trans install diy - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
hairball-ZJ
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trans install diy

So I need a transmission installed on my 96 ZJ 4.0. I bought a trans for 350. I've been quoted about 500 by a few places to my trans installed. I also have 7 of the next 14 days off, have tools and a covered work area. Is this a big enough pain in the butt that i should just throw down the 500 bucks? Or man up and do it my damn self?

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post #2 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 11:58 AM
1stblack97ZJ
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man up and do it your damn self

1997 ZJ Laredo
4" Lift
32s
Plenty of lights
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post #3 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 01:18 PM
Rich93ZJ
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What would Chuck Norris do?????
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 02:22 PM
nickhay13
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DIY brother. Chalk if off as a learning experience, maybe call up a few buddies and grab a case of beer.
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post #5 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 02:26 PM
newfieZJ
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post #6 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 02:32 PM
melk
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It goes a whole lot faster the second time!
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post #7 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 04:06 PM
BoostinChick
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Do it yourself! The money you would save invest in replacing any gaskets, seals, sensors while it's on the ground! I made that mistake with the governor pressure sensor and a few transfer case seals. What a waste of $50 in ATF.

1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9L
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post #8 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
hairball-ZJ
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Thanks, just gonna bust it out this weekend. Anyone got any tricks other then beers...?
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post #9 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 05:13 PM
sevenscrew
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the top of the t case, the nuts are hard to reach with ur hand. youll need a stubby wrench. i forgot if its 15mm or 9/16th . also need a swivel 15mm or 9/16 (forgot) for the bellhousing bolts. and 2-3feet of extension. they should break loose easy. the t case nuts not so much...

when reseating the new torque converter (dont reuuse the old one) make sure you hear three distinctive clunks to make sure its fully seated. i believe if its over a 1/2" seated from the edge of the bellhousing its fully seated.

Too turn the flex plate, i used a flat head in random spots and used leverage to spin it slowly but surely. becareful ur hand doesnt slip and hit something ... lol.

i used a floor jack(for jacking up vehicles) a with like a 5" face plate. and it worked fine, I used ratchet straps and highly recommend that.

I used a second person for removing and installing it. makes it a lot easier.

becareful with the dipstick tube, dont forget to remove it from the trans before removing the trans or u could bend it. dont forget to unplug the crankshaft position sensor on top of bellhousing. along with all other linkages/wires

the tailshaft is a lotheavier than the bellhousing. Hmm, the trans lowers quite a bit by the way, to easier access the top of it (bellhousing bolts and what not).

dont forget to remove the dust shield, i heard people forget this step. there are 4 bolts connecting the flex plate to the torque converter.

this is all i can remember off hand, if you have any questions just post. you could pm me too. I only changed my 44re once, its pretty similiar to the 42re though.

1997 Limited 5.2L Nelly - SOLD
1997 Limited 5.2L - new project
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post #10 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 05:21 PM
Uniblurb
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Well a trans jack comes in real handy for positioning/angling if you can borrow/rent one but most do it w/o this luxury. Make sure the torque converter is back in all the way and don't force it against the flex plate. And speaking of flex plates; make sure you don't have any fine cracks in it before even starting. Also make sure all the wires are out of the way on the top/back of the block so you don't pinch one between the trans bell housing and block. Good luck!
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post #11 of 19 Old 02-15-2013, 06:04 PM
melk
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Seriously triple check and make sure the converter is fully seated (sunk into the bell housing) you do not want to wrestle it up into place only to be wondering why it won't seat flush....

Pressure sensor and solenoid are well worth changing while you have the pan off.

Careful with the crank position sensor.

I drew a circle on cardboard and stuck the bolts in, handy for putting them back in the right spot.

You'll want to adjust the TV cable after all is said and done.
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post #12 of 19 Old 02-18-2013, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
hairball-ZJ
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Thanks for the advice everyone. New problem, My transmission cross member bolts are spinning in the frame and not un threading. What have you guys done for this?
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post #13 of 19 Old 02-18-2013, 07:15 AM
sevenscrew
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U can try putting a pry bar in between cross member and frame to keep constant pressure .

Cut a flap in the frame rail and put a wrench on the loose nut. Or retack weld it

1997 Limited 5.2L Nelly - SOLD
1997 Limited 5.2L - new project
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post #14 of 19 Old 02-18-2013, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
hairball-ZJ
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I'm effed. The pry bar technique didn't work, would you cut into the frame rail or go in from the top through he back seat floor?
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post #15 of 19 Old 02-18-2013, 08:49 AM
dnuccio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairball-ZJ View Post
I'm effed. The pry bar technique didn't work, would you cut into the frame rail or go in from the top through he back seat floor?
well you would have to cut a hole in the floor to go from the top...i would just cut out a small piece of frame rail then weld the nut back in place

Reliability is relative
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