[midfifty2]

Sorry if this thread is out there but I searched and couldn't find it.

I am looking into getting a larger long arm kit for my zj. Rusty's offers the 5.5" long arm kit and they said they could swap out coils and shocks to make it about a 7.5" kit.
IR0 sells the 7" long arm and the Premium 7" long arm kit.

I have a IRO 4.5" lift now and they didn't sell it with control arms and I ended up having to get Rusty's lower control arms to deal with death wobble so I'm hesitant to deal with IRO and Rusty's has a good rep because they featured the 5.5" lift on the show trucks.

I might also go with the 5.5" lift too I'm not sure at this point.. But regardless I would like some opinions either by looking at these kits or by personal experience as to which you think would be better for my money and overall performance!

Thanks

[Eldoradoman]

I don't have personal experience with either, but it seems IRO has a much better rep than Rusty's, particularly when it comes to customer service. I haven't heard of anyone on this forum using Rusty's long arm kit but the IRO one has gotten pretty good praise, especially for the bang-for-your-buck factor compared to Clayton's or TNT.

Originally Posted by midfifty2

Sorry if this thread is out there but I searched and couldn't find it.

I am looking into getting a larger long arm kit for my zj. Rusty's offers the 5.5" long arm kit and they said they could swap out coils and shocks to make it about a 7.5" kit.
IR0 sells the 7" long arm and the Premium 7" long arm kit.

I have a IRO 4.5" lift now and they didn't sell it with control arms and I ended up having to get Rusty's lower control arms to deal with death wobble so I'm hesitant to deal with IRO and Rusty's has a good rep because they featured the 5.5" lift on the show trucks.

I might also go with the 5.5" lift too I'm not sure at this point.. But regardless I would like some opinions either by looking at these kits or by personal experience as to which you think would be better for my money and overall performance!

Thanks

[WyoZJ]

IRO is stouter and higher clearance
Rustys is hit or miss with customer service. First time I ordered it was amazing. The next time it was a giant cluster ****.
The guys at IRO know what they're doing

[FortCollinsZJ]

In order of quality. IMO, Debate me if you want. I'm taking into account design as well as quality.

Clayons>TNT>RE>IRO>Rusty's>

[BigDaveZJ]

Why do you want to go to 7.5"? 5.5" is more than ample on a ZJ for any tire size that doesn't require major drivetrain upgrades.

[FortCollinsZJ]

BINGO! Dave, thanks for bringing that up, I tend to shy from telling folks not to go too high, IMO 7" is only needed if you are going to a tire size over 38ish, even then 6" is doable.

7" is just plain scary high.

[Darthteddy]

Ive looked at buying LAs a bunch of times. If youve got the cash, Go with TnT or Claytons. TnTs is pretty sick with the radius arms and belly skid. You can also add on their frame stiffeners and other skids to their kit. Their radius arms look like a pretty gnarly set up.

The 3 Link Critical Path kit from IRO is pretty sweet too.

Or buy a used welder and some steel and make your own LA kit.


****Edit***
Everyones Entitled to their opinion,

If it were Mine, Id go 7". If you want to have a low COG go under 7".

[Jones]

IRON ROCK OFF ROAD: ZJ 5.5" Critical Path Long Arm Kit

[FortCollinsZJ]

Originally Posted by Darthteddy

Ive looked at buying LAs a bunch of times. If youve got the cash, Go with TnT or Claytons. TnTs is pretty sick with the radius arms and belly skid. You can also add on their frame stiffeners and other skids to their kit. Their radius arms look like a pretty gnarly set up.

The 3 Link Critical Path kit from IRO is pretty sweet too.

Or buy a used welder and some steel and make your own LA kit.


And to big dave.. IMO, People are always saying why go bigger on lifts. Higher looks sweeter, and means even less triming. Why go just big enough to squeeze 35s when you could go big enough to make them look like pizza cutters. For me its never been about lifting to fit a certain size tire. Its just lifting as high as i can afford and see what tires I should get from there. If you know that you have the capability to get either 5.5 inches or 7 inches for pretty much the same price, why not go 7. Thats that much more clearance for your approach angle, departure angle, rockers, ect. 7inches is high on ZJs/WJs, But look at all the XJs that are waay higher then 7 inches.

This is the most udderly terrible advice I have read on JF to date in concern to lifting a ZJ.

First, you do realize claytons is a radious arm setup with unibody stiffeners aswell? Not just TNT?

Ok, now on to lifting VS triming, I think anyone who wheels a ZJ will agree, higher is NOT better for offroad, there exists such a thing as roll center. Lifting a ZJ over 6" puts that roll center so far above the axles, that a tire of great size is needed to counteract the roll center. Also, "why trim whan you can lift more!" That is a terrbile idea! Unless you are building a mall queen, the ability to trim and keep a low COG with a big tire is a MAJOR plus. How many PRO rock buggies have you ever seen with a belly pan of over 20-25" MAXIMUM! My jeep is 4.5" lifted and has a belly height of 19.5", and I don't have tires anywhere CLOSE to those of a rock crawler.

Please people, dont listen to that advice, low lifts and big tires are the best combination. You telling these people asking for advice, to lift the ZJ to the sky, is down right dangerous. Do you want your ZJ to "Look sweeter" or perform better while being safer at the same time?

Also, why do you call your deathtrap of a ZJ with a back hack and no tube work whatsoever a "buggy"?
D35 and a back hack = buggy now?

