so my trans lost second gear so i am installing a new trans. its almost bolted up but it doesnt seem to want to slide in the last little bit. maybe 1/2 inch or so. i left the old torque converter bolted up to the flywheel and i think i should pull the torque covertor and then install it on the trans then install the trans its self. but im not 100% sure please give me some advice. it has to be done today. i need to drive it to school tomorrow.
not a new new trans got it from a junk yard 9k miles 6 month warrenty for $320
i have the convertor that came off the "new" trans i got should i used that one instead?
and should i put the torque convertor on the trans before i install it or
should i bolt the convertor up to the back of the motor first?
i was just trying to save time by using the old convertor cause i have school tomorrow. but i found a truck i can borrow if needed so what should i do any help would be awesome thanks guys
put it on the transmission, then make sure you have 1/2" from the edge of the bell housing
(1) Check torque converter hub and hub drive
notches for sharp edges burrs, scratches, or nicks.
Polish the hub and notches with 320/400 grit paper
and crocus cloth if necessary. The hub must be
smooth to avoid damaging pump seal at installation.
(2) Lubricate converter drive hub and oil pump
seal lip with transmission fluid.
(3) Lubricate converter pilot hub with transmission
(4) Align converter and oil pump.
(5) Carefully insert converter in oil pump. Then
rotate converter back and forth until fully seated in
(6) Check converter seating with steel scale and
straightedge (Fig. 17). Surface of converter lugs
should be 1/2 in. to rear of straightedge when converter
is fully seated.
(7) Temporarily secure converter with C-clamp.
(10) Raise transmission and align converter with
drive plate and converter housing with engine block.
(11) Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower
or tilt transmission to align converter housing with
engine block dowels.
(12) Rotate converter so alignment marks scribed
on converter are aligned with mark on driveplate.
(13) Carefully work transmission forward and over
engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in
(14) Install bolts attaching converter housing to
(15) Install rear support. Then lower transmission
onto crossmember and install bolts attaching transmission
mount to crossmember.
(16) Remove engine support fixture.
(17) Install crankshaft position sensor.
(18) Install vehicle speed sensor and speedometer
(19) Install new plastic retainer grommet on any
shift linkage rod or lever that was disconnected.
Grommets should not be reused. Use pry tool to
remove rod from grommet and cut away old grommet.
Use pliers to snap new grommet into lever and
to snap rod into grommet at assembly.
(20) Connect gearshift and throttle valve cable to
(21) Connect wires to park/neutral position switch,
transmission solenoid(s) and oxygen sensor. Be sure
transmission harnesses are properly routed.
CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts
be used to attach the converter to the driveplate.
Bolts that are too long will damage the clutch surface
inside the converter.
(22) Install torque converter-to-driveplate bolts.
Tighten bolts to 31 N·m (270 in. lbs.).
(23) Install converter housing access cover.
(24) Install starter motor and cooler line bracket.
(25) Connect cooler lines to transmission.
(26) Install transmission fill tube. Install new seal
on tube before installation.
(27) Install exhaust components.
(28) Install transfer case.
(29) Align and connect propeller shaft(s).
(30) Adjust gearshift linkage and throttle valve
cable if necessary.
(31) Lower vehicle.
(32) Fill transmission with Mopar ATF Plus, Type
I would use the 9K one instead of leaving the one that failed on there. I'm not a transmission literate person but I know there are two "clicks" the convertor has to go through before fully engaged into the trans. So I would have the converter fully seated to the trans before bolting it up to the flywheel I would think.
Put the torque converter on the trans then install it. When you do, make sure it is properly seated, it should sit inboard about 1/2" and not flush with the mating surface. I had the same issue when I swapped the engine in.