Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 114 - JeepForum.com

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post #1696 of 3248 Old 09-23-2013, 08:03 PM
zarnold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsterchick15
I removed my busted 231 and am replacing it with a used one. Got it in, and realized I am missing three bolts. I cannot find ANYWHERE online what these bolts are and have wasted my whole free evening looking for the ones I lost and running up to auto parts places, failing. Do you know what size the mounting bolts are by chance??? Any help would be much appreciated guys!
Are you talking about the nuts that thread onto the mounting studs? If so, I believe they are 15mm.

Or are you missing the studs?


[edit] They are 14mm.


Last edited by zarnold; 09-26-2013 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Correction
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post #1697 of 3248 Old 09-24-2013, 02:25 PM
hondakilla98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post

With stock control arms, the more lift you have, the more likely you're going to have to shorten the driveshaft.
What about with aftermarket arms? I have upper and lower adjustables in the rear.

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post #1698 of 3248 Old 09-24-2013, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondakilla98 View Post
What about with aftermarket arms? I have upper and lower adjustables in the rear.
It depends on how you adjust them.

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post #1699 of 3248 Old 09-24-2013, 09:39 PM
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Strange how people with the same Jeeps have such different results. I have roughly 20,000 miles on my niner since i put the 242 in with no problems. Its all street miles it doesnt get wheeled but still no problems at all with the stock rear shaft at stock length.

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post #1700 of 3248 Old 09-25-2013, 07:02 AM
Myusername1674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepsterchick15 View Post
I removed my busted 231 and am replacing it with a used one. Got it in, and realized I am missing three bolts. I cannot find ANYWHERE online what these bolts are and have wasted my whole free evening looking for the ones I lost and running up to auto parts places, failing. Do you know what size the mounting bolts are by chance??? Any help would be much appreciated guys!
Whenever I break or lose a bolt I take one of the one's I still have and go to Ace or Home depot. You can check thread size and pattern and buy a matching bolt in grade 8 that should be plenty strong enough. I'm actually going to go do this today in fact, to replace a bolt that I broke off in the uni-rail.

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post #1701 of 3248 Old 09-25-2013, 06:43 PM
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Great post. One swap out complete on my 94 grand. Now we are doing my friends on his grand this weekend. Both had 249 swapped to 242.
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post #1702 of 3248 Old 09-25-2013, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frost4 View Post
Great post. One swap out complete on my 94 grand. Now we are doing my friends on his grand this weekend. Both had 249 swapped to 242.
Nice
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post #1703 of 3248 Old 09-26-2013, 01:02 PM
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Alright, got my 231 swap done. Mostly, still need to shorten the driveshaft. But I have an odd problem now, it can drive in 4wd, (Front driveshaft in, no rear.) But when I put it in 2wd (Still no rear driveshaft), the transmission doesn't want to go into park, it will only grind if i try to. (It grinds just like a manual transmission does if the clutch is not pressed in). Anybody have any ideas?? In a few minutes I'm gonna go give it a try with the jeep rolling and transmission in neutral, to see if that makes it fully engage the 2wd.

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post #1704 of 3248 Old 09-26-2013, 08:29 PM
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Don't do that. It's normal. It'll do it with the tcase in neutral as well. Without the rear driveshaft in, the yoke is spinning on the transfer case even when you're stopped. The gears in the trans are turning.

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post #1705 of 3248 Old 09-27-2013, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
Don't do that. It's normal. It'll do it with the tcase in neutral as well. Without the rear driveshaft in, the yoke is spinning on the transfer case even when you're stopped. The gears in the trans are turning.
Thanks for the response, I was thinking that might be the problem so I thought better of trying to force it in.

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post #1706 of 3248 Old 09-27-2013, 03:12 PM
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Long time lurker (circa 1997-99 was when I was a little more active; at least I think it was JF; old-school BBS style format back then). My build threads are elsewhere. I have read through 96 posts in this thread referring to "VIC" and have not found my answer. Cutting to the chase:

My wife had a '95 4.0/42RE/NP231 ZJ. We picked up a '98 5.9/46RE/NP249HD. I obviously wanted to keep the NP231 for the 5.9L. I grabbed another NP249 from a '98 so that I'd have a donor on hand in case I needed to pull the input shaft, etc.

The only issue I had was the bearing collar inside the input shaft on the NP231, so I had to pull the case apart to remove the collar. Aside from that, it was bolt-in, and had the correct .840" input. Even the indicator switch on the NP231 was the 4-prong style, allowing it to plug directly into the '98 wiring harness.

To prep the '95 for sale, I took the "spare" NP249 and tossed it behind the 42RE. Both shift gates, bezels, and springs were transferred for clean swaps. Both cases cleanly shift through all appropriate ranges. I now want to make the VICs work correctly because I'm anal, it it'll look better for selling the '95.

I started with the '95 last night, wanting it to display the proper NP249 tire lights and "lo". Because the '95 came with an NP231 originally, I expected to find the black plugs connected. Much to my dismay, the RED plugs were connected, and the black plugs were taped to the harness! With the red plugs connected, it lights up all four tires in NEUTRAL! All four tires disappear when in high and low ranges. With the black plugs connected, it wants to just display the rear tires.

Is there a difference between the NP249 and NP231 VICs in early ZJs? I know the NP249 was available in '95, so this should have been a clean swap with the proper display.

What should I expect the 5.9L VIC to be able to display when I swap the plugs on the back of the '98?
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post #1707 of 3248 Old 09-27-2013, 04:13 PM
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Afaik, you can't make a VIC display for a 231. They'll only work with 242s and 249s. I think a GDM may work with a 231, but don't hold me to that.

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post #1708 of 3248 Old 09-27-2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ejschultz View Post
Afaik, you can't make a VIC display for a 231. They'll only work with 242s and 249s. I think a GDM may work with a 231, but don't hold me to that.
The VIC in the '95 correctly displayed for the NP231 when they were both factory installed by Chrysler, and it displayed correctly up until two weeks ago when I pulled the case out.

I recognize that the '96-'98 VIC is probably actually a different part number, which may prohibit the '95 NP231 from displaying correctly. (I haven't ripped into the '98 dash yet; I need to swap a stereo, run wires for the VHF, and solder the back of the VIC for the "coolant temp switch" warning, as well as the back of the headlight switch for the auto-headlight-flickering issue. Those are all scheduled for this weekend.)

But what about the VIC in the '95? What do I need to do to make it recognize the NP249? Right now all four tires light up with the RED plug connected, but only when in neutral. When the NP249 is in either high or low range, all four tires go blank.
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post #1709 of 3248 Old 09-27-2013, 06:15 PM
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Honestly, I can't answer that one. Maybe it's a different VIC for ZJs with factory equipped 231s.

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post #1710 of 3248 Old 09-27-2013, 08:44 PM
zarnold
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWC View Post
But what about the VIC in the '95? What do I need to do to make it recognize the NP249? Right now all four tires light up with the RED plug connected, but only when in neutral. When the NP249 is in either high or low range, all four tires go blank.
So, it's working (kind of), maybe a switch from a 95 249. Or, maybe you can adjust the switch using washers. There is a thread on nagca, where a user did this to get his VIC working after a 231 swap.
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