Steering Ball Stud replacement. '96 GC - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > ZJ Grand Cherokee Forum > Steering Ball Stud replacement. '96 GC

New DEAL OF THE WEEK at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!FS: Wrangler RGB Multicolor Fog Light LEDs: Awesome EffectFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

Reply
Unread 03-02-2009, 01:00 PM   #1
jimjam515
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 31
Steering Ball Stud replacement. '96 GC

I need to replace my steering ball studs and am a competent DIYer with access to a good level of tools but not the Jeep special tool. Any one out there done this job without the Jeep tools, if so any tips as I don't want to book it in at the dealer.

Thanks, Mark.

jimjam515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-02-2009, 03:07 PM   #2
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: , Alberta
Posts: 6,406
It`s not hard with basic tools , what you will need without question is a proper ball joint tool . These should be rentable from your local parts store in alot of cases .

Loosen the wheel bolts
jack up at the axle , remove wheel
remove cotter pin and lock from the axle shaft
remove 1 5/16 or 36 mm nut off the axle(you may need someone on the brakes to hold it , a very good chance)
Remove pressure from brakes by squeezing the caliper(this makes removal and installation a breeze .
remove 2 bolts holding the caliper , they are 1/2"
Using tie straps , hang them so they are supported , don`t just dangle them from the lines
remove rotor
Remove cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end , using a hamme , tap the knuckle by the TRE until it drops , ususally 4-5 good taps will do . 3/4" nut on the TRE
remove the three bolts on the rear of the knuckle that hold the wheel brg 13mm 12 point socket or wrench
using a flat head screwdriver , start tapping it next to the top ear of the brg flange using the screwdriver as a wedge . Once separated slightly , repeat this at all 3 ears until you work it out . If you are replacing the brg , a BFH works great and will destroy the bearing .
pull side axle out (for just CV /axle replacement stop here and reverse order for install)

remove both cotter pins from the ball studs , then the nuts (sizes will probably vary from new to old , new should be bigger , make sure you have the sizes ).
with a hammer , tap the three side where the stud goes through the spindle on each joint , don`t be shy . Then , on the top of the knuckle , start pounding , 4-5 good smacks with a 2 pd hammer should do it , if not , just keep hitting , it will come off , if not upgrade hammer to bigger size .
Using the ball joint tool , set it up for the upper joint first , it gets pulled upwards , if you search google , or have an FSM , there are diagrams for this set-up
the lower ball joint tyou can hammer down and out , becareful of the edges so you don`t expand them and score the holes , these are press in fits . Or , don`t throw caution in the wind and set up the ball joint tool again .

Install is reverse order and use of the ball joint tool a must for both joint on install . Do not install the upper joint first as the c-clamp must use the hole for the lower joint install
Also , wrap some cardboard around the clamp threads that go through the hole for the upper joint , again , it stops any scoring should you come off center . Keep an eye in the ball joint tool , if it pulls sideways , back it off and start again .
The knucke has a slight offset , hopefully your ball joint tool kit has the offset "pipe" , if not , it will still work , just keep an eye on pulling and pressing the joints straight . I would allow a full day and hope it can be done in 4-5 hours your first time . I wish I had pics for you but broke the camera , I just finished this job on Saturday past .

There aren`t any good write-ups or step by steps out there , I did look too . Good luck with the job , there`s alot to take apart . If you need some pics and specs , I can give you what I have , PM your email my way

Last edited by newfieZJ; 03-04-2009 at 06:32 AM..
newfieZJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-03-2009, 12:41 PM   #3
jimjam515
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 31
Thanks for that newfie, I've had the drive shaft out before for a new gaiter, so removing the knuckle is just a follow on, the problem will be the joint remover, automotive tool hire isn't at all good here in the UK, if needs be, I'll buy a tool on "the bay" and have it shipped over. Thanks again, Mark.
jimjam515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-03-2009, 02:04 PM   #4
walter_da_jpr
4.0 Piston Skirt Victim
 
walter_da_jpr's Avatar
1999 WJ 
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,304
This should help with the visuals:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ball...alljoint-1.htm
__________________
WALTER
walter_da_jpr is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-03-2009, 02:16 PM   #5
newfieZJ
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: , Alberta
Posts: 6,406
No problem Mark , my instruction forgot to mention removing the TRE , whoops
newfieZJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-15-2009, 11:48 AM   #6
jimjam515
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 31
Thanks for all the replies, I found a ball joint press on ebay for good money and agree the jobs not possible without one. 3 hrs I reckon and the job was done, the only problem was the ABS cable mount was rusted to pieces so I had to fabricate a new one. All told, even with buying the press, I'm better off than if I went to the dealer and still have the tool for the other side later in the year no doubt.

