Transfer Case Swap Info NP249->NP231 & NP242 - Page 10 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-01-2010, 12:22 PM   #136
jlipka98zj
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Green River, Wyoming
Posts: 283
Quote:
Originally Posted by outlawjeep View Post
Wow, finished the swap yesterday. Man that was a breeze. Really didn't take anytime at all and I was able to re-use the stock drive shaft. The XJ one was too short. I do have to say though I didn't realize how much heavier the 249 was compared to the 231.

Thanks again everyone for the info.


On a side note I think I know how to get the 4wd indicator lights working w/ the 231 2 wire plug just need to find a ZJ wiring diagram for a '96. Anyone got one?



Ray
Hope this is okay to post:

Try JeepsLimited.com

You can download the FSM's there, which contain the wiring diagrams. I remember specifically there are a couple pages devoted to the transfer case wiring. It tells you what wire is sending what signal to make the VIC show each specific condition.

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Unread 10-01-2010, 08:32 PM   #137
Oli
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Thanks MurdaJs for the link, this is exactly what I needed.

I live in a small place with a single junkyard around, and they do not keep a lot of zj. So I wanted to know if theses internal slip yoke transfer case are availables in other models such as xj's, and if they will still fit without trouble, expect changing the input shaft.

Oli
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Unread 10-02-2010, 02:01 PM   #138
rogo
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1995 ZJ 
 
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would anyone have the part number for the rear output seal on a ext slip 242j?
all parts stores lists the same seal the 4370n for all jeep tc's... that seal is for the int slip. i did find a number on line 4798117 but they all say that number can not be crossed.

this is the correct seal
NAPA # 18108 $20.00. :P

Last edited by rogo; 10-04-2010 at 01:38 PM.. Reason: got the correct seal added number for future ref.
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Unread 10-03-2010, 07:59 PM   #139
Oli
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Hello,

I have an other newbie question. The serial # on my transfer case is 10 25 94 1, and according to the service manual, the production date is 10/25/1994... So luckily, I have the worst case possible for a swap.

Is it correct to think than theses solutions would work in my case :

1. Get a pre 94.5 case, swap the input shaft and keep the back cover of my np249 with the new hole. (any link showing where this hole must be drilled?).

2. Get a post 94.5 and pre 96 case with an internal slip yoke and only swap input shaft.

3. Get a post 96 case with external slip yoke and also get the rear driveshaft from the donor. Swap the input shaft and change the driveshafts for donor's one (will this work?).

I really dont want to buy a new input shaft that will cost the same price as the TC, so this is not an option...

Thanks again.
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Unread 10-04-2010, 06:58 AM   #140
jlipka98zj
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Location: Green River, Wyoming
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I have a question. I am getting ready to do this swap on my Niner. However, I am throwing in the added complication of doing the Tom Woods SYE at the same time. Now, when you buy the SYE package from Tom Woods, apparently he knows the difference in length between the ESY/ISY and the SYE setups. Thus, you tell him your existing driveshaft length and he provides a new shaft with the kit that is the proper length. Of course, this is for going from a slip-yoke 242 to a non-slip-yoke 242. No mention of a 249. When I called Tom Woods, they were unable to provide any useful insight.

So, my question is, assuming the 249 you are replacing and the 242 you are swapping in have similar outputs, is the lengths different enough to need a different driveshaft? Put another way, say I have an ESY 249 and I swap in an ESY 242 - would I need a new driveshaft? If so, how much longer/shorter would it need to be (roughly)? Tom Woods would take care of the additional driveshaft length necessitated by the SYE kit, but if I needed additional material added/removed, this would be the time to do it. TIA!
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Unread 10-05-2010, 05:08 AM   #141
Candymancan
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is the transfer case in my 5.9 dying or something ? It felt fine when i test drove it but i didnt get much of a chance to test it on tight turns because of the area it was for sale in.

I have no problems driving the car changing lanes, or making those right turns on a red light, or left turns. Some at pretty good angles and it drove smoothly ( a little more rough then my mom 4.0 while in 2wd tho). I've done a few u-turns right now and i do feal a little bit of pull in the tires so i dont go very fast when making a u-turn.

When i back outa a parking spot and need to turn the wheels all the way to keep from hitting the car in front of me when im in drive, the wheels have a little tug in them but the car doesnt shake or anything it just feals a little tight.

Is this normal for a 249 ? Or is the t-case going south ? I've driven some 249's with bad cases and they shook and jumped wildly nothing like mine. Never drove a working one so i cant compare.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 12:27 PM   #142
comptiger5000
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A working 249 is a bit tight, definitely more so than a 242 or something. Depending on how tight it is, it may be starting to go.

