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Unread 02-25-2012, 08:27 PM   #1
SethGCherokee
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Serpentine Belt Squeal

upon replacing my serpentine belt, it not squeals like a hyena when you turn it on, more so when its cold, wet, or if i turn the headlights on/ ac/ fan speed. It isn't a chirp. It is a constant frequency noise and will all of a sudden stop once its been running for a minute or so. If its still squealing and you give it gas it gets 10X worse! HELP! mechanics say they can't replicate the noise but it does it every morning.

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Unread 02-25-2012, 08:58 PM   #2
psychwarfare
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When did you replace it? Is it tensioned sufficiently? Have you tried cleaning it a bit? Gently with a wire brush is what I've heard recommended before...
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Unread 02-25-2012, 09:28 PM   #3
zjosh93
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If you just replaced the belt and it's squealing the most common problem is that it just isn't tensioned enough. The belt is slipping in the morning and stops once it has warmed up enough. Cheaper belts are much more prone to doing this. After that check to make sure that there isn't any crap filling up the grooves in the pulley's. An old belt can pack a bunch of rubber dust and dirt into the grooves. I like to use a hook pick to clean them out. You might also take off the belt and turn all the pulleys by hand to make sure something isn't going bad. Usually you would have noticed other problems by now if that was the case. You could also try washing your belt just in case something (antifreeze, oil, PS fluid, etc.) got on it.

FWIW I like to use the hook pick to clean the grooves on my belt and wash it with soapy water and a wire brush. Serpentine belts will pick up a surprising number of small rocks stuck in the grooves. The wire brush also roughens the surface a bit.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 07:37 AM   #4
melk
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Tighten'er down son.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 07:51 AM   #5
xxmikewalshxx
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Get a real belt. If everything is mechanicly sound, tensioner, idler, alt, AC etc, then you need a better belt. OE Belts are made from a very specific chemical formulation of EPDM rubber compounds. Only one aftermarket company makes this belt in the aftermarket, Bando. Gates and Dayco make OE belts but do not sell them in the aftermarket, Goodyear has no OE applications, there tires are nice but the belts are a joke. Cleaning, belt spray and the like are a waste of time, junk in the trunk fixes.... Bando is carried by distributors as a second line belt, AKA the "cheap" belt as oposed to Gates or Dayco, not sure why... If you cant find a local distributor, Amazon sells them. Please let me and your Mechanic know how you make out, I'm 100% certain on this if everything else is right. No, I don't work for them.........
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Unread 02-26-2012, 12:51 PM   #6
SethGCherokee
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I had it changed at my local Chevy Dealership, i'd go to a chrysler dealership mechanic but the only one around tries to convince me everything is broken and i need a new car. Took it in 50,000 miles ago and they told me my transmission was gonna go any moment and a new transmission would be 5 grand so they 'took the liberty' and went ahead to inspected it for trade in value. Would the belt brand be labeled on it somewhere? Im not exactly sure how to take off a belt. How might i know if its loose?

Thanks for all the advice!
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Unread 02-26-2012, 02:13 PM   #7
Oldfrog
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I've tried all the cheap-o belts, but the Gates is the one that seems to hold up the best on my 4.0.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 05:03 PM   #8
melk
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Seth, do you have any tools?

Wrench? Sockets? Hell, vise grips n duct tape will get ya farther than anything else. and don't forget a bfh!
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Unread 02-26-2012, 05:20 PM   #9
SethGCherokee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melk View Post
Seth, do you have any tools?

Wrench? Sockets? Hell, vise grips n duct tape will get ya farther than anything else. and don't forget a bfh!
Oh yeah, i have all that
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Unread 02-26-2012, 06:48 PM   #10
melk
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Then get to it man. Pull that little lever by your drivers side kick panel to pop the hood.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 06:59 PM   #11
Foundrydude
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The belt is on a spring loaded tensioner. First thing to do is relieve the tensioner pressure so you can remove the belt.

Be sure the tensioner operates smoothly and puts decent force on the belt in the operating position. Sometimes the spring loaded mechanism seizes up. Once you've worked it back n forth a few times to know it's tensioning the belt properly then it's time to upgrade the belt.

You should also spin all the idler and tensioner pulleys with the belt off to be sure there's no bad bearings

The cheap $25 belts sold at oreillys and advance are total junk and will cause problems on most vehicles. Rock auto is about the only place to buy a decent belt without spending $45.

Good luck
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Unread 02-26-2012, 07:12 PM   #12
Mickey_D
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[EDIT] bad information. Was thinking of an XJ 4.0
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Unread 02-26-2012, 09:00 PM   #13
hdrocknroll
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Can't believe no one mentioned this.
New belts will stretch, and some times need to be readjusted.
Twist the belt with your hand ,in the middle of the longest span,if you can twist it to 90 degrees but not past its tight
This is from 98 FSM
98serp-belt.jpg  
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Unread 02-26-2012, 09:10 PM   #14
elkski
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What is the best brand of belt... I bought one at ORielly's for I think 44$ and he said they were out of the top quality ones.
I think my squeak is from the crank moving forward in the engine and things inside the engine.. on my 93 5.2


PLus I didn't see where the OP said he had a 4.0l if its a 5.2 there is no way to tighten the belt.. but it is easy to replace using a 15mm end wrench... find the pulley nearest the battery but not the alternator and put the wrench on that bolt starting with the wrench several inches from the battery and push it towards the driver side the tension er will move and let you take the belt off of the nearest pulley.. the belt does not need to go between the fan and shroud and the routing placard is right there in front of you on top of the radiator.
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Unread 02-26-2012, 09:18 PM   #15
hdrocknroll
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The OP Jeep info says 4.0
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