Awesome!! I just finished doing this to my junkyard replacement. Mine came from the PO with no rear wiper arm, but the nut that held it on was on the threaded end of the shaft- rusted on, on it snapped the end off. I didn't much care since it didn't work anyway. I thought a junkyard replacement would be all I needed...until I installed it and all it did was go 'click'.
Sucker was froze up solid. Followed the directions and BAM! Working rear wiper!
I got the motor and arm for $20 bucks, vs the $90 for a rebuilt one.
My 2004 Gr. Cherokee had the rear wiper motor stop working, after working only when it seemed it wanted to. I found this post and followed the steps (mine is a little different motor) and there wasn't a real lot of rust in the shaft. Obviously, it was enough to cause an issue. I cleaned it out, greased it up good and rebuilt it and plugged the baby in and it worked!! The only problem I had was removing the solder. It wouldn't just release when heated up. I searched it online and found that I could use a desoldering braid (fine copper wire braided together). You just put solder gun on top of braid, heat to melt the original solder and pick up braid and gun at same time--orig. solder gets sucked up into braid! It's a pain, but it works. Also found out that should NOT use gun over 15 watts or take chance in doing damage to motherboard of motor. Cost to replace would have been $165, your way $15 for smaller solder gun!! Thanks!!!
Well, since I wasn't able to fix the old one, I just bought a new motor, arm and blade at Napa all for a painful $150. I gave them the old one for the core deposit back- they're gonna have a helluva time trying to fix that one.
Worked like charm. The shaft came out easy and it had very little visible markings on it. Thought maybe that my issue was different since everything looked good. Cleaned the shaft with steel wool, lubed it with Hoppe's Gun grease, only grease I had on hand, and put it back together and works as good as new.
Mine was slow when I bought the jeep - I gave it a "helping hand" when it got stuck until it would run slowly, but freely. Now I just run it for about ten minutes a day (wet or dry) and it seems to be back to normal. Suspect lack of use causes them to slow down, then sieze completely.
My problem isnt the rear wiper. I tried 2 motors. mine in my 5.9 and another reman one which i returned.. Turns out the motor works, the switch works as i tried mine in my 5.9, something between the switch and the motor is causing it to not work on my 4.0
I dunno what it is ?? Maybe its a grounding issue ?? The hatch glass window doesnt work either btw.
2013 6.2 V8 Camaro SS 9k miles
1998 5.9 V8 ZJ 180k miles
1998 4.0 I6 Laredo ZJ 227k miles
Excellent writeup. If the shaft is really stuck, instead of dumb hammering, give some heat to the housing with a small propane torch or hot air blower. Just a little is needed, because the aluminium housing and bronze bushings expand faster than the steel shaft. After heating it, dont mess up the plastic shaft cover at the outer end, because it gets really soft. Also use a hex nut to protect the threads, when hammering the end of the shaft. If using heat, very little force is needed to get it moving.
I have an XJ and although the process was a bit different (I had to drill out and tap 4 holes that hold a metal cover on), I have to say that this thread helped me save my seized motor. It works perfectly now.
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 2dr, 4.0, Auto, NP231 4x4
1980 MGB - 3.4V6, T5 transmission, Ford 8.8 posi.
1989 Dodge Daytona Shelby - t-tops, 5 speed, 2.2 intercooled turbo
1993 Eagle Talon, daily driver - 5 speed, no turbo but I installed a turbo head - FOR SALE
As many have said before "Thanks to the original poster for the fix and instructions. Works great." I just used this fix on my Jeep GC 1996.
A few points I would add for those about to dive in:
- Beware on hammering the bare-ended shaft as the end is soft and the threads will get bunged up. If this happens (likely!) one solution is to use the original nut as a thread chaser. You have to take it slow and steady (on and off and on and off, etc.) but this happened to me and I used the nut to successfully chase the threads back into workable condition.
- Scribe/scratch a locating mark on the yellow plastic gear but don't use a magic marker. When you're working with the yellow gear you can easily and inadvertently wipe the magic marker off thus loosing your locating mark when you go to insert the gear back into the housing.
- If at first your repair doesn't seem to work, cycle and reset the newly stuck wiper (by leaving the switch for the rear wiper on and open and close the rear hatch- it will go back to the starting position) a few times to get the wiper out and back to it's proper resting place. Mine didn't work initially probably because the new grease was interfering with the electrical contact patch. Once you reset a few times the contacts have rubbed thru the new grease and electrical conductivity has been restored.