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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Tom woods front drive shaft
Will be installing tom woods front drive shaft tuesday just looking for some advise and and any little tricks that will make it easier thanks
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2000wj iro 4in cpla with 2in b.b. on top rusty's airtube kn airfilter,rusty's 2.5in catback exhaust,flowmaster 40,spidertrax wheel spacers.265/75/16 iro rear a arm spacer,iro transfercase spacer,iro daul steering stabilizer,still in the growing stage |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Use more than one big hefty jackstand to hold up the Jeep; chock the wheels AND set the e-brake.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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start to lube all the nuts now so when you are about to unscrew them they are softer
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'99 WJ I6 w/ 180k (and Purrs like a kitten) Claytons LA > 6.5" > Rear TW SYE & DS > Front Caroline DS > Bilsten 5100 > 265/70/16 Cooper S/T Getting Prepped for Next Spring: '76 F-150 Dana 44HP and Ford 9" Full Width |
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#4 |
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Mr. Hyde!
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You're just changing a driveshaft. A few 8mm or 10mm bolts depending on what you have and that is it. No need to jack up the Jeep or lube the nuts/bolts. They should break free very easily.
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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thanks for the info it only took about 1/2 hr to remove the shaft now just waiting for the tom woods to come
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2000wj iro 4in cpla with 2in b.b. on top rusty's airtube kn airfilter,rusty's 2.5in catback exhaust,flowmaster 40,spidertrax wheel spacers.265/75/16 iro rear a arm spacer,iro transfercase spacer,iro daul steering stabilizer,still in the growing stage |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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if you're replacing the yokes as well from CV to u joint yokes i would read up before doing so...from what you wrote already seems like ur just upgrading ur existing u joint one..
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99WJ 4.0 IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers |
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#7 |
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Web Wheeler
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If you're replacing the yokes, you're going to want a big 1/2" drive impact, and a big gear puller.
Also, according to my local driveshaft guy, the "proper" way to do it is to take the diff apart completely and measure the preload or some such thing in order to get it right. Or just wail on it and hope for the best. ![]() I tried doing the driveshaft swap myself, but had to drive down to his shop to get the yokes swapped out. I just didn't have the tools to get the job done at my place. 1/2 hour and a 12-pack of Heineken later, it was done. |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
THANK YOU! YOUR DRIVESHAFT GUY IS RIGHT! I don't know how many times I've gotten into an arguement on here about this!
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04 WJ 4.0 - Stock 96 XJ 4.0 - RE 7.5" LA, Locked HP44/9", 36 TSL's soon |
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#9 |
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Web Wheeler
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What, people disagree that it's important to properly crush the sleeve? lol
no, to do it right, the pinion needs to be set without the ring gear so you know when it's just so (or so I was told). Having said that, I did not tear my diff apart and do it correctly. I had my diff guy do it as best he could. I figure I'm ok for the next couple of years anyway, and I'm hoping to go D44 with 4.56s sometime in 09 anyway! |
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#10 |
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Web Wheeler
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according to the Official Jeep FSM for the WJ, whenever removing the pinion nut... you put the axles on stands, take off the wheels, rotate the pinion 10 times, then use a torque meter to check how much torque it requires to rotate the pinion. remove the nut and do your business. then when you put the nut back on, you slowly torque it a little at a time and keep re-checking with a torque meter untill it requires the same force to rotate as it did originally. if you over-torque and now it requires more than originally, you fail and must start over and replace the crush sleeve.
Last edited by theksmith; 12-26-2008 at 10:24 PM.. |
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