I bought all my brake lines, tools, fitting, etc., from Amazon for my 96 ZJ and son's 96 XJ. I didn't have any problems using the below "OTC Stinger 4503 Double Flaring Tool Kit" w/case which is only $23. Takes a little torque/muscle but made nice leak-free double flares.
I used the 3/16"x 25' roll of poly/amor coated steel line and while a little hard to bend was able to do it w/o any tube bender. And was able to get them about the same shape as OE w/o any crimps.
Also bought a bag of inverted flare nuts which were only $5 for 20 and worked well. Save the metric ones and use over which fit the master cylinder since they tend not to rust.
Also bought a bag of inverted flare unions
(10pcs) for $5 and only used 1 since only did one splice.
About the best investment I made, and should have bought one years ago, was the below "Motive Power Bleeder - 0103, Chrysler", and my wife loves it! LOL!
I also heard of someone installing an air valve in an extra MC cap and then using air pressure to do a one-person bleed. But it sure as heck doesn't work as well at the Motive bleeder where you just add the brake fluid and then add some more pressure to it by pumping it a little more.
Yeah, start hosing down all your brake line fittings now. I used to use PB but now use the acetone/atf mix which seems to work better. Make sure you hold the brass brake block on the axle which has the vent going through it tight with a wrench or vice grips when removing the fittings since you sure don't want to crack/break it. I also used a small wire brush on the fitting just to be able to get the rust cutter down in the brass threads. Doesn't matter if you twist all the lines/fittings off since you're installing new but don't want to damage this part.