I was just wondering overall what everyone thought about Rusty's Long arm kit - specifically I am looking to get some input from people currently running it - I ordered one yesterday and would like to know some thoughts on the matter. As a background on the subject my upper rear control arm bushings ripped off the frame (again). SO.... I decided on long arm kit that can be put on by garage mechanics and is somewhat affordable. I have no experiance welding and the brackets were welded back on last time by a little mexican guy (great welder by the way...) that only knew where to weld if I pointed to it. (Didn't speak a spit of english) So that right there eliminated any kit that required welding. And as for taking the kit to someone to install it? I'd rather do my own dental work than have someone touch my jeep. So even though I have had mixed results dealing with Rusty, Rusty's Bolt on Long arm kit it was. Your thoughts and experiances please?
The kit come with everything you need. Dropped pitman arm, dropped track bar fron/rear, extended braided steel brake lines, etc. When I got it lifted with the stock D35 I had no vib issues with the stock drive shafts. So far I haven't had any problems. Its still tight and dosent squeak or rattle. Here is a post for my installation.
There are a few guys around here that have Rustys kit. From what I read the liked it. The instructions were not the clearest from what I remember. But I dont have long arms so hopefully someone with Rustys will speak up
EDIT Thats the guy I was thinking of!! LOL thats kind of weird
Locked98GC - great post - just what I was looking for (strange - it was a year ago yesterday you posted it) My kit should be here tomorrow. I will be combining Rusty's 5.5 inch front coils with 3.5" Rubicon Express front coils for the rear with Rubicon Front and rear track bars and Mono tube shocks. So we will see how it all works its self out. Thanks again for the info - by the way - I just talked to Rusty and he said he was not aware of any problems with the width of the transmission crossmember. So hopefully I will not have that problem!
Ive been running mine for quite some time and have had no problems with it even with a 2in spacer. Like stated before i had to modify the cross memeber since i have a 98, also like stated before it does not come with the clearest directions in the world. My biggest problem was drillin the 1in wholes by the tc. i ended up havin to borrow a friends angle drill to do it but other than that its a simple install. I have rustys T-case skid and hevint figured out how to mount it with the cross memeber. I had DW pre lift and it went away once the new lift was on. The arms and brakcet are really beefy and have used and abused them many times. I slammed the jeep down on some rocks and the control arms took all the force and only had a lil nick in the paint. Aslo i heard the shocks that they come with arent the best but i had a set from the first lift i had on and they are 33in long and can max them out easily so there is plenty of flex. If you have any other questions just shoot me a pm im on regularly
__________________ 1998 Zj, 4.0, 242(231/300 doubler in the process), HP60, shaved 14B, 5.38s, locked F&R, full hydro, Rusty's LA with 7in springs and ACOS, bilstein 5125 shocks, jks bar pin eliminators, jks upper shock conversions, no rear sway bar, 44in gumbos, jks discos, walmart ligh bar, cobra cd, kor radiator support, rhino lined interior, homemade winch mount, 9k winch
IRO 4.5" Lift on Kumho 31" MT
IRO frnt adj. track bar w/ mount
Bilstein 5150 shocks
JKS Quick Disconnects
JCR 1 Ton steering
Addco Front Sway bar
K&N air filter
2 Pro Comp 2 KC lights on KOR light bar
Coleman roof rack
How do the unibody framerails hold up to having a bolt-on system through them? Do they use crush sleeves on the rear control arm brackets? I was wondering if the "egg-shape" after a while? Everybody says you have to weld any kind of frame stiffener or control arm brackets. How do bolts hold up?
Lurking and asking lots and lots of questions..........
l_---l_l__l----( )jeep( )
Rusty's uses a long thick tube spacer to go through the frame rail so that when you tighten the bolts on the brackets it doesn't crush the frame. These seem to work pretty well. The most challenging part of the install was to get the holes to line up right on both sides. We used a hole saw not a drill bit and it work a lot better and cheeper.