Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 23 - JeepForum.com
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post #331 of 3106 Old 03-21-2011, 09:58 AM
ArmyVet717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark4370 View Post
The linkage has no part of your vic reading it in the switch or the vic. You can un hook the tc and move the selector your self and see its still going to read rong.
I know that the linkage has nothing to do with the VIC. I need to crawl under and make sure I am hitting all gears then worry about the VIC after. I just know it is not reading correctly. For all I know, I may not be "fully" engaged in 2H, and the switch is telling the VIC I am in "Full Time" still. Like I said, I will worry about the VIC once I KNOW I am hitting all gears...


'96 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 5.2L, NP242 Swap, Closing in on 300K miles, 4.5" RE lift, Tow Pig: 04 Dodge Durango SLT, 4.7L
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post #332 of 3106 Old 03-21-2011, 10:01 AM
jlipka98zj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyVet717 View Post
I know that the linkage has nothing to do with the VIC. I need to crawl under and make sure I am hitting all gears then worry about the VIC after. I just know it is not reading correctly. For all I know, I may not be "fully" engaged in 2H, and the switch is telling the VIC I am in "Full Time" still. Like I said, I will worry about the VIC once I KNOW I am hitting all gears...
That's exactly what I was saying. True, the linkage doesn't directly affect the VIC, but it could be giving you "half-positions" or stuff like that, which is confusing the 4WD switch/VIC.

Get ur linkage sorted out then worry about the VIC. I wouldn't be surprised if adjusting the linkage correctly makes all ur probs go away.

'98 5.9 Limited - Got some stuff done to it...
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post #333 of 3106 Old 03-21-2011, 10:06 AM
ArmyVet717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlipka98zj View Post
Sounds like your linkage needs to be adjusted (which is easy) AND/OR your 4WD switch may be bad. The linkage is easy to adjust. There is a bolt on the round rod that you loosen. THe linkage should be free to pivot. Get a friend to manipulate the lever while you adjust it. Keep tinkering until you get it.

If you still get the same malfunctioning readout after you are able to get into all ranges, you might try replacing the switch.

As an aside, there ARE different pieces for the linkage on the 242 than the 249 besides the selector lever on the case. I'm guessing there are different length rods and shifter gates and whatnot. Most people don't bother getting them because you CAN get your 249 linkage to work. As a last resort, you could buy the 242 pieces and give them a shot. But I just think your linkage needs adjusted for now.
I am sure your right, it's just the linkage. I just need to find a DRY day to get underneath that thing and screw around with it. I do have 2 linkages, 1 short, 1 long. The long linkage, which the shop told me was originally on my 249 is the one they used on the 242. But, I did auire the shorter linkage that came off a 242, so if all else fails, I have a backup that I can try. I may have to adjust the "tab" that is attached to the TC so that I have more room to go all the way forward since it's hitting the pivoting rod. Oh well, one of these days!!

'96 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 5.2L, NP242 Swap, Closing in on 300K miles, 4.5" RE lift, Tow Pig: 04 Dodge Durango SLT, 4.7L
http://www.facebook.com/#!/smontgomery717
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post #334 of 3106 Old 03-21-2011, 10:12 AM
jlipka98zj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyVet717 View Post
I am sure your right, it's just the linkage. I just need to find a DRY day to get underneath that thing and screw around with it. I do have 2 linkages, 1 short, 1 long. The long linkage, which the shop told me was originally on my 249 is the one they used on the 242. But, I did auire the shorter linkage that came off a 242, so if all else fails, I have a backup that I can try. I may have to adjust the "tab" that is attached to the TC so that I have more room to go all the way forward since it's hitting the pivoting rod. Oh well, one of these days!!
That's correct. The long one is off the 249 and the short one is off the 242. If you think about it, this makes sense. The 242 has more "positions" to get into, so it needs an arm with a shorter "throw" to get into all the positions because the throw of the lever inside the jeep is fixed. You only have so much room to move the lever so the difference has to be made up in the TC lever.

The 249 has fewer positions and thus requires less throw. If you put the 249 lever on a 242, you will not be able to get into all positions. The positions that you won't be able to get into will vary depending on the individual adjustment on your Jeep.

Sounds like you might just need to put the other lever one and adjust your linkage...

'98 5.9 Limited - Got some stuff done to it...
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post #335 of 3106 Old 03-21-2011, 06:15 PM
FamilyCrawler
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What a long thread!

