I have a 2000 jgc and it makes noise from the middle to the front of the drive train. I did the axle and hub on the passenger side and the drivers side still looks good no oil leaks or anything. I changed all the diff fluids but not the transfer case yet, jeep was closed today, but could it be the transfer case? It makes a sort of a grinding noise and clicking-clanking noise, when i let it drive without stepping on the gas it doesn't make any kind of noise at all but once I step on the gas or slow down the noise comes back. any help would be much appreciated, thanks alot.
If you have the CV style driveshaft look at the rubber boots on both ends of it axle end and TC end. When those boots have a small tear it lets all the grease come out and therefor dirt and all other germs get inside the driveshaft causing it to come dry and noisy
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I think it is the 247 transfer case. Is there anyway to check the fluids? Well I'm pretty sure I have to change the fluid anyway so that is a must. Is there anyway to check it without taking it apart? I tried to search but no luck. Would it lose power if it was the transfer case? Because it feels so strong after the diff change. I'm not sure if it is a u joint or cv joint driveshaft but you guys think that could be it? I could check that tomoro. If it is it do you think I could drive it to work tomorow and fix it mid week?
I have the 4.7 engine by the way. I also remember seeing the rear driver axle be a little bit greasy fro a leak or something. I guess Illl have to replace the too but that cant be the noise right because it doesnt sound like it comes from there. Anyway thank to everyone that replied
The 247 t-case has a viscous clutch for the all wheel drive,i have seen this cause noise issues in the t-case,if you have any acess to run the vehicle on a lift or with all 4 wheels off the ground listen around the rear of the t-case,if it is loudest in that area the clutch is probably the issue.
I just checked out my driveshaft today. they looked okay and they werent cv driveshafts i think because they didnt have the rubber boots on them is that right? there was a leak on the transfer case though. do you think that could be it? My jeep does have 107 thousand miles on it.
well I'll update you guys with what I did. The good news is that I changed the TC fluid with the TC247 fluid from the jeep dealer, wasn't too bad 29.?? for two quarts. Well after I changed it I took it for a drive, it sounded a little bit better but the noise was definitely still there. There was still some snowy/icy areas on my street so I figured I put each side of the wheels on ice and see how my new tires perform. It helped me learn that the problem was in front of my car for sure. It slips for a little bit then as it grabs it makes a really loud noise while its gripping. So is this the diff? or the transfer case? Sorry for making everything so long just trying to help you understand my problem. As always thanks alot.
Does this noise start @ around 40mph and then start getting quieter as you go faster? If so, it's most likely the transfer case. There is a chain that connects the front drive shaft to the main shaft coming out of the transmission. My Jeep had just over 100k miles when mine did this. What happens is the chain gets stretched and hangs loosely under the sprockets. When you get the truck to around 40mph, centrifugal force makes the chain disperse the slack evenly over the the entire perimeter of the chain, causing the chain to loose grip with the sprockets and jump teeth. The faster you go, the less grip it has with the top of the sprockets and the quieter the popping noise gets. Total cost to fix this is around $400 (for the 247 model) if you do the work yourself. The job is not as difficult as you might think. Here is a link to instructions on how to disassemble the transfer case: http://www.ehow.com/how_2179550_disa...sfer-case.html The trickiest part is expanding the snap ring in order to get the tail housing off. I didn't want to have to remove the transfer case from the vehicle to do the job, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers and cut the nose down as well as the handles so it would fit between the snap ring and the under-body of the vehicle. I also ground flats on the outside of the nose so it wouldn't slip off of the ring. You may be able to reuse the sprockets if you haven't been having this problem too long. The chain costs $250 at the dealer. I waited too long to fix the problem so the chain wore the sprocket teeth down. Hope this helps!
The best way to see if the chain is your problem: Secure the vehicle to keep it from rolling away, then remove both front & rear drive shafts from the differentials (leave them attached to the transfer case). Now, with the transmission in Park, rotate the rear shaft and note the amount of play. Now do the same with the front drive shaft. If the front has a considerable amount more play than the back, the chain is your problem.