Try adjusting your tire pressures so you have a bit more in the front than the rear. You want to get the height from the rim lip to the ground equal on all 4. Doing that will keep the VC happier, and may make it feel a bit less tight.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 03:04 PM   #143
DrHicks
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1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Omaha, NE
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Question for y'all...


I've got the 249 in my '94 Grand, behind the 5.2 engine. I'm pretty sure the VC is starting to go out (in fact, I'm positive it is), and will need to be fixed sometime in the future.

My plan is to pick up either a 231 or 242, go through it to make sure everything is up to snuff, then replace the 249 with it. I know that this is going to require a bit of creativity, swapping inputs and tails.

Here's my question: If the 249 starts acting really ugly, hopping and making turns really difficult - and does this before I get the "new" transfer case ready - could I simply remove the front drive shaft and drive it that way temporarily? I'm obviously not going to do that permanently, or even long term. But will there be a problem with doing that for awhile?


Thanks!
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Unread 10-05-2010, 04:33 PM   #144
impulsebyer
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Can someone tell or show me (with a pic) where to find the date codes on the TC's? I Would like to do this in the spring as my 249 seems good right now and i'm heading into winter soon.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 04:44 PM   #145
DrHicks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impulsebyer View Post
Can someone tell or show me (with a pic) where to find the date codes on the TC's? I Would like to do this in the spring as my 249 seems good right now and i'm heading into winter soon.
I've got a 94 GC.

On my transfer case, there is a 1-1.5" in diameter round tag on the back of the transfer case - between the fill hole and drain hole. On the lower right-hand area of that tag mine says "94 2" which, as I understand it, means the transfer case was made in February of 94.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 04:57 PM   #146
csouers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHicks View Post
could I simply remove the front drive shaft and drive it that way temporarily? I'm obviously not going to do that permanently, or even long term. But will there be a problem with doing that for awhile?
I suppose you could do that as a temp solution so it can drive, but I imagine the coupler will be locked the whole time because the front output won't be spinning by the front pinion. I will likely lock because it thinks that the front and rear axles are spinning at different speeds. Notice that in a v8, it is VERY easy to lose traction at starts. That was something that I had to adjust to when I swapped in my 242.

Now, with you zj begin how old it is, the case might be 50/50 split when it locks. For that fact, you could be okay. If you were to run a 242 in full time without the front shaft, as far as my understanding goes, you wouldn't move. But with how a 249 locks versus acting like a "differential", you should be okay.
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Unread 10-05-2010, 05:25 PM   #147
Oli
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHicks View Post
I've got a 94 GC.

On my transfer case, there is a 1-1.5" in diameter round tag on the back of the transfer case - between the fill hole and drain hole. On the lower right-hand area of that tag mine says "94 2" which, as I understand it, means the transfer case was made in February of 94.
I tought that too at first, but here is what the service manual states :

"The transfer case serial number also represents the
date of build. For example, a serial number of 10-
5-91 would represent October 5, 1991."

So as I understand it, the last digit is irrevelant, for example, my transfer case serial number is 10 25 94 1, and the production date is October 25, 1994.

Anyone can confirm this?

Oli

Last edited by Oli; 10-06-2010 at 05:57 AM..
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Unread 10-05-2010, 09:21 PM   #148
JrMechanic
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1993 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lima, Ohio
Posts: 3,368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oli View Post
Hello,

I have an other newbie question. The serial # on my transfer case is 10 25 94 1, and according to the service manual, the production date is 10/25/1994... So luckily, I have the worst case possible for a swap.

Is it correct to think than theses solutions would work in my case :

1. Get a pre 94.5 case, swap the input shaft and keep the back cover of my np249 with the new hole. (any link showing where this hole must be drilled?).

2. Get a post 94.5 and pre 96 case with an internal slip yoke and only swap input shaft.

3. Get a post 96 case with external slip yoke and also get the rear driveshaft from the donor. Swap the input shaft and change the driveshafts for donor's one (will this work?).

I really dont want to buy a new input shaft that will cost the same price as the TC, so this is not an option...

Thanks again.
Those are all viable solutions, except for #3. 93-95 V8 ZJ's with the 46RH already have the shortest rear drive shafts. You would have to have your drive shaft cut and balanced to use an external slip yoke. I wouldn't recommend this since you would be shortening an already short drive shaft, which in turn makes it difficult to get the pinion angle correct if you lift it.

