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Unread 11-13-2013, 01:41 PM   #16
crazymjb
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Some more research suggest the coil springs may be for keeping the lines from kinking if they are hand bent at the factory.

I'm looking forward to getting the flare kit. I've used the old style kits before and they are a nightmare, especially on the car, in my opinion. The kit I ordered should allow you to go much quicker in much tighter confines, and should do a better job holding the lines.

Here's a video of how it works:

Looks 100X easier than the old kits I've used.

Mike

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Unread 11-13-2013, 03:28 PM   #17
Uniblurb
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Wow, thanks for the video Mike, and looks one heck of a lot easier!
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-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 03:49 PM   #18
crazymjb
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50 bucks for the metric and SAE set, with a pipe cutter and reamer, in a hard plastic case.

I'll probably use it every 5-10 years, haha.

Mike
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Unread 11-13-2013, 11:34 PM   #19
Uniblurb
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LOL, on using it every 5-10 years but if you ever break a line or have one leak at least you have it for the repair. I only bought the set I did for the double-flare adapters since had one of those old-style types already. It's ok for soft copper plumbing/fuel oil lines around the house but I'll keep your set in mind for doing brake lines since a whole lot easier.

I have one of those brass compression-type type fittings on one of the brake lines on one my Jeeps and those inverted flare unions are the correct route to go. Luckily there's no safety inspections here since guess they'll ding/fail you for even one brass compression-type brake line fitting.
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96 4.0 ZJ Laredo, 2004 4.7L WJ Limited, 93 4.0 XJ (spare), 96 4.0 XJ (son's)

-Stalling ZJ? 12 things to check before replacing a sensor; the Dirty Dozen
-Crankshaft position sensor multimeter test. & video of testing.
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Unread 11-15-2013, 02:15 PM   #20
roadcruzer
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Brake Line Replacement

Just replaced my main line from the ABS box to the rear axle. Used 2-5 ft pieces ( I think) with coupler and an adapter at the ABS box to go from the Bubble flare to the double flare found on standard lines. Piece of cake. I did not however follow the same exact route as the original. Good luck doing that. Much easier going between motor and steering bar. Covered all with the corrugated black plastic tubing for looks and to act as a rock guard underneath. May want to measure your own line though. Mine ended up a lot shorter due to less bend in following the original. Took about 1/2 hr.
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Unread 11-24-2013, 04:19 PM   #21
crazymjb
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I ended up having to buy another hose from the chassis to the rear axle, but it only ran me 28 bucks. I more or less followed the original routing, and used a piece of reinforced hosing as it goes alongside the engine. I didn't bother trying to get it in those clips under the steering column. I still have to do the passenger side line, I am thinking of splicing it right before it goes behind the ECU, as most of the line is perfect, and I have no interest in trying to run a line along that firewall.

I used 3/16 vinyl tubing from home depot as extra coverage on the rear axle to prevent chafing of the line. I had no issues with the ABS for anyone wondering. It took about 2 4-5 hour days, it probably would have gone faster if it was 25 degrees outside requiring hand-warm breaks.

That flaring tool I bought is AWESOME. The nickle copper line is also 100X easier to work with than steel, and flare, which is a plus.

Along the way I found my "gross emissions leak," The metal line that ran parallel to the rear brake line was literally rotted into 3 pieces, so I replaced it with some clear tubing.


Mike
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