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Unread 07-24-2007, 06:34 PM   #1
ZJenvy
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1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 295
Rusty's rustys rusty 5.5 long arms LA

Tried to make the title searchable, forgive its annoyingness.

I rolled the dice and purchased rustys long arms....

The reasons I chose rusty's are:
1. I'm cheap, and so is the kit (affordably speaking)
2. Having welded for years, I prefer the bolt in mounts, and can always weld it as well.
3. Rubber joints - I drive the jeep on long trips, and assumed it would be a quieter kit, although the joints are quiet, the threaded control arms are not, jam nuts would fix this.

The experience:
Nothing unexpected, I wouldn't say the customer service or sales was outstanding, but my experience dealing with them over a couple phone calls deffinatly wasn't a bad one. I had a few questions after ordering, all were answered.

The shipping:
Shipped fast, arrived quick, packages came in across a three day span. Packaged INCREADIBLY well, I was very impressed. It came complete except for the sandwhich plates and bolts for the crossmember mount. I called and explained I didn't receive the plates, they said they'd get them out. The delivery date is this friday, I'm assuming everything is correct and the problem is resolved.

The kit:
I chose the high clearance kit, there is a downfall to this, the kink in the arm will contact the frame rail where the old mounts were sooner than the straight arm kit, failsafe bumpstop? It also does less to protect the driveshaft from vehicle wide obstacles like a log crossings. There is no rear swaybar endlinks, they recommend removal of the bar. The arms are BEEF, the rest is solid too.

The install:
It went as expected, took a few nights and a big chunk of saturday. I had to modify my front drop trackbar mount to clear a factory bolt, instead of drilling a hole to go around the bolt, I drilled a smaller hole and rethreaded the bolt through it for an additional mounting point. Others have experienced this, and my impression from Rustys is it happens on V8s. I also had to modify my crossmember because the mounting locations are wider than the ones predrilled, others have experienced this as well, it seems to be related to the 98 model year. The instructions are fine except a little time could be saved identifying which is upper and which is lower for the rear, however once trying a mockup you can figure it out as the uppers end link is smaller. I wouldn't say it was a particularly hard, long, or bad install. I imagine any long arm install would have its own complications, in perspective ripping out your entire suspension is a fairly big project. One thing that would be nice to be listed when ordering, is the fact you cannot retain your factory muffler in its factory location.
The draglink center balljoint hits the bottom of the passenger side JKS quick disconnect. Rusty's solution is to bend the endlink mounting bracket outward 20°, I'll give that a try, last resort is welding on extended bottom brackets.

The drive:
First thing is the recommended starting lengths for the control arms were nowhere near close for pinion angles on my vehicle. My first try on adjusting the rear came out -1° which is just about perfect. The front however I'm still adjusting to get rid of vibes. There are a few rattles on rougher surfaces or big steering wheel inputs from the threaded control arms. There is NO bump steer, they did well at matching the trackbar and drag link angle.

Flex:
The rear flexes more than the front.


Conclusion:
YAY, I have long arms and 33's are in the mail!


Last edited by ZJenvy; 07-27-2007 at 09:10 AM..
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Unread 07-24-2007, 06:53 PM   #2
thebgkoolio
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Gainesville, Virginia
Posts: 229
i often wondered about that kit over others. but because im cheap too, when i do move up to long arms (not for a long time lol) i'll probably go with rustys just because i like thier products so much. so far almost everything i've done on my jeep has come from them.
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94 zj -Rustys Engine Skid-Rustys T-Case Crossmember-Tom Woods Front Driveshaft-Flowmaster 50 Series Exhaust-IRO 3.5" F>R with adjustable track bars-31x10.5x15 kumho a/t on 15x8 powdercoated black steel wheels.
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Unread 07-24-2007, 06:57 PM   #3
hckypro19ja
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Location: Kirtland AFB, New Mexico
Posts: 447
ill be the first to say it......no pics, no longarms
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Jason
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Quadratrac, 5.2 V8, UC skids and tow package, 32 inch bfg m/t on procomp steelies, flowmaster 40 series, Rancho ss, skyjacker 3" lift, teraflex adjustable trackbar, zactal roof rack
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Unread 07-24-2007, 07:38 PM   #4
jp88
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: North Carolina
Posts: 109
This thread is WORTHLESS without pics!!!!!
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96 zj 5.2l v8 stock
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Unread 07-24-2007, 07:53 PM   #5
PR1AWRet
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1995 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Diego/Imperial Beach
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Since I was going to PM you with some picts from Sunday, here they are here instead. The front does flex quite well and also the back. I agree with you on the shocks since I went to 35's. They could be better. I had the same reasons you did for going with Rusty's. I haven't had a problem with the front hitting the unibody frame rail yet. By that time the tire is really stuffed in the front.



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Unread 07-24-2007, 10:24 PM   #6
ZJenvy
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Looks great locked98gc!

At about 5-6" of bumpstops frame contact is a non issue. (Or huge tires)

For the rest of you, no pics till the 33's are on, right now it looks redonkulous on the stock wheels and tires.
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Unread 07-25-2007, 11:46 AM   #7
ZJenvy
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Locked98GC:

Did you do anything with either of your driveshafts?
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Unread 07-25-2007, 12:46 PM   #8
PR1AWRet
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Both are stock at the moment and no vibes when I had the D35 in. Slight vibes from the rear DS @70 mph since I put the 8.8 in. Debating to put the Tom Woods SYE or wait untill I get an Atlas in and D60 front.
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Unread 07-26-2007, 12:43 AM   #9
ZJenvy
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Well today I made my 5th complete turn on the front upper control arms to set the pinion angle and I'm still -3° to the driveshaft, tomorrow I'll get it to 0° once and foreall. The suggested lenghts in my case were way out on the front and not too bad on the rear. However at full axle droop my centerlink on the draglink hits the JKS axle pin dead center, there's no "Whacking" it out of the way enough for that. This I don't think is any fault of the kit, only the geometry of a 5.5" lift, Y link steering, and JKS discos.
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