Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 51 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-04-2011, 08:34 AM   #751
somebody5788
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Ok I have a question. The NP242, everything I have read is that it uses a "gear system similar to an open dif" then I also read that the H1 uses a stronger version of the NP242. I know the H1 uses a torsen center dif, does that mean this one does too? I have a torsen dif in my A4 and I just can't express how epic it is in the snow, it goes places that even trucks are scared of. Like last year, my buddy got off work at like 10 and couldn't get out of the parking lot in his BMW. He got a ride with some guy in a Chevy 1500, the guy drove off the road a couple times on the way to my shop. While I was just sitting there spinning in circles and drifting around my parking lot LOL.

Alright back on topic though, is the 242 a torsen dif like this and if so what mode is it? part time or full time?


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Unread 10-04-2011, 06:14 PM   #752
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negative, at least based on appearance its not.
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Unread 10-06-2011, 10:23 PM   #753
Darman
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ok so i can pick this 242 up for 100$. i have a 95 v8 with a 249 and a ESY

so this new one is an 02 242 with an ISY and a different front drive shaft connection.
does the front drive shaft connection just unbolt and i can put in my pinion yoke one?
also for the rear, do you just slide the drive shaft yoke over the end? is that how it works?
my stock rear drive shaft wont work correct cause its an ISY and my stock TC was external?
or is there a way to take of the ISY and put my old ESY on it?
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Unread 10-07-2011, 12:05 AM   #754
csouers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darman
ok so i can pick this 242 up for 100$. i have a 95 v8 with a 249 and a ESY

so this new one is an 02 242 with an ISY and a different front drive shaft connection.
does the front drive shaft connection just unbolt and i can put in my pinion yoke one?
also for the rear, do you just slide the drive shaft yoke over the end? is that how it works?
my stock rear drive shaft wont work correct cause its an ISY and my stock TC was external?
or is there a way to take of the ISY and put my old ESY on it?
That case will not work. It does not have a speedosensor hole. You can not just put the 249 rear case on it. The front output yokes are swappable. Yes, the rear driveshaft just slides off.

Keep looking my friend.
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Unread 10-07-2011, 06:15 PM   #755
Mediokrates
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OK,

Taking my ZJ up to the farm tomorrow, and going to start on the 242 swap.
Got my seals today, and going to pick up the RTV and ATF fluid in the morning.

The FSM says to use Mopar ATF plus, type 7176 or Dexron II for the transfer case. Since Dexron II isn't made anymore, what would be the current Dexron to use?

What is the equivalent for Mopar ATF plus? ATF 4?

Thanks
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Unread 10-07-2011, 06:32 PM   #756
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i used atf +4
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Unread 10-07-2011, 08:32 PM   #757
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In both trans and tc?
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Unread 10-07-2011, 09:52 PM   #758
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yeah. im runnin some cheap stuff right now. ill drain and put in some good stuff after ive run it a bit, just in case i left some shavings or junk in there from the swap.
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

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Unread 10-07-2011, 09:58 PM   #759
Mediokrates
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Thanks,

Something to consider. I'll be sure to post if I run into any problems.

Thanks all
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Unread 10-08-2011, 08:18 PM   #760
Mediokrates
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Hi all,

I think I need some help.

OK, my first snag... I can't get the yoke nut loose. I had a guy holding down the transfer case, while I torqued the nut, but it wouldn't come loose. I just ended up lifting the guy up off the ground. I might wait until one or two more big guys show up to help hold it down.

But from what I can tell, you only need to take the yoke off to change the front output seal.

Talking about seals... I kinda worried about this.
I'm not sure the guys at Napa gave me the right input seal.

This is the original one in the 242:


This is the one from Napa:


They look completely different. I think the one from Napa will fit in the front bearing retainer... and I know the input shaft from the 242 will fit through it.
Both sides look the same. One lip with a spring around it. Is this right? My friend thinks it might be a newer version of the seal.

Any ideas
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Unread 10-08-2011, 10:03 PM   #761
sskilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediokrates View Post
Hi all,

I think I need some help.

OK, my first snag... I can't get the yoke nut loose. I had a guy holding down the transfer case, while I torqued the nut, but it wouldn't come loose. I just ended up lifting the guy up off the ground. I might wait until one or two more big guys show up to help hold it down.

But from what I can tell, you only need to take the yoke off to change the front output seal.

Talking about seals... I kinda worried about this.
I'm not sure the guys at Napa gave me the right input seal.

This is the original one in the 242:


This is the one from Napa:


They look completely different. I think the one from Napa will fit in the front bearing retainer... and I know the input shaft from the 242 will fit through it.
Both sides look the same. One lip with a spring around it. Is this right? My friend thinks it might be a newer version of the seal.

Any ideas
the front yoke is tuff. i had a big @$$ pipe wrench on the yoke itself and my ratchet with a breaker bar on the nut and managed it. soak it with PB blaster if its really stuck and give it another go.

that seal from napa is the double lip seal that JrMechanic recommends in his write up. its good, i used the same one.

keep us informed
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

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Unread 10-08-2011, 10:34 PM   #762
Dyn0mitemat
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I used that same seal that youre wondering about above, and its working great
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Unread 10-09-2011, 07:19 AM   #763
Mediokrates
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Thanks guys,

The guy from Napa told me it was the single lip, but ok, my bonus.

Does it fit flush with the rim of the retainer, like the oe seal, or does it protrude?

I sprayed the yoke nut with liquid wrench, and it's been soaking all night.
I've got 2 200lb guys here now, so I'll get them to try and hold it down. I'll put the ratchet on the nut with a biz pipe on the end for leverage.

I'll get back to ya.
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Unread 10-09-2011, 10:01 AM   #764
sskilla
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the seal should sit flush i believe
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'95 ZJ: 5.2 v8 / 249 > 242 > 231 Tcase swap / 46RH / 3.5" IRO + 1.5" pucks / IRO Adj Front Lower CA's / IRO Double Shear Adj Track Bar / 33" BFG KM2's / JKS Quicker Disco's / IRO rear end links / Kegger Mod / Super 44 Flowmaster / Novak Cable Shifter / Kevins Radiator Support / JKS Bar pin eliminators / Yukon Chromoly Rear Axles / IRO SS Brake Lines / Stillen cross-drilled rotors / Flowcooler water pump

It's got guts. Jeep guts. Jeep, the toughest four letter word on wheels. F@#% Yeah.

R.I.P. 2000 TJ
R.I.P. '95 YJ

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Unread 10-09-2011, 11:16 AM   #765
Mediokrates
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thanks skilla!

I need your experience.

I'm having trouble with the mode fork pin.

When I move the shift selector into 4 part time, I can see a small hole in the shaft inside the access hole. Is the pin hollow? Out the other end of the shaft I can see something protruding. I don't think the case has been cracked, but I'm not sure if the pin is even in there, but if it isn't I should be able to pull the forks out right? Which I can't.

I've tried my # 1 and 2 extractors. Maybe I'm not applying enough pressure. I'm being fairly gentle, but I tried tapping the extractor in, and drilling it.

I even tried Jr's way of prying the mode fork out, but I don't want to ruin anything, and I don't have enough play on the mode fork and the selector.

Help, this is taking longer than I thought.

EDIT: OK I shone a flash light in thru the access hole, and I can see a protrusion around that small hole, so unless anyone says differently, I think the pin is in place, and it is hollow. Unfortunately, I stripped my #1 extractor and the 2 just went missing. Gonna have to go out and get another.
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