Regards, Mark
jimjam515 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-22-2009, 10:11 AM   #7
besthaticouldo
Registered User
1994 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Laguna Niguel, CA
Posts: 584
sorry for bringing up a month old thread

however...

i have questions about ball joints and i didn't wanna make my own thread

should i get the spicer professional grade over the spicer service grade? is it worth the extra money?
__________________
3.5 BDS, Rancho 9000xl shocks, 31x10.5x15 BFG A/Ts, KOR lower rad support, JKS quicker discos, Hella 500s, 3" magnaflow exhaust, KOR-alike Roof Rack, IRO tie rod...bunch of other stupid crap.

Greatest Thing You've Ever Seen
besthaticouldo is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-23-2009, 01:08 AM   #8
UnderTheWooDd
Registered User
1995 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Capistrano Beach, CA
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by newfieZJ View Post
It`s not hard with basic tools , what you will need without question is a proper ball joint tool . These should be rentable from your local parts store in alot of cases .

Loosen the wheel bolts
jack up at the axle , remove wheel
remove cotter pin and lock from the axle shaft
remove 1 5/16 or 36 mm nut off the axle(you may need someone on the brakes to hold it , a very good chance)
Remove pressure from brakes by squeezing the caliper(this makes removal and installation a breeze .
remove 2 bolts holding the caliper , they are 1/2"
Using tie straps , hang them so they are supported , don`t just dangle them from the lines
remove rotor
Remove cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end , using a hamme , tap the knuckle by the TRE until it drops , ususally 4-5 good taps will do . 3/4" nut on the TRE
remove the three bolts on the rear of the knuckle that hold the wheel brg 13mm 12 point socket or wrench
using a flat head screwdriver , start tapping it next to the top ear of the brg flange using the screwdriver as a wedge . Once separated slightly , repeat this at all 3 ears until you work it out . If you are replacing the brg , a BFH works great and will destroy the bearing .
pull side axle out (for just CV /axle replacement stop here and reverse order for install)

remove both cotter pins from the ball studs , then the nuts (sizes will probably vary from new to old , new should be bigger , make sure you have the sizes ).
with a hammer , tap the three side where the stud goes through the spindle on each joint , don`t be shy . Then , on the top of the knuckle , start pounding , 4-5 good smacks with a 2 pd hammer should do it , if not , just keep hitting , it will come off , if not upgrade hammer to bigger size .
Using the ball joint tool , set it up for the upper joint first , it gets pulled upwards , if you search google , or have an FSM , there are diagrams for this set-up
the lower ball joint tyou can hammer down and out , becareful of the edges so you don`t expand them and score the holes , these are press in fits . Or , don`t throw caution in the wind and set up the ball joint tool again .

Install is reverse order and use of the ball joint tool a must for both joint on install . Do not install the upper joint first as the c-clamp must use the hole for the lower joint install
Also , wrap some cardboard around the clamp threads that go through the hole for the upper joint , again , it stops any scoring should you come off center . Keep an eye in the ball joint tool , if it pulls sideways , back it off and start again .
The knucke has a slight offset , hopefully your ball joint tool kit has the offset "pipe" , if not , it will still work , just keep an eye on pulling and pressing the joints straight . I would allow a full day and hope it can be done in 4-5 hours your first time . I wish I had pics for you but broke the camera , I just finished this job on Saturday past .

There aren`t any good write-ups or step by steps out there , I did look too . Good luck with the job , there`s alot to take apart . If you need some pics and specs , I can give you what I have , PM your email my way

well i just did it about two weeks ago (plus all 4 TRE's and 4 rancho shocks) somewhat according to these instructions and it worked out alright... thanks for the post.

the hub-bearing assemblies (noted above as BRG) are quite a ***** to get off and i ended up slide hammering one of them apart (the mechanic at my work where i did all of this helped me get it back together, it was sure as hell the first HBA i've ever seen that comes apart but he assures me it's fine). i eventually got it off with a cold chisel and hammer, although i thoroughly destroyed my backing plate, which is no longer there on one side (the hell with it). the whole job with tre's and shocks and track bar took me 2 days with frequent breaks, and waiting for parts. I would recommend always doing what i do and have a mechanic check your work...
UnderTheWooDd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.