Tranny finally died yesterday - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 37 Old 08-03-2017, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
Malachi73
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Tranny finally died yesterday

Well, I was pulling out of a parking lot yesterday and accelerating when I heard a loud pop and my tach pegged out. I stopped the Jeep, shifted to Neutral and back to drive, nothing at all. 1st, nothing at all, 2nd,nothing at all. All I've got left is Reverse. Thankfully I was able to back up and back into the parking lot.

A little history, I bought this Jeep back in March, seller said the trans was shot. At the time it would still move in Reverse and Drive, but only if you revved it up really high, then it would move very slow. Anyway, dropped the pan and put new filter on, adjusted the bands, and filled it back up with new fluid and been driving it ever since. Only problems I've had was a loud whine in 1st and 2nd, and also it would usually slip when shifting to 2nd.

Lately I've noticed it slipping a lot worse when going into 2nd. So, I guess it finally gave up the ghost.

I'm pretty sure she's done for this time, just wanted some input from the forum as to what y'all think finally happened.

BTW: I've got another Jeep just like it that I'm gonna pull the trans out of and do a swap. I'm thinking I'll need to get a new Torque Converter when I do so, huh?

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post #2 of 37 Old 08-03-2017, 07:47 PM
Taz360ZJ
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5 speed swap it

'94 ZJ, AX15, UC+BB, Ravine's, 31's, 3.8L fan, D2S's, fully murdered out.
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post #3 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 12:10 AM
kg6mov
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Might as well on the torque converter, the second gen uses the symmetrical bolt pattern converter.

Whine would imply mechanical issues, I'd wager if it went out with a bang theres gonna be carnage in there somewhere.

Have you dropped the pan since?

What year is the donor?


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
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post #4 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 03:52 AM Thread Starter
Malachi73
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Should have mentioned, both are '98s.

No time to drop pan yet. Hopefully that'll be Tuesday job.


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post #5 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 06:25 AM
wingless
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The external coolers and lines need to be cleaned. I used a garden hose then compressed air.


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post #6 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 07:33 AM
zjosh93
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I'll second flushing the lines. When the first trans in my 93 died there was a literal handful of aluminum confetti in the pan. No telling how much made it into the lines. I blew them out with compressed air then dumped in solvent and blew them out. Repeated that until they were clean. I think I used naphtha but any reasonably quick drying solvent should work. Probably more important to swap the converter though. The cooler lines just dump into the pan so the filter *should* catch any crud from the lines.
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post #7 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 09:22 AM
wingless
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It is impossible to flush the torque converter.

The OP plan is to drop-in a working transmission. It shouldn't be full of contamination. Reusing that torque converter from the working transmission should be fine. Swapping to a replacement is also fine.

Reusing the torque converter from the failed transmission should never be done.

My lines and coolers got very clean very quickly w/ garden hose water. I shot it through both directions, then blew them dry w/ compressed air.


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post #8 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 10:05 AM
zjosh93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingless View Post
It is impossible to flush the torque converter.
Correct.

Quote:
The OP plan is to drop-in a working transmission. It shouldn't be full of contamination. Reusing that torque converter from the working transmission should be fine. Swapping to a replacement is also fine.
Correct.

Quote:
Reusing the torque converter from the failed transmission should never be done.
Correct. That's why I said he should swap the converter... to a new one. I guess I just said to swap it, but I thought it was clear I wasn't suggesting he swap the old converter over.

Quote:
My lines and coolers got very clean very quickly w/ garden hose water. I shot it through both directions, then blew them dry w/ compressed air.
I'm glad that seems to have worked for you, but oil and water don't mix. You need something solvent. You'll end up with droplets of oil stuck to the inside of the pipes and in all the nooks and crannies. Crud from the bad trans will stick to that oil, and your water isn't going to move it. It'll get carried out by the new fluid, but like I said earlier, it just dumps into the pan so the filter should catch it.

Blowing it out with compressed air probably won't dry out all the water either, but I doubt the little that remained would hurt anything.
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post #9 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 10:11 AM
wingless
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The parts were in my hands when being flushed by water. There were no retained oil drop stuck in any nooks or crannies. The crud came out immediately. I also used Simple Green, but that had no apparent effect.

The compressed air dried effectively.

If there was any moisture remaining it turned to water vapor and exited the transmission vent.


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post #10 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
Malachi73
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I was not planning to reuse converter from failed transmission.

So, I could use converter from the donor? I assume converters do fail. Is there anyway to check the one from the donor before using it?


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post #11 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 11:06 AM
kg6mov
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Nope, you'd need to be able to put real pressure into it to test it.

It's pretty much either good or shot though.

They're not expensive, if you don't know it's good it doesn't hurt to get a new one.


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1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
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I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #12 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
Malachi73
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For those of you who have pulled a few transmissions in your life. How would rate this one? 10 being the most difficult.

Also, just out of curiosity, any idea what happened that would still leave me with reverse?


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post #13 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 02:28 PM
kg6mov
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The jeeps aren't so bad to drop IMO, lot more room to work than on some things. Maybe a 5/10, really depends on what your setup is, any trans is a pita with hand tools and a ****ty jack. A good jack and a variety of wrenches makes the difference.

My car was more of a pita than the jeep. I'm not looking forward to when I have to drop the trans in my truck, T-19's are cast iron cases.

The converter alone on the jeep is gonna be around 40 lbs with fluid.


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1984 F250, 460 BB, T19, work truck/future tow pig
1987 Mercedes 300D Turbo, the diesel daily, 30mpg in style

Quote:
Originally Posted by Texas ZJ1 View Post
I heard someone yell "mall crawler" from the back porch. I'll go see who said that. Be right back.
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post #14 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 02:57 PM
zjosh93
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I'd say 5/10 is a good guess. The shape of the pan and the build of the 42RE mean that the center of gravity is a little forward of the pan so it doesn't balance nice on a jack. At all. Of course if/when the torque converter falls of the front the balance changes to the rear so the converter falls forward and the trans backward. You can make a quick wood brace or try to strap it down with varying degrees of success. Bolt access isn't that bad. I've had mine out four times.

If you buy some extra bolts long enough to thread into the lower trans bolt holes and through the trans, cut the heads off, and slot them with a grinder or hacksaw for screwdriver slots, you'll have some handy alignment dowels that make hefting the thing up and sliding it onto the engine a lot easier.
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post #15 of 37 Old 08-04-2017, 03:22 PM
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"If you buy some extra bolts long enough to thread into the lower trans bolt holes and through the trans, cut the heads off, and slot them with a grinder or hacksaw for screwdriver slots, you'll have some handy alignment dowels that make hefting the thing up and sliding it onto the engine a lot easier."

Great advice there. I have installed several auto transmissions using this method solo without any trans jack at all.

GW

2 '98 4.0 ZJs
Hers is stock, mine, OME shocks, BB, Aussie, 2x6 sliders, 31s, etc.
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