Personally, I would find a post 94.5 case with an internal slip yoke. That will be the easiest swap. A pre 94.5 case will work fine if you use the 249 front half, but you may have to drill an access hole for the roll pin. I've never even bothered removing the roll pin in a 242, but I'd imagine some cases might not respond well to the prying method making it necessary to access the roll pin, so it's probably a good idea to do so.

Quote:
I have a question. I am getting ready to do this swap on my Niner. However, I am throwing in the added complication of doing the Tom Woods SYE at the same time. Now, when you buy the SYE package from Tom Woods, apparently he knows the difference in length between the ESY/ISY and the SYE setups. Thus, you tell him your existing driveshaft length and he provides a new shaft with the kit that is the proper length. Of course, this is for going from a slip-yoke 242 to a non-slip-yoke 242. No mention of a 249. When I called Tom Woods, they were unable to provide any useful insight.

So, my question is, assuming the 249 you are replacing and the 242 you are swapping in have similar outputs, is the lengths different enough to need a different driveshaft? Put another way, say I have an ESY 249 and I swap in an ESY 242 - would I need a new driveshaft? If so, how much longer/shorter would it need to be (roughly)? Tom Woods would take care of the additional driveshaft length necessitated by the SYE kit, but if I needed additional material added/removed, this would be the time to do it. TIA!
All 231, 242, and 249's have the same overall length per slip yoke configuration within + or - 1/4".

Quote:
is the transfer case in my 5.9 dying or something ? It felt fine when i test drove it but i didnt get much of a chance to test it on tight turns because of the area it was for sale in.

I have no problems driving the car changing lanes, or making those right turns on a red light, or left turns. Some at pretty good angles and it drove smoothly ( a little more rough then my mom 4.0 while in 2wd tho). I've done a few u-turns right now and i do feal a little bit of pull in the tires so i dont go very fast when making a u-turn.

When i back outa a parking spot and need to turn the wheels all the way to keep from hitting the car in front of me when im in drive, the wheels have a little tug in them but the car doesnt shake or anything it just feals a little tight.

Is this normal for a 249 ? Or is the t-case going south ? I've driven some 249's with bad cases and they shook and jumped wildly nothing like mine. Never drove a working one so i cant compare.
As comp said, 249's are a bit "tighter" than a 242 in full time. This is a result of the differences between a vicious coupler in a 249 and the planetary setup in a 242. The vicious coupler is more resistant to allowing slippage between the front and rear than the 242. This is why the 249 is a MUCH better full time case than a 242.

Quote:
Question for y'all...


I've got the 249 in my '94 Grand, behind the 5.2 engine. I'm pretty sure the VC is starting to go out (in fact, I'm positive it is), and will need to be fixed sometime in the future.

My plan is to pick up either a 231 or 242, go through it to make sure everything is up to snuff, then replace the 249 with it. I know that this is going to require a bit of creativity, swapping inputs and tails.

Here's my question: If the 249 starts acting really ugly, hopping and making turns really difficult - and does this before I get the "new" transfer case ready - could I simply remove the front drive shaft and drive it that way temporarily? I'm obviously not going to do that permanently, or even long term. But will there be a problem with doing that for awhile?


Thanks!
Yes, you can remove the front drive shaft, but beware, it will roll in park. Be sure your parking brake is in working order and that you engage it every time you park.

Quote:
I tought that too at first, but here is what the service manual states :

"The transfer case serial number also represents the
date of build. For example, a serial number of 10-
5-91 would represent October 5, 1991."

So as I understand it, the last digit is irrevenant, for example, my transfer case serial number is 10 25 94 1, and the production date is October 25, 1994.

Anyone can confirm this?

Oli
This is correct.
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Want to swap an NP242 or NP231 into your ZJ? Here's how:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/n...pdated-685644/
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Unread 10-07-2010, 06:08 PM   #149
Slowride63
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I just hauled home a 97 ZJ with a crashed 242. My local salvage yard wants $500 for a used 242 but they have a couple of 97 + XJ 231"s for less than half that. I haven't had much time to research the 242/231 swap but from what I can gather other than the linkage and mode switch the 97 XJ 231 should bolt up without swapping in the 242 input shaft, correct?
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Unread 10-07-2010, 06:12 PM   #150
JrMechanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowride63 View Post
I just hauled home a 97 ZJ with a crashed 242. My local salvage yard wants $500 for a used 242 but they have a couple of 97 + XJ 231"s for less than half that. I haven't had much time to research the 242/231 swap but from what I can gather other than the linkage and mode switch the 97 XJ 231 should bolt up without swapping in the 242 input shaft, correct?
Yep, should bolt right in as long as they both have an external rear slip yoke. You shouldn't really need the linkage either.
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