spark and fuel no start? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 56 Old 01-27-2013, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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1994 ZJ 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melk View Post
If everything else appears ok, that leaves the PCM.... have you cleaned the connectors and one of you hold them tight/wiggle them while you crank it?
And fuel pressure at 37 on rail well primed would if it could start it?

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post #32 of 56 Old 01-27-2013, 04:52 AM
melk
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Yes has a black plastic cover and 3 main plugs underneath. Hot em with some electrical spray cleaner.
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post #33 of 56 Old 01-27-2013, 08:12 PM
1slo_camaro
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hey dude so today i cant messing with my jeep and she fired up with the new motor. needs some fine tuning and some tinkering to get her back drivable again but the other motor would not start at all. so unfortunately i cant help out anything at all. because all my extrernal parts were swapped over. the only thing different was plugs and wires.... and if it was just plugs and wires i will be PISSED lol but i doubt that was the case. good luck with your hunting for an issue man.

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post #34 of 56 Old 01-28-2013, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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Originally Posted by 1slo_camaro View Post
hey dude so today i cant messing with my jeep and she fired up with the new motor. needs some fine tuning and some tinkering to get her back drivable again but the other motor would not start at all. so unfortunately i cant help out anything at all. because all my extrernal parts were swapped over. the only thing different was plugs and wires.... and if it was just plugs and wires i will be PISSED lol but i doubt that was the case. good luck with your hunting for an issue man.
Think I know what it is but idk for sure the horn went off 2 times when cranking so thinking bad wire or something for the alarm that's cock blocking me.
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post #35 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 01:33 AM
99WJ539918
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I saw your post in the WJ section about the problems you're having with your car. I'm not sure about the ZJ's, but a problem like this would have me replacing the CKPS. This is a common failure on the WJ 4.0L's. Just because you're getting spark doesn't mean the CKPS is good. If you're getting gas and proper spark I would look into the smaller items before your PCM. I would unplug the connections and make sure they're clean, but after that I'd look somewhere else. This is, of course, not to say that this isn't your problem. It could even be your battery (I would return the one you bought and buy the proper one). Other than that, I'd look more about the fuel, use a noid light (plugs into the injector harness and blinks when the injector is grounded by the PCM). Other than that you're gonna have to take it to someone who can hook your car up to a scan tool and check more in depth.

I almost forgot, any hard codes?
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post #36 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJ539918 View Post
I saw your post in the WJ section about the problems you're having with your car. I'm not sure about the ZJ's, but a problem like this would have me replacing the CKPS. This is a common failure on the WJ 4.0L's. Just because you're getting spark doesn't mean the CKPS is good. If you're getting gas and proper spark I would look into the smaller items before your PCM. I would unplug the connections and make sure they're clean, but after that I'd look somewhere else. This is, of course, not to say that this isn't your problem. It could even be your battery (I would return the one you bought and buy the proper one). Other than that, I'd look more about the fuel, use a noid light (plugs into the injector harness and blinks when the injector is grounded by the PCM). Other than that you're gonna have to take it to someone who can hook your car up to a scan tool and check more in depth.

I almost forgot, any hard codes?
I would return the Battery but no receipt I tried. No codes I tried multiple times. I thought the ckps would cut off spark never thought about that. I'll Probly end up taking it somewhere after taxes if it don't run.
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post #37 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 02:53 AM
99WJ539918
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A bad CKPS would most of the time cause a no spark, but it's not a definite. You can unplug the sensor and plug it back in, just to check it out.
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post #38 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 06:27 AM
Rich93ZJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrunndonex View Post
Think I know what it is but idk for sure the horn went off 2 times when cranking so thinking bad wire or something for the alarm that's cock blocking me.
Try locking then unlocking passenger door and hatch with the key. Are the lights flashing?
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post #39 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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Originally Posted by Rich93ZJ View Post

Try locking then unlocking passenger door and hatch with the key. Are the lights flashing?
No It's not the security system I wish it was though
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post #40 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJ539918 View Post
A bad CKPS would most of the time cause a no spark, but it's not a definite. You can unplug the sensor and plug it back in, just to check it out.
I'll go check it out today. I hope it's the ckps gahh
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post #41 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 03:27 PM
Rich93ZJ
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TPS can cause this condition also. What happens if you hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking? The TPS is simple to test.

Backprobe from center pin with positive and put neg to ground. Turn ignition to run (dont start). Voltage at idle position must read greater than 300mv and gradually increase to around 4.1 - 4.8 at WOT. If the voltage is inconsistent anytime during the test, your TPS is bad. It must start above 300mv and gradually go to 4.1 -4.8 when you move the throttle by hand. Test and report back. Also, any time you replace a sensor make sure you disconnect the battery.
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post #42 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich93ZJ View Post
TPS can cause this condition also. What happens if you hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking? The TPS is simple to test.

Backprobe from center pin with positive and put neg to ground. Turn ignition to run (dont start). Voltage at idle position must read greater than 300mv and gradually increase to around 4.1 - 4.8 at WOT. If the voltage is inconsistent anytime during the test, your TPS is bad. It must start above 300mv and gradually go to 4.1 -4.8 when you move the throttle by hand. Test and report back. Also, any time you replace a sensor make sure you disconnect the battery.
nothing changes when I press the gas. today I looked at the pcm very clean connections checked some wires then tried to start it. It sorta sputtered then I tried again and just cranked it wanted to start though maybe the battery is **** maybe I got a bad one which is rare I'll try jumping it when I look at the tps tomorrow
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post #43 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 10:26 PM
99WJ539918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xrunndonex View Post
nothing changes when I press the gas. today I looked at the pcm very clean connections checked some wires then tried to start it. It sorta sputtered then I tried again and just cranked it wanted to start though maybe the battery is **** maybe I got a bad one which is rare I'll try jumping it when I look at the tps tomorrow
So it ran for a second and then died? Take your valve cover off...
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post #44 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
xrunndonex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99WJ539918 View Post

So it ran for a second and then died? Take your valve cover off...
I'm not mechanically inclined but when I get the valve cover off looking for stuck valves or anything that looked ****ed up right?
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post #45 of 56 Old 02-06-2013, 10:40 PM
99WJ539918
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Yeah, have someone turn the engine (starter) with the valve cover off. See if everything moves.
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