back together, and popped it back into the trans easily enough.

By the time I got everything back together, it was already close to 11pm at night, and I had to get back for work tomorrow. So I didn't check which gears I'm getting, I just hooked up 2wd.
Obviously I didn't adjust the linkage, and didn't have time to switch the vic.

I got the jeep back together, and it drove. Good enough. Then an hour to the closest city where I stopped for gas.

Did a nice tight turn, with no front end hopping or binding (same thing when I pulled into my parking spot)... so I guess it was the VC, and that problem is solved.

Drove another 1.5 hours to get home. Cruise control felt smoother, as did braking(?). I think I used 1/16 of a tank less on the return trip.

I'll probably have to wait until the next nice weekend to look at which gears I get and adjust the linkage, and switch over the vic.

For now, I'm bruised, bloody, and sore all over.

Thanks to all those who helped, supported, and cheered me on.
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Unread 10-12-2011, 07:42 AM   #793
sskilla
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nicely done medio!

i was rollin 2wd for a couple days after i got it back in too.

FYI, the VIC plug switch over only took me 5 minutes and it tells you what modes you are in. could be an after work job easily.

crossin fingers for ya buddy

on a side note, i just ordered the novak cable shifter. hopefully this ends this project on a happy note
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-12-2011, 09:40 AM   #794
JrMechanic
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sskilla, check the bushing on the body side of the pivot point for your shifter. The old design goes bad often and lets the assembly move side to side and will make engagement of 4 low almost impossible, and 2wd difficult.
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Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...pdated-685644/
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Unread 10-12-2011, 01:26 PM   #795
jclaudii
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Does anyone know the spline count of a zj np249 that came out of a limited '97 v8? I'm wanting to (hopefully) pull that 249 yoke off and put it on my nv242 of my '01 grand cherokee. I may have found a double cardan ujoint style with a cv on one end that may work for my wj.

Thanks!
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