TNT Dana 44a Truss install Question... - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
evan1395
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TNT Dana 44a Truss install Question...

So before I get my locker and whatnot for the rear, i'd really like to truss that rear end. I ran across this truss, seems like a good price and great quality.
In the install instructions it mentions you having to drop the entire axle assembly from the vehicle. While using this truss, do I need to buy the bracket kit? Or can I utilize the stock control arm brackets. Can I simply just buy the truss by itself and have it go get welded on?

http://www.tntcustoms.com/rear_axle_.../Dana_44a.aspx


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post #2 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 02:36 PM
Technohead
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Call them. It appears the truss itself is useless without the optional bracket kit.

-Eric

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post #3 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 02:43 PM
96zj4me
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44a? Not much aftermarket support 9inch d60 d44 8.8 let the arguments begin
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post #4 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 03:43 PM
riot1987
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I looked at another truss from them as well. It seems they have great prices on their trusses. ...Until you add on all the necessary brackets and mounts. Then it really seems to add up quick. I too, would call or email them to see for sure


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Build thread^^
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post #5 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 04:11 PM
Technohead
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BTW, why do you want to truss the rear end? Seems like a waste of money to me.

Lock it. Wheel it. Have fun.

-Eric

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post #6 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
evan1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
BTW, why do you want to truss the rear end? Seems like a waste of money to me.

Lock it. Wheel it. Have fun.
I heard the 44a was notorious for warping if you lock it up and throw bigger meats on it. Its an aluminum housing, right? :P

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post #7 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 04:32 PM
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A rear diff skid would be a good idea.
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post #8 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
evan1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
A rear diff skid would be a good idea.
I read about a skid/truss combo made by a "High Mountain" company or something? It was a bottom mount truss as opposed to the traditional top mount.

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post #9 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 05:41 PM
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post #10 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
evan1395
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Thats the one!!!

Thanks buddy!

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post #11 of 39 Old 03-03-2014, 07:08 PM
ejschultz
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I'm skidded, I just need a truss then I think I'll have a pretty rock solid axle. Although I doubt 31s are going to warp my locked 44A.



01 TJ - 4.0L, NV3550, 2" Skyjacker budget boost, Xenon flat flares, LoD front bumper, Tuff Stuff rear bumper, RH4X4 sliders, 33" STT Pros on 15x8s
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post #12 of 39 Old 03-04-2014, 09:21 AM
speedbucket
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if your welding on a truss its much better to have the axle out from under the vehicle to weld anything on it. its alot easier to get it square and aligned properly. that being said, if your are welding on an axle its a very good idea to remove all the bearings easy to get to, pull the shafts and carrier and keep the ground cable as close as possible to where you are welding. if a charge looking for ground goes across a bearing it will leave a bur. An engineering friend was part of a project in college where a guy decided he was going to weld some stuff on their 120 mph go kart. he had the ground on the frame and was welding on the axle. he seized all the drive bearings and 1200$ worth of heim joints from the arc jumping through the heim liners.


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V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #13 of 39 Old 03-04-2014, 09:32 AM
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You can also warp the axle if it heats up too much. The shop back in Vegas I used said they got that a lot from customers bringing it in to have it fixed.
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post #14 of 39 Old 03-04-2014, 09:55 AM
Technohead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evan1395 View Post
I read about a skid/truss combo made by a "High Mountain" company or something? It was a bottom mount truss as opposed to the traditional top mount.
Its fine unless you are jumping . . . in which case you need a lot more than a truss.

A truss does not get you further down the trail. A locker does.

-Eric

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post #15 of 39 Old 03-04-2014, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolkaPower View Post
You can also warp the axle if it heats up too much. The shop back in Vegas I used said they got that a lot from customers bringing it in to have it fixed.
yup, weld in short sections and jump around. my buddy made this axle for his super secret project and used a really expensive alignment rod and turned down pucks to keep from warping.Eaton Ho72 center with kinpin outers...

linky - http://www.dso4x4.com/forums/showthr...707#post200707


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V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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