suspension too soft? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-24-2013, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
spidermonkey
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: Two Harbors MN
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suspension too soft?

I have a new problem I want your input on. My ZJ works very well on and off the trail and rides amazing. The problem arose right after installing the long arms and new front RE coils up front. On the trail, when off camber, it unloads big time. It feels like it's going to roll over at points where even taller Jeeps don't. Add in the fact that the engine torque pulls the Jeep to the side most of the trails lean, and it makes it very spooky. This is at a tiny lift of about 3-3.5" I have wheeled Jeeps for 9 years and this has not been an issue before.

I thought of a couple possible solutions:
-install Addco rear sway bar
-install a Swaylock or similar front sway bar (CSL sells them for a ZJ)

any advice is appreciated


98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/spidermonkey-s-98-zj-build-716209/
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-24-2013, 07:52 PM
jabba974
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Out of curiosity, did your kit come with any drop brackets for the track bar(s)? what about different sway bar links?
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-25-2013, 07:01 AM
Timo_90xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidermonkey View Post
The problem arose right after installing the long arms and new front RE coils up front. On the trail, when off camber, it unloads big time. It feels like it's going to roll over at points where even taller Jeeps don't.
Radius arm style long arms paired with softish coils can do this without some kind of body sway control. Considering the rear is coil-sprung too and the rear swaybar isn't exactly too thick (if you even have it anymore), it will lean to the side fairly easily. I'm suspecting you're running radius arm style long arms instead of true 3-link? The bad habit on radius arms is it's lack of sway and brake dive/ front unload control. As you mentioned, an adjustable sway bar like swaylock or Currie anti-rock might be a good idea for you.

When I swapped from short arms to radius arm style long arms on my XJ keeping the lift height the same, the difference in body sway wasn't that big, but on the XJs the rear leafs help on preventing body sway a bit better than coil springs + stock 4-link rear. There was a clear difference in brake dive/ front unloading on steep inclines though, and there's really not much you can do to it with radius arms (stiffer shocks help a bit, but it is not the solution either).

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-25-2013, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
spidermonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabba974 View Post
Out of curiosity, did your kit come with any drop brackets for the track bar(s)? what about different sway bar links?
I cut no corners, I have adjustable track bars with a double sheer in front, stock rear sway bar with longer links. I run the IRO critical path long arm kit, (current version).

98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-25-2013, 04:17 PM
WhiteOut
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If you're coming from stock or short arms, I think a lot of this is in your head. I know that when I first switched, every off camber situation made it feel like I was going to tip.
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-25-2013, 09:48 PM
Timo_90xj
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^- also true.

1998 Grand Cherokee 5.9 LX daily driver, 1.75" BB, 32" KM2s, HPD30 Eaton e-locker/D44a stock LSD, 4.56 gears, custom- fabbed tube bumpers and tube fenders,...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/d...s-etc-1222317/


1990 XJ Limited (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, ***rolled and totalled @ 165k miles***

***Under construction***
1990 XJ (4-door), 4.0 I6, AW4, NP242, PBR 42" tires, Unimog 404 portal axles, 110" WB, full cage + uniframe completely rebuilt, front 3-link + panhard / double triangulated 4-link rear,... ***SOLD***
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-26-2013, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
spidermonkey
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Location: Two Harbors MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteOut View Post
If you're coming from stock or short arms, I think a lot of this is in your head. I know that when I first switched, every off camber situation made it feel like I was going to tip.
Agreed, the actual flopping is less likely than it feels. I watched as my brother drove it on the trail and she does get light though.

98ZJ, 4.0,242, 8.8 Detroit, hp30, 3.5" lift, IRO LA's 4.56's, 33" Firestone MT's, custom rear bumper, ARB front, Engo E9000, factory skids

My driveway build here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=716209
speedo reading x spd gear tooth count/gps speed = new spd gear for dead on accuracy
North Shore Wheelers www.nsw4x4.com
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