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Unread 10-09-2011, 11:23 AM   #766
sskilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediokrates View Post
thanks skilla!

I need your experience.

I'm having trouble with the mode fork pin.

When I move the shift selector into 4 part time, I can see a small hole in the shaft inside the access hole. Is the pin hollow? Out the other end of the shaft I can see something protruding. I don't think the case has been cracked, but I'm not sure if the pin is even in there, but if it isn't I should be able to pull the forks out right? Which I can't.

I've tried my # 1 and 2 extractors. Maybe I'm not applying enough pressure. I'm being fairly gentle, but I tried tapping the extractor in, and drilling it.

I even tried Jr's way of prying the mode fork out, but I don't want to ruin anything, and I don't have enough play on the mode fork and the selector.

Help, this is taking longer than I thought.
yeah the pin is hollow. i had to really jam my #1 in there to get it to work. i know its a small tool, so you probably dont wanna hit it too hard, but smack it a couple good times with a hammer or something to try and make the threads bite.

i personally tried the "pry it out" method if you recall and ended up snapping a 1/4 of the provision on the case that holds the shift rail in there... so pry at your own risk lol

as far as taking longer than you thought... doesnt it always

if you find yourself cussing more than usual.. step away and breath

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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

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Unread 10-09-2011, 12:41 PM   #767
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LOL skilla,

it's like a renovation job, take your best estimate on the time frame and double it.

Anyway, I tried the pry method and it worked, no problem... you just need a second pair of hands and it doesn't take a whole lot of pressure, so nothing damaged yet.

The 242 is now completely apart, so gonna raise the jeep and pull the 249 and do it all over again.

I wanted to make sure I could get the 242 apart before I pulled the 249.

Wish me luck
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Unread 10-09-2011, 06:33 PM   #768
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The 242 is much harder to take apart than the 249. When I'm taking the input shaft from a 249, it takes me about 10 minutes to get what I need and toss the rest to the side. The first time shouldn't take you any more than 30 minutes, as long as the front yoke comes off without too much trouble.
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Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...pdated-685644/
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Unread 10-09-2011, 08:06 PM   #769
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Wow!

I'm honoured that I got the attention of the great and mighty JrMechanic! I'm glad to hear you say that Jr, it makes me feel better about what's ahead of me.

Ok, so things went a little slower today than I had hoped, but luckily I still have Thanksgiving Monday (Canada) tomorrow to work on it.

The rear drive shaft came off easily enough...

The front was a little tougher. One of the bolt heads was slightly stripped on the front output yoke. The 8mm 16 point wrench wouldn't hold, and I had some trouble fitting the ratchet in there. I eventually hammered the ratchet into the spot, and got the bolt loose.

As for the cross bar supporting the trans, well that was even tougher. The 4 15mm bolts were ok, but the 18mm bolt in the bushing was tougher to get at. I had supported the trans behind the oil pan with a floor jack, and then realized that I had to fit another 18mm ratchet to the bolt to undo the nut. I guess I did it a little backwards, loosening the nut, when I should have loosened the bolt. It was a really tight fit getting the bolt out of the bushing as my floor jack was in the way (the bolt is something like 4"). Awkward work for 1 person. I cursed quite a bit, and if I sobbed once or twice, no one can prove it

Well, it's gotten late, and I was tired of working under the jeep with a flash light. I've got the OE jack supporting the bushing (since the curved support is a perfect fit. First thing tomorrow I'll lower the trans and t/c a bit for better access to the bolts. And then hopefully no problems getting the t/c off and apart. Now that I've taken the 242 apart, I think the 249 will go a lot smoother.

Then put it all back together... Sounds pretty simple

I'll let you all know how it went, and then I'll put something together with a few tips from the rough spots I ran into.

Thanks to everyone!

EDIT:

OK, here's a question which will help me immensely tomorrow.
I don't have a seal remover tool, so what's the next best way to remove all the old seals?
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Unread 10-09-2011, 09:40 PM   #770
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mine were in there real friggin good, so i took my big pipe wrench hooked a lip and popped a few veins. just think leverage cause its going to take some muscle if they are anything like mine.

on a side note, i managed to get my linkage back in and functioning. so far i have 2wd, 4 pt, 4 ft, and cant slip it into 4 lo. ill try adjusting the linkage before throwin my finger up and looking to novak for a solution.
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-10-2011, 09:21 AM   #771
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upper passenger side bolt is giving me fits.
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Unread 10-10-2011, 11:17 AM   #772
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the nut is stripped. switched to 14mm, got it almost all back off, the nut is 2 mm from the end of the bolt, and the bolt was backing off, and stripped even more. can't get at to cut I don't think. trying to force a 13mm on to finish it
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Unread 10-10-2011, 12:40 PM   #773
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trying to hack saw the pin in half, but going real slow and awkwad position. AFather in law doesn't want to hit it with a torch b/c of the break lines there.

Any ideas

EDIT: Hack saw was no good. hammered the 9/16 socket back on, and got a few partial turns, then stripped more. hammered the 14mm on, got some turns, and the pin broke. yippee!
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Unread 10-10-2011, 01:47 PM   #774
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tips on how to wiggle the t/c out would be appreciated!

EDIT: I've got a floor jack under the rear housing, and have a 2mm gap exposed on the bottom but best I can do. Since I'm not using this 249 I tried hitting it with a sledge, broke off a piece. oops. No going back now
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Unread 10-10-2011, 03:38 PM   #775
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just wanted to say great writeup.

just swapped a 231 into my ZJ. was clean and went smooth. first time something on a ZJ went semi smooth. just wanted to say the write up is pretty bang on.

cheers
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Unread 10-10-2011, 03:50 PM   #776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediokrates View Post
tips on how to wiggle the t/c out would be appreciated!

EDIT: I've got a floor jack under the rear housing, and have a 2mm gap exposed on the bottom but best I can do. Since I'm not using this 249 I tried hitting it with a sledge, broke off a piece. oops. No going back now
hmm.. once i had a gap i was able to get a big screw driver in there and just sort of leverage it back and forth real hard and inch it out

edit: there never was a "going back"
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-10-2011, 03:55 PM   #777
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does the t/c need to be in neutral?

I must be missing something, the top doesn't want to come lose.

6 nuts
the speedo
shift sensor
brake line clip
shifter linkage
vent tube

i even removed 5 of the 6 pins for the nuts, so only 1 pin (guess which one) holding it in.
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Unread 10-10-2011, 03:56 PM   #778
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mine was. im not 100% if it NEEDS to be, but its worth a shot.
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-10-2011, 04:10 PM   #779
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EDIT: I JUST READ THE REST OF YOUR POST

Only thing I can see not on the list is both drive shafts
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Unread 10-10-2011, 04:21 PM   #780
Mediokrates
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yeah, unplugged the speedosensor and removed it.
unplugged the shift sensor,
undid the vent tube
popped the shift lever off the linkage rod
completely removed front and rear drive shafts
removed the 6 nuts to the trans,
removed 5 of the 6 pins for those nuts

I have a jack under the trans, behind the oil pan,
and when I jack under the t/c, a gap opens,

but the top, where the remaining pin is, doesn't want to come loose.

tried removing t/c in both 4full & neutral

gonna try in 4lo now

was even trying to remove the rear case, before I realized have to remove the yoke first
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