Thermostat Location - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 01-15-2011, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
TewSmooth18
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Thermostat Location

Can somebody tell me where the thermostat location is on a 97 grand cherokee with a V8 5.2l? I've tried google searching it and the pictures that I have been able to pull up are showing the location but when I look at my engine i'm not seeing what is being showed in the pictures. (Pictures are showing it being at the front of the engine under the pulleys). What i'm seeing is a water outlet coming from the top of the engine (with radiator hose going to top right side of radiator if looking from the front of the jeep to the back of the jeep) but i'm not sure if that is actually where it's located or not.

A picture would be helpful as well.

Thanks in advance

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post #2 of 16 Old 01-15-2011, 04:59 PM
BongCAT
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Sorry no pics...wish I had seen this earlier today...just got finished dropping in a new rad.

The thermostat is located in the engine beneath the top radiator hose flange. Two bolts and there it is.
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post #3 of 16 Old 01-15-2011, 09:41 PM
bigbossd1030
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Just follow your top radiator hose to your engine.
The part that the hose clamps to is the thermostat housing, under this is where your thermostat is.
Just remove your hose (there will be some coolant that will leak out of this hose when disconnected) and you will see the thermostat in the housing, then remove the two bolts and pull the housing off. Take note as to how the gasket sits, I cant remember is it goes Engine, gasket, thermostat, housing or... engine, thermostat, gasket, housing. It makes a difference, I did mine backwards and it leaked. Oh and RTV sealant is your friend. Make sure you give it the full 24 hours to dry. Oh and people will say not to tighten it too much, thats what the gasket is for.... WRONG! Tighten it as much as you can, I did mine not too tight and it leaked, I had to tighten it till the bolts wouldn't turn anymore.

Well, good luck

Oh and if you havent already, you may need to change the clamps with some new ones, More adjustable ones, Mine didnt seal the hose on the housing tight enough, so I had to replace with some new ones.

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post #4 of 16 Old 01-16-2011, 12:29 AM
tonymartin
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yep, as bigboss said, the order is engine, t-stat, gasket, housing. Use a touch of RTV on the lower rim of the t-stat to get a proper seal, but not too much as you may clog the t-stat. Then just bolt it back up. It does help to remove the alternator too as this gets in the way BIG time.

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post #5 of 16 Old 01-16-2011, 10:32 AM
tcar
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You NEED, NEED to go to your auto parts store and pick up a Haynes Manual. Pictues and everything.
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post #6 of 16 Old 01-16-2011, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
TewSmooth18
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I've got a Chiltons but obviously the thing sucks because the pictures that are showing in it are of the other style where the thermostat housing is bolted to the front of the engine and not the top of the engine like mine. I've looked and it looks like it might be a pain in the *** to change it without removing the altenator but i'm not going to remove it, i'll just work with it

Quote:
Originally Posted by tcar View Post
You NEED, NEED to go to your auto parts store and pick up a Haynes Manual. Pictues and everything.
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post #7 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030 View Post
Oh and people will say not to tighten it too much, thats what the gasket is for.... WRONG! Tighten it as much as you can,
Just use some antiseize, or else you'll end up like me:

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post #8 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
TewSmooth18
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I got it changed, and you were right. i did have to remove the altenator. damn near impossible to do it without removing it. Thanks for the help!
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post #9 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030 View Post
Oh and RTV sealant is your friend. Make sure you give it the full 24 hours to dry. Oh and people will say not to tighten it too much, thats what the gasket is for.... WRONG! Tighten it as much as you can, I did mine not too tight and it leaked, I had to tighten it till the bolts wouldn't turn anymore.
Thats poor advice, no offense. But tighten to spec and it works fine. Tighten too much, crack the manifold, purchase new manifold.

Torque specs for t-stat housing is 200 in-lbs for the 5.2 engine.

Yard

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post #10 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 08:14 PM
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Agree on the above point, if you can't get it to seal by making them a bit past snug, then you didn't clean off all the old sealant, or the thermo housing may be corroded to the point that it does not seal. DO NOT overtighten those small bolts or you will be sorry. I just did a water pump on my old ZJ and I had no problem getting out the old bolts. Then I cleaned ALL the old sealer off and used Permatex gasket sealer (I have the marine version of this and it works great) on the gasket and the bolts, that keeps the bolts from seizing in place, the sealer seals out corrosion. It does not harden up either, I use the OMC (Evinrude/Johnson) marine version of the Permatex gasket sealer in salt water applications and it works great, the bolts come right out.
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post #11 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 08:42 PM
tonymartin
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Glad you got it done OP. Welcome to the world of wrenching!

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post #12 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 09:56 PM
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yardman Harry View Post
Thats poor advice, no offense. But tighten to spec and it works fine. Tighten too much, crack the manifold, purchase new manifold.

Torque specs for t-stat housing is 200 in-lbs for the 5.2 engine.

Yard
I dont have a torque wrench so I have to use my guess wrench, and when I tightend it up to just past snug, it leaked 3 times, once I tightend it as much as I could, stopped the leak and no problems. If you can crack your manifold, then you should have looked at the treads or made sure you didnt cross thread it, plus just using a socket wrench, without a stirker bar, it may be hard to crack the manifold. anyway, I only gave advice from what I did and from what worked.

/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
()_)-()_)--o)_)

OFFICIAL JEEPER
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I am on channel 33.

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post #13 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 10:01 PM
ratmonkey
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200"lbs is about 15ftlbs, about 1/2-2/3 turn past snug.

Get a torque wrench and stop giving damaging advice.

Your intake is aluminum, over torquing will crack it.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #14 of 16 Old 01-17-2011, 10:05 PM
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
200"lbs is about 15ftlbs, about 1/2-2/3 turn past snug.

Get a torque wrench and stop giving damaging advice.

Your intake is aluminum, over torquing will crack it.
Well I have never had to won one, beacues I am not a complete dumba$$ and cracking all the stuff on my jeep. So I will continue to use my good ol guesswrench that has never failed me once.

/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
()_)-()_)--o)_)

OFFICIAL JEEPER
Any Jeepers in Edmonton, AB
I am on channel 33.

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post #15 of 16 Old 01-18-2011, 11:30 AM
tcar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030 View Post
Well I have never had to won one, beacues I am not a complete dumba$$ and cracking all the stuff on my jeep. So I will continue to use my good ol guesswrench that has never failed me once.
Never WON what????

It's actually about 17 ft-lbs.

Good luck on guessing. And winning.
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