Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 156 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242

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Unread 08-14-2014, 06:15 PM   #2326
mandrews000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigdogg View Post
I am new and have read this over and over it is great. I am going to the yard and getting a 231 my 249 cv is going. I gave read and am sure if I get the 96-01 XJ 231 it sounds line a direct swap. Who ever has done this if they could guide me I have to do this over the weekend and need it to at least drive in 2wd. I have a 98 grand 5.9 limited thanks.
I had to shorten my rear drive shaft about an inch and also my front.

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Unread 08-14-2014, 07:08 PM   #2327
Bigdogg
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http://www.areds.com/wichita/Dodge•O...20CD.pdf#page3 here is a lot of t case info. I know it is from canada but here is another one http://www.canadawideparts.com/downl...ecatalogue.pdf
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Unread 08-14-2014, 07:11 PM   #2328
Bigdogg
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When you shorten your d shaft can you just cut an inch of the splines? On the yoke.
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Unread 08-14-2014, 07:52 PM   #2329
mrgimble
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Originally Posted by Bigdogg View Post
When you shorten your d shaft can you just cut an inch of the splines? On the yoke.
If you just cut an inch of the drive shaft yoke you will only prevent the drive shaft from hitting the transfer case. The transfer case output can still bottom out inside the yoke.
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Unread 08-14-2014, 08:16 PM   #2330
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigdogg View Post
When you shorten your d shaft can you just cut an inch of the splines? On the yoke.
No


you need to cut and re-weld the actual tube. easy to do with tools most already have in a decent garage. I have cut down over a dozen shafts and none have had any vibes or ill effects once done. The rear shaft in my ZJ DD was done just in my home garage with no special tools.

Best way it to cut the weld where the Yoke meets the tube, and the Yoke is actually inserted into the tube by 1/2" or so. tap it out with a deadblow hammer, cut the tube to desired length, clean up and re-insert the yoke, align it all properly and re-weld. Keep a good even weld and dont cut off any factory weights and it should be pretty well balanced.
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Unread 08-14-2014, 11:42 PM   #2331
MurdaJs
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Originally Posted by underpowered View Post
No


you need to cut and re-weld the actual tube. easy to do with tools most already have in a decent garage. I have cut down over a dozen shafts and none have had any vibes or ill effects once done. The rear shaft in my ZJ DD was done just in my home garage with no special tools.

Best way it to cut the weld where the Yoke meets the tube, and the Yoke is actually inserted into the tube by 1/2" or so. tap it out with a deadblow hammer, cut the tube to desired length, clean up and re-insert the yoke, align it all properly and re-weld. Keep a good even weld and dont cut off any factory weights and it should be pretty well balanced.
I've heard to throw a shot or two of ATF in the tube to balance it. If I had a rotary setup for the driveshaft, I'd be less worried as the weld could be done in one smooth pass. But stopping, rotating, and restarting gives more opportunity for a uneven weld so I think I'm going to try the ATF trick next time
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Unread 08-15-2014, 08:16 PM   #2332
underpowered
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Originally Posted by MurdaJs View Post
I've heard to throw a shot or two of ATF in the tube to balance it. If I had a rotary setup for the driveshaft, I'd be less worried as the weld could be done in one smooth pass. But stopping, rotating, and restarting gives more opportunity for a uneven weld so I think I'm going to try the ATF trick next time
Never tried the ATF trick, but i have heard of it before.

I try to minimize passes, i can usually do on in just 3 shots to keep the starts/stops to a minimum. i would love to be able to do it in just one pass, but i don't have a setup for that as most do not.
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Unread 08-16-2014, 06:52 PM   #2333
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You can cut the splines on the driveshaft if it's only a small amount. I did it. I've driven and wheeled it pretty hard that way for a couple years now. I have 0 vibes and have had 0 issues with it. I'm not saying it will work that well for you, but don't take "no" as your final answer. You'll be making a gamble cutting it; if it gets messed up, junk yard shafts are cheap anyway.
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Unread 08-17-2014, 08:24 PM   #2334
Bigdogg
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Will the 231 speedometer gears work inplace of the 249 gears or can I put the 249 speedometer in the 231. Or did I miss this one in the write up.
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Unread 08-17-2014, 09:56 PM   #2335
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Will the 231 speedometer gears work inplace of the 249 gears or can I put the 249 speedometer in the 231. Or did I miss this one in the write up.
You put the 249 spedo in the 231. Thats what i did with my 231 swap. I think it even says to do so in the write up.
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Unread 08-18-2014, 04:44 PM   #2336
Bigdogg
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That is what I thought I just picked up my 231. I found 1 with no oil on the case. Everything moved free. How much slack on the chain should there be. I have very little seems normal. It is from a 98 cherokee I looked at a 249 from a 98 and the length of the shaft looked the same also with 23 splines.
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Unread 08-25-2014, 06:35 AM   #2337
thcheme
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Dropped the 249 from my 95 this weekend. That 12 o'clock bolt was a pain in the you know what. After 30 minutes of every tool in the box, finally decided to drop the transmission cross brace. Was a lot easier with access. Now for the 242 front case swap and rebuild this coming weekend!

Oh, and ATF was running from the transmission when tilted down. Definitely needs a new seal.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 10:26 AM   #2338
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Got al new seals for my swap also.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 09:14 AM   #2339
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In process of converting my 98GC 2wd to 4wd and got a 242 t-case. In Texas 4wd parts are a little more challenging to find in junkyards.

Found a really good tutorial on a Mustang forum on how to shorten a driveshaft at home with minimum tools. If the rear driveshaft that I got for it is slightly too long I'm going to give this a shot. Also installing an 8.8 axle so that's going to shorten the distance between yokes.

Pretty brilliant to check runout by bolting it up to the vehicle before welding, then welding it once it's set up with minimal runout.
http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/tran...riveshaft.html
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Unread 09-01-2014, 11:42 AM   #2340
tsargent
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I'm looking to swap a 231 into my zj with a bad 249. Yes i know, half of you are thinking why? Are you stupid? No it's what I want. I'm just curious, because the shift indicator sensor will not work from the 249 in the 231 how do you go around that? Do you hardwire the 231 plug in or could you even just forget about it because it isn't really that important anyways? Thank for the help guys
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