The Steaks ZJ Build&Repair thread - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 71 Old 08-30-2013, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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I have been looking at my parents WJ doe the last week, and seeing the check engine light on. I finally asked to check it with the reader at O'Reillys and my mom said to NOT CHECK IT,nor worry about it. Really...WTH! She Doesn't want to get anything fixed cause she's on a trip. Besides the fact that I have the ability to fix what I suspect is the OČ sensor that's giving the code.
I did ask how long it's been on, and mom said since they bought the Jeep. As also, the service vehicle announcement comes on each time it's started. I asked about it, and mom said it's time for the oil change. I can tell the transmission is slipping and the bands need adjusting. Do I mention this issue as well to them?

Any recommendations besides call dad and tell him the issues and have him reimburse me for parts...


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post #32 of 71 Old 08-31-2013, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagsc7 View Post
I have been looking at my parents WJ...
They left this morning. Sorry for the rant.

Well, they did have me do the headlight restore on their jeep. Looks a lot better, but nothing is really fixed. I'll be sending dad an email with everything that's wrong that WILL need fixing in the next few months. Oh, and theirs has just over 165000 miles on it.

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post #33 of 71 Old 09-10-2013, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Back to work on MY ZJ. Got all the parts needed for Oil Pump, rear seal, and oil pan seal replacement... Started the process this evening(Just Before sunset) and have a question... I haven't gotten the pan out yet, BUT when removing one of the pan bolts, 1 bolt didn't come out as 'clean' as the rest. Here is the pic:


Is this ok? Clean up and go?!?

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post #34 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 03:48 AM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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Well, I'm DONE for the night(about an hour ago). I have all the parts ready to go in, and FINALLY got the axle to drop enough that I could get the Oil Pan out(BARELY) I took out the Oil Pump, and then looked to start the rear main seal. KRACK! I don't have the right size wrench(13/16 ") to re-torque to spec. DRAT! Guess that's the store trip tomorrow. ALSO, I went to put the Pump and pickup screen together(came in the same box), and the screen won't fit into the pump. the pipe is just a HAIR too large. According to the caliper .608 hole will not fit a .622 pipe into it. Seriously, .014 of a difference. Should I just sand it down to fit or take it back and Possibly wait for another one to come in. I have to go to the store for a socket anyways. Thoughts?

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post #35 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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Weren't top O'Reillys today and ordered another pump and pickup... after I get off work,I might just sand it down. The guy at the store said that I could sand it down and return if it didn't work. Besides clean it well after sanding, and use 150 grit paper...any other pointers?

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post #36 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 05:43 PM
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Looks like thread sealant,clean and go
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post #37 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dusterdude View Post
Looks like thread sealant,clean and go
Thanks a lot. That's what I was hoping for! So glad that I'm not replacing and drilling a stripped bolt.

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post #38 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eagsc7 View Post
ALSO, I went to put the Pump and pickup screen together(came in the same box), and the screen won't fit into the pump. the pipe is just a HAIR too large. According to the caliper .608 hole will not fit a .622 pipe into it. Seriously, .014 of a difference. Should I just sand it down to fit or take it back and Possibly wait for another one to come in. I have to go to the store for a socket anyways. Thoughts?
The pickup is an interference fit to the pump. It's supposed to deform as you install it so that it doesn't come loose. They are difficult to install and there is a tool to do it "right" but I've installed plenty just by being cautious with a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet.
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post #39 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 06:12 PM
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Is it metal? Try sticking it in the freezer to see if it shrinks a little.

94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 33in. Federal Couragia M/T's on Procomp Steelies, np231 swap, IRO Hack n Tap SYE, Carolina Driveshaft, 4.5 in. lift, RE front upper/rear lower ca's, RC front lowers, Ironman rear uppers, IRO 4.5 coils in rear, 3.5 and 2" bb (no isolators) in front, Bilstein 5100's, Clayton/JKS adj. track bars, KOR rad support and SS, Magnaflow/Flowmaster exhaust, clear corners, custom light bar w/ Hella 500's

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post #40 of 71 Old 09-11-2013, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm8881 View Post

The pickup is an interference fit to the pump. It's supposed to deform as you install it so that it doesn't come loose. They are difficult to install and there is a tool to do it "right" but I've installed plenty just by being cautious with a flat head screwdriver and rubber mallet.
I asked the store and they said that it shouldn't be that tight, but it should only take a single hit with the mallet at the end to seat the last lull bit. I didn't see anything about a tool to seat it right(cept a hammer)...

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post #41 of 71 Old 09-12-2013, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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So if I hit the crankshaft when taking out the bloomin rear seal...do I now need to replace the shaft as well??? (Small Nick and burr)

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post #42 of 71 Old 09-12-2013, 10:31 AM
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I wouldn't think a small nick to be a big deal, at least not one that would require a new crank. Just smooth it out as best as possible. Try to remove as little material as possible, you just need to get rid of the bur so you don't ruin your bearing.
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post #43 of 71 Old 09-13-2013, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
eagsc7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm8881 View Post
I wouldn't think a small nick to be a big deal, at least not one that would require a new crank. Just smooth it out as best as possible. Try to remove as little material as possible, you just need to get rid of the bur so you don't ruin your bearing.
I found out that my 3/8 socket extension fits real nice in one of the holes in the #1 and #6 pieces along the crankshaft. This allowed me to rotate the shaft enough for a really good inspection and removal of the one burr that I found.

It's amazing how much sandpaper I've gone thru making sure that all the old debris is off.

Today, I FINALLY got the oil pump and pickup screen to go together(Silicon lube FTW). Also, I got the rear main seal out, cleaned, and even the new one back in. I've gone thru a full roll of that really fine grit sandpaper that's sold by the welding and soldering stuff. To clean the mating surfaces of the oil pan, I sprayed some mixed water and dish soap along the outside edge of the engine, then cleaned it off with the sandpaper til nice and clean. Then I wiped it down with a clean rag.

As for the pan, it went to the carwash the other day and power washed and rinsed real good. Today, it also got the sandpaper and rubdown.

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post #44 of 71 Old 09-13-2013, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
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Almost done. Today after work, I got the Oil Pump and screen on with ONE learning lesson. 120 in-lbs of torque is NOT equal to 120 ft-lbs. I sheered the Long bolt, and overtorqued the short bolt. When the long bolt snapped, I had a mini panic thought of having to drill out and clean while I'm laying under the jeep. Luckily when I dropped the oil pump, there was a few threads worth that I could grab to pull it out. Got to ACE, and a couple mins later walked out with 2 new bolts. Luckily, I check EVERY TIME NOW!

So, today the Oil Pickup, screen and main seal done. I would have it all done, BUT I'm going to bed.

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post #45 of 71 Old 09-13-2013, 05:15 PM
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Hopefully thats the last snag in your "repair".
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