OK so I appologize right now for asking a question that I guess has been discussed a little but here it goes. I read through page 14 and was like ok not the answer I am looking for yet...

I have a 98 JGC with the 5.9l and 46RE transmission. I swapped my 249 for a 231 since the VC was shot so why not, it was the same price as replacing the VC. Anyways, swap went well and while I was at it I put an SYE kit on it, a 4.5" RE lift and new driveshafts. I pulled an 89 231 and the input shaft was the same as my 249 but I went ahead and replaced all the bearings and seals while I had it open. 231 seems to work ok but the last couple of times out offroading I noticed the case slipped out of 4Lo a few times and spun. I got home and cut the shift shaft since it was hitting the transmission shaft and it seemed to work better the last time out. I think a few others experienced this??? My other question is I would really like to get the computer to light up correctly but the 89 231 case I got has only two pin and the sensor shaft is different than the 249. Is there a replacement sensor or a wiring mod that will get it to work? It seems I have hear that somewhere. Again if this has been answered jsut redirect please.
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post #336 of 3106 Old 03-22-2011, 10:58 AM
ArmyVet717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlipka98zj View Post
That's correct. The long one is off the 249 and the short one is off the 242. If you think about it, this makes sense. The 242 has more "positions" to get into, so it needs an arm with a shorter "throw" to get into all the positions because the throw of the lever inside the jeep is fixed. You only have so much room to move the lever so the difference has to be made up in the TC lever.

The 249 has fewer positions and thus requires less throw. If you put the 249 lever on a 242, you will not be able to get into all positions. The positions that you won't be able to get into will vary depending on the individual adjustment on your Jeep.

Sounds like you might just need to put the other lever one and adjust your linkage...
That's is exactly what I was thinking... I am going to swap the linkages on the TC and go from there. I think it will solve at least the shifting part of my problem. It may solve the VIC problem, if not I will look at replacing the sensor. Are they available at parts stores or would that be a custom order type part??

'96 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 5.2L, NP242 Swap, Closing in on 300K miles, 4.5" RE lift, Tow Pig: 04 Dodge Durango SLT, 4.7L
http://www.facebook.com/#!/smontgomery717
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post #337 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 10:10 AM
kevinaubertine
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ok the more i read the more confused i get. I have a 94gl ltd. So i guess it has a 249? i don't like having the all wheel drive it puts a lot of strain on the front tires and they where out fast. I think i want to swap for the 242 because i live in a place that get snow for five to six months. What Im wondering is what should i be looking for in the transfer case as far as production dates yoke slips. I i have to change input shafts i will. But im just curious what my options are. I would like for it to be easy as possible but realistically thats just not my luck. Also are there any fuel economy advantages to the swap? What are the seals i need?
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post #338 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 10:15 AM
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i meant they *wear out fast.
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post #339 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 10:25 AM
speedbucket
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read the first page. it tells you all of that, i think it even has seal part numbers

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #340 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 10:43 AM
kevinaubertine
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i re read the first page. And it answered most of the questions. What about fuel economy?
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post #341 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 11:16 AM
PlatinumNiner
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Fuel economy is marginal at best. Performance however is quite a bit better and turning is much better.
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post #342 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 11:52 AM
kevinaubertine
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Well even marginal is better. How about the tires? Will i be wearing out front tires as fast? I cant seem to rotate them often enough and the ones on the front wear twice as fast as the back. What about locking hubs would that help with this transfer case swap i mean make it a better system and more efficient?
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post #343 of 3106 Old 03-24-2011, 04:19 PM
PlatinumNiner
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yes it helps with the tires and you cant do locking hubs. Your 249 is shot thats why your having all these problems. 242 will solve them all.
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post #344 of 3106 Old 03-25-2011, 10:51 AM
solomon8718
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Hey guys. So I just did my 242 swap and I have a couple of follow up questions. Now, to confirm the 242 options should be: 2h-4ft-N-4hi-4lo right? Is that the correct order? That being the case it seems I'm not able to shift it into 4lo because its hitting my shifter bezel. It still has the quadra-trac bezel. Should the bezel be be in the way or do I need to adjust the linkage some more?
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post #345 of 3106 Old 03-25-2011, 12:43 PM
squazz
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242 = 2hi-4ft-4pt-N-4lo
231 = 2hi-4hi-N-4lo
249 = 4hi-N-4lo
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