Track Bar - 2'' BB, OEM or JKS? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 24 Old 09-13-2012, 08:44 PM
Foundrydude
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The OEM versions have a rubber bushing and frankly rubber just isn't up to the task with a lift. Any deflection in that bushing equals steering wheel play.

Either buy one with a poly bushing on the lower end, or buy a bar with a rubber bushing, burn it out, and install an aftermarket 2 piece poly bushing. Several companies make them, not hard to find at all.

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post #17 of 24 Old 09-13-2012, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
ZJMTL
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So a stock bar with a poly bushing?

I know energy suspension makes some and they're carried locally. That could work.
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post #18 of 24 Old 09-13-2012, 09:04 PM
Foundrydude
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If you go to your local parts store, most replacement bushings are 2 piece poly and they're under $20.

I'm doing a 96 ram track bar bushing this weekend and guess who made it? AC Delco!

Also, some premium-line stock replacement bars come with a poly bushing so read up on what you're buying.
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post #19 of 24 Old 09-13-2012, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
ZJMTL
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Awesome. Thanks a lot man!

EDIT:

With all this being said, how the hell can a trackbar be bad anyway? The guys at the garage told me it was bad last time, but, I'm guessing it's just the bushing? I haven't really even looked at it, but I'm thinking I just need a bushing, not a bar. I guess a dry steering test could determine if the mounting point or the bushing is the problem?
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post #20 of 24 Old 09-13-2012, 09:32 PM
Dyn0mitemat
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Your front axle is going to be off no mater what amount of lift you put on , whether or not the amount it's off at 2" on yours is acceptable or not is upto you.

2.5" and stock track bars with 31's and I was eating tires on front & rear because they were so far off and hitting fenders (yes I could've trimmed, but that wasn't my problem, axle were not centered)

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
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post #21 of 24 Old 09-13-2012, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
ZJMTL
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My tires are fairly centered and almost not off at all, to be honest. Nothing's rubbing in the least as far as I can tell.
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post #22 of 24 Old 09-14-2012, 12:12 AM
woodsd79
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Just buy a stock one if you are hurting for money. If it ends up not working lengthen it for very cheap. I've never seen anyone talk about it on here but it is simple to lengthen a track bar. Cut the bar and slide both ends in to a sleeve. Weld the ends and put a couple of plug welds a few inches from each end for insurance. I did mine on my F-350 as a temporary fix when I lifted it 6.5" and now 5 years later its still there. Im running 37" tires and have never had a problem. You don't really need a big beefy track bar when everything else is stock. Poly bushings are better though.
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post #23 of 24 Old 09-14-2012, 06:16 PM
Foundrydude
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A trackbar fails two ways. (other than being bent)

Way 1, bushing wears out.

Way 2, the other end is a ball & socket joint like a tie rod. When the joint gets loose, time for new.

Typically the bushing goes first. I would know where to get a new complete bar, then take yours off for bushing replacement. If the threaded end feels tight, you save $100 and just replace the bushing.
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post #24 of 24 Old 09-14-2012, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
ZJMTL
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Awesome guys. Looks like I'm going to need new tie rod ends as well...

I appreciate all the help! Going to get under there this weekend!
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