[bigbluezj94]

how big of a tire are you planning on running? You wont get any tire big enough to stuff under 7" springs that wont kill your dana35.haha 7" inches is too high. ive got 7" springs going on mine to fit 37s but im thinking its even going to be too much spring. I might end up looking for smaller ones although i might be okay with the full width axles and stability that way. As for which company, do some research, figure out your budget, determine your skills or other peoples skills available to you (welding and such) then buy accordingly. Everyone will tell you claytons is the best, but they are expensive and thats why.

[bigbluezj94]

Originally Posted by FortCollinsZJ

This is the most udderly terrible advice I have read on JF to date in concern to lifting a ZJ.

First, you do realize claytons is a radious arm setup with unibody stiffeners aswell? Not just TNT?

Ok, now on to lifting VS triming, I think anyone who wheels a ZJ will agree, higher is NOT better for offroad, there exists such a thing as roll center. Lifting a ZJ over 6" puts that roll center so far above the axles, that a tire of great size is needed to counteract the roll center. Also, "why trim whan you can lift more!" That is a terrbile idea! Unless you are building a mall queen, the ability to trim and keep a low COG with a big tire is a MAJOR plus. How many PRO rock buggies have you ever seen with a belly pan of over 20-25" MAXIMUM! My jeep is 4.5" lifted and has a belly height of 19.5", and I don't have tires anywhere CLOSE to those of a rock crawler.

Please people, dont listen to that advice, low lifts and big tires are the best combination. You telling these people asking for advice, to lift the ZJ to the sky, is down right dangerous. Do you want your ZJ to "Look sweeter" or perform better while being safer at the same time?

Also, why do you call your deathtrap of a ZJ with a back hack and no tube work whatsoever a "buggy"?
D35 and a back hack = buggy now?

i concur

[BigDaveZJ]

Originally Posted by Darthteddy

Ive looked at buying LAs a bunch of times. If youve got the cash, Go with TnT or Claytons. TnTs is pretty sick with the radius arms and belly skid. You can also add on their frame stiffeners and other skids to their kit. Their radius arms look like a pretty gnarly set up.

The 3 Link Critical Path kit from IRO is pretty sweet too.

Or buy a used welder and some steel and make your own LA kit.


****Edit***
Everyones Entitled to their opinion,

If it were Mine, Id go 7". If you want to have a low COG go under 7".

Owned by someone quoting you before you got to edit your post, lol.

I'm not really "old" and I was wheeling and wrenching on rigs when you were still playing with hot wheels and GI Joe, so keep that in mind here. Real life experience > reading about it on the internets.

Lifting it as high as you can and then going with the biggest tire that fits has so many flaws it's not even funny. 8" of lift, 40's, and a D35. That's a recipe for success right there . . . .

If I can fit 35's at 4.5" of lift (which is what I run), I can keep my COG lower than someone at 7" of lift and 35's. You know why that's better? Cuz rolling sucks. If you wheeled or had any real experience wheeling or wrenching you would know this. And I'm talking SUCCESSFUL wrenching, not creating that abomination of a death trap you've got. I don't give a damn how cool my rig looks, or how many middle school chicks I can pick up in it, I give a damn about well and reliably it performs on the trail. Do you see flatbillers in their "obviously compensating for something" 3/4 ton trucks with 832" of lift and 52" tires competing in XRRA, WeROC, etc? No, you see rigs with very low COG's and big tires, because it flat out works.

Take a look at Shannon Campbell's KOH rig: DSC_0304_2.jpg

His rocker panel height is not that different from that on my ZJ. And he flew through the Hammers with it. If you're out at Pendleton, you're not that far away from the Hammers. Go check out the next KOH race. You'll see what it takes to really build a rig that works.

[FPKites]

Easy guys, let's keep the discussion productive please.

[FortCollinsZJ]

Sorry, Jimbo, got carried away.

Back to the lesson at hand. If I were to buy another out of the box kit and go play on the rocksm Rusty's would not be in my top picks, I have heard many stories of parts breaking from him. IRO on the other hand has a good history, allbeit a short history. So of the two brands you asked of, IRO wins hands down.

BUT that being said, If I were to have an ultimate choice, custom built would be my choice. I really strongly believe building something yourself is the way to go at it. I didn't know the first thing about a suspension system when I bought my Claytons, I had to have a freind wed it in, and I was stoked for a smooth ride and better flex, but as time went by, as it seems to always do, I aquired a welder, some hand tools, a small wealth of knowledge, and a tan from being in the light of my computer screen reading too much, . I then became able to build my own rear suepnsion, tailored to my wants and needs, for a fraction of the cost of a bought kit.

[spife7980]

Originally Posted by BigDaveZJ

Take a look at Shannon Campbell's KOH rig: DSC_0304_2.jpg

That is a bad *** rig. just sayin.


Im going with IRO just because it seems like a superior product from what i can tell. i ordered my 5.5" kit earlier this week. it is being delayed shipping due to back order but with a small shop like that i can completely understand given that ive seen like 6 people on here in the past 3 days order alone. they are getting alot of business but you know what? i dont mind because they went out of their way to tell me that without my even having seen the email saying i bought it. so far their customer service has been excellent. that alone is enough to have me recommend them.

and your previous bad experience isnt really IROs problem. you didnt have to go to rustys for the control arms. IRO sells them but you opted for the kit without arms. seems like your own fault there and not IROs.