"Now to remove the shifter assembly (Inside the case). By the shifter there is a small rubber plug. Remove this plug and use a #1 screw type extractor to remove the low range shift fork rollpin. Tap the extractor into the end of the rollpin, and with vice grips on the extractor pull and twist in a counterclockwise direction to remove the rollpin. It may take 2 or three tries to remove the rollpin. If you cannot get the screw extractor to “bite”, I had to drill out the rollpin, essentially shredding the rollpin inside the shaft. Then I punched what was left of it through with the 5/32 punch. You’re going to have to go pick up another rollpin if you go this route. Pay special attention to the flats on the shaft when you remove it so you get it back in the same way. When you put this back together you’ll need to reinstall this rollpin."
This gentleman suggested using a screw extractor, but himself drilled it out and replaced it.
I'm starting to gather the tools and parts I'll need, and I'm curious whether this pin can be tapped out with a hammer and narrow tool. The FSM only says to slide it out!
when i did mine, i was able to get it out without removing the pin. pried it out using 2 big screw drivers, and save to get it in. it was a little tricky and took a few minutes. thats how i would do it, if i did it again.
'98 ZJ on 37s and tons
'97 Cummins 2500
I'm thinking it would probably have to be something like a lefty spiral extractor, not the ones meant for stripped screw heads.
OK, 3 more questions:
1. the refill and empty plugs are 30mm? They're on pretty tight, anything special about removing them. I was gonna get a socket or wrench, my adjustable just won't do it.
2. the front yoke nut. what size is that... 1 1/8"?
3. the FSM says to replace both the nut and washer seal under it. Is this necessary?
Screw extractor I just used one like this:
I litterally just lined it up, give it two or three light hits with the hammer, gave it a few twists with a wrench and then pulled it out with a pair of vice grips.
I dunno what size the fill hole plug is, but i just used a big *** crescent wrench (it has a 2" opening and is the better part of 2' long) and I still had trouble opening mine. Just use some elbow grease and it should come off. Just DONT heat it. Case is aluminum and you'll end up melting it if your not careful, just use a wrench/socket and some muscle and you'll be fine.
Dunno on the yoke, I just used the socket under the label "big ***" in my drawer
And I reused the nut and seal with mine and have no problems
Did you have any problems getting it back in? Or did you find any tricky places in the entire process that might be good to know?
I just measured the plug bolts, and they appear to be 30mm (on the 242, I think it's the same size on the 249).
Did the same thing with the yoke nut (a little trickier, b/c it's still inside the yoke), but it looks like it is 1 1/8.
Anyone confirm this?
I put some liquid wrench around the plug bolts, but no luck. The only tool I have at hand big enough is my adjustable wrench. Though I don't think it's tough enough, the plug started to dent the jaw.
it seems someone upstairs was listening to me yesterday and took pity on me.
i was able to get the roller pin out with the #1 screw extractor. hell.. once you do that the rest is cake. i know i tried the big screw drivers at first because i didnt want to mess with finding a new rollerpin should i shred this one but now i wish i had just gone straight for the screw extractor :
however, i have just this moment finished torquing the bolts for the case halves back together, a satisfying squish of ultra black.
i had it together once to test the function of each position and all was good before the RTV for good measure (scraping off last nights RTV was totally lame...)
hopefully ill get it back in the jeep tomarrow after work to give it the real test... wish me luck ya'll, im really hoping the broken section of the shift rail provision doesnt come and bite me real hard in the arse.
Whats this about a roll pin Being an issue to remove? Iv bin inside a 231 with no issue but never opened a 242or249 got any pics of the issue part so i can understand?
not sure about the but in the 242 the rollerpin (little tube that holds the shift rail to the range fork) prevents you from easily aligning the range fork and mode fork pins into the shift selector at the same time. removing it allows for you to set the forks in place and then slide the shift rail into the two assemlies.